It was a built MS3 Basic from Rev, Stefanst. I have no ability to do that.
It also worked perfect with a '94 engine prior to this TSE-built block with VVT head install, but electrically everything appears to check out. |
I can send you my stim. PM me if you want it.
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Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 1144339)
Composite log is enclosed
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1144576)
This composite log shows poor crank signal. You need to check your crank sensor / trigger wheel gap, trigger wheel orientation, wiring between ECU and sensor, etc.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1144577)
ACTUALLY, I retract the previous statement. The crank signal LOOKS LIKE A CAM SIGNAL when zoomed in. You wired crank and cam backwards.
Thanks Ben, so it was with my wiring after all. :facepalm: Thank you again, I'll try it this Friday! |
4 Attachment(s)
Okay, I have great news!
I am getting a true rpm signal now, and everything else checks out. I have bad news, but I'm down to one last thing starting the car. The rpm signal seems to "conk" out in time to a noise coming from the steering column/dash, so it gets true signal, goes to 0, true signal, goes to 0, etc. as you can see in the provided logs. Major thanks go to Ben for pointing out the reversal of the cam and crank - but what is the source of this last problem? Enclosed are logs, both standard and composite, of this. |
Something looks odd with your crank signal. It should drop back to 0 right away (I think). Not stay up at 1 as yours seems to do on occasion.
Try and adjust the pot? |
Originally Posted by stefanst
(Post 1145824)
Something looks odd with your crank signal. It should drop back to 0 right away (I think). Not stay up at 1 as yours seems to do on occasion.
Try and adjust the pot? Is messing with it really the best solution in this case? I mean, if it's a problem with the crank signal, shouldn't I be trying to adjust the crank sensor first? |
Any chance the crank trigger wheel is not correctly installed? The crank and cam signals are phased too much apart. You also need to switch from falling edge to rising edge when switching from 4G63 to Miata 99-05 mode.
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Right now, it's a stock crank trigger wheel on a stock crank pulley that should be untouched, Rev.
Is there anything that can be incorrectly installed in that case? Could it be my crank sensor installation? Thank you. |
Then have a look at the setting I said above. Change the ignition input capture to rising edge.
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2 Attachment(s)
Comrades! Great News!
Everything is reading fine. I'm not getting it to fire up, but RPM is clearly reading correctly now! Anything that I have left out with a stock VVT setup swap to a '91 NA in my msq, or is it a problem with my wiring? Enclosed are logs of the attempts to start. Thank you! |
Have you rewired your injectors for full sequential injection? If not, revert back to semi-sequential.
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The injectors are wired for full sequential, and are unchanged from the previous engine where they ran perfectly. Does anything need to be changed in this case?
The ignition has been changed from full sequential to wasted spark and went from toyota COPs to the stock VVT COPs. Do I need to change anything further in this case? Thanks Rev. |
Are the coils wired correctly? Test with output test mode.
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Will do right now.
Thank you. |
I'm seeing no spark.
Injectors work fine, fuel pump is great, spark is no bueno in test mode. |
Now THAT is weird.
Only two injectors, A and B, will fire. Is this something in my settings Rev? |
Double checked coils. They are wired properly according to https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...writeup-12704/ and Mostly MIATA: 1999 to 2001 VVT Engine Swap Ignition - the only place I deviated from the instructions given was an additional ground, but I fail to see how that would change things.
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Got everything working after some diagnosis and the people in this thread last Sunday.
It ran awesomely. That is all. /thread |
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