ms3x na 1.6 wont start
 

car wont start. on stock ecu it does just fine. redid timing so it's good to go. ngk wires and plugs. gm ait, begi intercooler kit installed getting ready to put on the turbo but i want to make sure i can get it running before i slap the rest on. built the ms3x following trubokitty and their instructions on how to replace it with gm ait and jump the fuel on the afm connectot. bmw vtps sensor is being used. i have wideband and boost gauge from innovative hooked up.
logs are cranking but no start. car has fuel and wants to start so im assuming it has spark.
please help,
thank you!

edit: admin, if this in the wrong area...
please feel free to move and update me where its at.

tune
 

this is the base tune

car starts now running lean as f

Update
 

So a local miata owner and self tuner was giving me advice and we ended up checking my wideband.
TS was reading 22.2 and mtxl wideband was displaying 22.4.
lean as fuck but car starts every time and idles like hell. Weird part is that when I removed the wideband sensor.... it was black, like it was running rich. Not white, not grey... but black as coal.
anyhow,
so ended up recalibrating the wideband.
Removed the sensor, disconnected it, turned key to ON, er2 code, then key off, connected the sensor, key on while sensor was in the open air, then calibrated and set at 22.4 afr.
the normal stuff. Then with a multimeter, I connected it to the stock o2 wiring (I cut off oem and connected wideband to the 1 wire like on carpassionchannel on YouTube).
and positive connection on 80amp main fuse. Read 7.21.
Mtxl is supposed to read 0V= 7.35afr; 5V= 22.39.
im not understanding where the extra 2.21volts are coming from.
the ground for wideband is at back of the head and 12v is at the ignition wiring under the steering wheel column. White connection is at a light source when I turn the lights on and the yellow is connected for the wideband input.
both boost and wideband share the same ground and 12v.
unsure if that would fuck it up but boost gauge reads just fine.

re-calibrate it so instead of 0v = 7.35, make it 0.22v = 7.35 -- see if that gets it back in agreement.

Thank you brain,

i also called them them this morning and customer services was rude but they said I can make the narrow band output (brown wire) to a wideband via the innovative software.
If the min voltage is 0.22= 7.35 then what about max? Should I put it as 7.21 as 23.39?

@Braineack; its still showing 22.4 but the MS says 17.70 when the second voltage is 7.21. fs the second voltage is at 5.0- the gauge is 22.4 and MS is 22.30.
i have a mac so its a tad bit difficult getting into innovatives gauge and reprogramming it or having the narrow band output give me wideband instead of narrow.

also, i removed the wideband sensor and it showed really black so im assuming either the sensor, gauge or both are bad. my assumptions.

so i ended up checking it wrong using the multimeter. im not a genious.
i checked it using the ground not the positive on the yellow wire.
i rechecked the wiring and soldering off both expansion board and main board. all was normal. i ended up moving the 4U from the more open on the board for the plug n play connector to the closer one to the 90* bend. hoping that will do any difference. anyhow, so the wideband was reading fine and i also made both wires (brown and yellow) wideband via LM programmer. i also checked that it was set at 5V. now im questioning myself.. has the car really been running at 22.4 afr?!

i rechedked all the MS3x to bob and main and everything was lining up to trubokitty.com's specs.
afr's still peg out at 22.4.
i have thrown fuel at it via fuel ve table, more like 80- 150 more of the numbers. it richens up but the car dies. richens up to maybe mid 18's and jumps around to 21's. so its like its having a stroke. up down faster than a girl taking her thong off at prom night.
car starts everytime now with some pumoing 30-60% of throttle. if i plug in the oem ecu, starts up 1st time and runs smoother than a baby's butt.

i loaded up the 90-93 tune off trubokitty and adjusted the afr tables to braineack's post a while back.
still runs like crap and feels like its running on 2 or 3 cylinders.

autotune was giving me o2 calibrating but never stopped and then now its giving me 02 out of range.
i adjusted the ranges max out at 23.5. still nothing form autotune.

screen shots

22.4% oxygen is what's in the atmosphere which means you did not have a combustion cycle. Since the engine is running I think you can assume the o2 readings are incorrect. About the leanest an engine will "run" is 18 AFR.

If the MTXL came with the same sensor as delivered with my Innovate LC2 I would wager it is not a legitimate Bosch 17025 and it is no good after a couple of initial runs. I got two of the Innovate sensors before buying a known Bosch sensor and all my troubles went away. What was happening to me was it would start up reading correctly and after a short drive start going slowly lean until it was just stuck on 22 AFR.

my base ve and idle ve tables aren't setup to run include AFR in the fueling algorithm -- so that may put you fueling off.


as far as your AFR logs... the sensor is still in warmup mode in both those logs, and the car stopped running before it finally started metering, so it's displaying 22.4% oxygen.


what i would do it start looking at your MAP sensor... did you forget to plug your vacuum line in?

vacuum line is plugged in to the MAF on the MS, its also t'd off to the innovative boost gauge. thats about 8 inches of vac line then the sensor., the wideband never stopped reading 22.4 unless i dumped a ridiculous amount of fuel onto it and then it bogs down and dies iunstantly. still mid 18's to 20's afr's.. im scared to continue idling it due to its constant 22.4 afr's.

rechecked maf input to MS and its in there with no wiggle room.
1st log is cranking until wideband was done heating up and still cranked it some.
2nd log i adjusted the base ve and idle ve to not include afr targets. dies then crank died then cranked then started and rough as fuck idle and afr's still kicking 22.4
and tune itself is attached.
thanks for the advice Brainneack.

okay, not firing on cylinder 1.
checked it with a timing light.
2 3 and 4 are firing except #1.
on the stock ecu it fires and i think it may be going out. every now and then it flickers on stock ecu

use output test mode and figure out if its a coil or injector, you have a 1.6l so if #2 and #4 are also working, then the MS is working properly.

okay will do. looking on google on how to.

uh: https://www.ampefi.com/wp-content/up...ate_manual.pdf pg 106

Test complete. spark plugs removed from 1 and 4, conducted the test, and success! #1 was filled with gas and black by unburnt fuel. so i cleaned it and switched the plugs 1 on 4. 2/4 testing just fine. couldn't test injectors for some odd reason. it had the start greyed out but the stop button was just fine.