MSPNP v3.57 Upgrade Help to MS2
 

So I recently bought a MSPNP v3.57 for my 94.

Its been great and I got the car all tuned up, but I went ahead and bought the MS2 daughterboard to make better use of my AC. I have read multiple threads in which many state completely different approaches other then replacing the board to upgrade. These are my goals.

I essentially want to continue to use my current set up.(on my MS1 board) with the addition of the idle up feature for my AC. From what I know the MSPNP I bought used on here has not been modified by anyone other the DIYAutotune. Everything works as it sits with MS1. I just want to upgrade to have better use of my AC. Attached is a picture of the jumpers if it helps at all. I have not touched anything other than opening the case. I want to do this right and not fuck up an already decent set up. I am pretty good a soldering I just dont want to put the wrong jumper on the wrong spot.

Any comments or better yet help is always appreciated.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370635753

So I went ahead and took some initiative and jumped the s12C with js9 and removed the cap off of the mapdaddy. This is preety much what I am sure off. The rest I have no idea what it could be wired for or if some of the jumpers need to be relocated or if I even have any extra features installed.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370652953

Bump can someone please help me I have tried contacting DIY Autotune a couplr days ago and still no response. I just went out to crank it and no start.

:cry:Sitting here in a room alone and cold looking and searching for answers with no help at all.

Did you buy the MS2 card from DIY?

Yeah. I found a post from a while back that I will post later today of a guy who opened his ms2 he bought from diyat and he has pictures and written the layout of the jumpers. I tried using the wikidot but it seems rather bare when it comes to info. I read the manual too and looked at other post but I'm sorry even though the 3.0 and 3.57 boards are very similar there are areas that are very confusing when comparing the two.

Calling for MS Gurus - Help with MS2 SMD v3.57 installation - Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression. Ok so I have done all the wiring similar to this guy and still nothing. I am going to play with the fuel settings as I may be too lean but harware wise I have updated my megasquirt similar to his

Well I keep getting denied when uplading for some reason but here is the updated progress on what I have done

Here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kg7s75feflv9c8w/IMAG0147.jpg

and here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gu40ljpj67u2djn/IMAG0148.jpg

I noticed that I am missing the transistor that go on q16. Which happens to be VB921 dedicated coil driver chip. So I am thinking I need that soldered in and i might have some luck and gets this fucker started.

EDIT: Found this Bosch BIP373 Coil Driver Mod Kit DIYAutoTune.com going to probably go ahead and get it and I am hoping it will fix my problems.

that's not the issue. The crank and cam inputs (pins 24 & 25) need to have the polarity reversed when on ms2 from ms1, did you do this yet?

also, can you use something other than dropbox for your pics? that's not really the correct useage for it and they dont show.

I've been on vacation the past couple days, and it looks like Ben and Russ were pretty slammed. I just emailed you back a list of jumper changes. Note that it doesn't include the A/C idle up feature on the GSlender or 3.3.x code; we haven't tested these on a Gen 1 MSPNP.

Fixed sorry about that

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370886367

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370885312

And

I am not sure the best approach to switch the polarity of pins 24 and 25 when my DB 37 is integrated into the board and then into the Plug and play for the harness.

I received an email from Matt with some assistance. I am going to go ahead and when I get home follow this spreadsheet and see what I get.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370889968

Thanks Matt,

I appreciate it, I am going to try this when I get home tonight. At this point I just want the car running on MS2 and then I can see about the Gslender implementation. I updated the firmware to 3.2.1 so it can correlate to the base tune on the website. I figure I will keep it as bland as possible and get it to start first.

Also when you say JP you mean J1 on row 16 of the google doc?

So this is where I am at all my gauges seem to be working. Still no start here is pictures of my wiring that Matt sent me. Ignore the yellow I ran out of red wire. I am also attaching my first attempt at data logging and the .msq file I loaded from Diy's website.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370908496

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370908496

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370908496

JP1 is the 3 pin header next to the DB37; was that set correctly? You don't seem to be getting RPM.

Yes Sir. JP1 Next to DB37 jumped 1 &2

I put in the stock MAF and ECU and started it up to burn all the extra gas from all the FAIL. I then unplugged the coils and re flashed the ecu firmware and it flashed just fine. I burned the base map again and still no start still no tach signal. I still need help on wither or not to reverse the polarity of pins 24 and 25 and if so how. I have been reading and reading and still nothing on how to approach this on a v3.57 board. Trying to get this car started has been my LIFE lately and the Mrs is probably going to want a divorce after LOL. Once I get it to run I am going to do a write up for v3.57 MS1 users upgrading to MS2.

what msq are you loading?

The MSPNP2 94 1.8 base tune attached on my reply on #15 or at this link.

MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

double check your jumpers to this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370971641


and you adjusted the two pots?

I double checked my jumpers and it looks exactly the same.

Yes I readjusted them one more time for safe measure still no start.

take a COMPOSITE log during cranking now. (under diagnostics tab.)

Ok I will do and post results when I get home in a couple hrs.

Composite log attached. Thanks for all your help guys.

no crank signal.

I have no idea what to do at this point I read online the pots may need adjustment but it doesnt seem to help at all still no signal.

EDIT Also I was never able to feel the "click in the pots" like everyone mentions

Is 5 and 6 suppose to have volts. I took my multimeter and I was getting volts on everything on J1 except 5 and 6.

it must have been your adjustment of the pots.

the crank signal comes in pin24, which is tachin. This goes to the JP1 jumper and that should be on 1-2, that should have been changed from 2-3. Then the signal goes through the VR conditioner circuit and those adjustment pots, and then out to J1 through 5-6 which sends the signal to the CPU. This should have been moved from 1-2. Right?

you need to spin both 6 turns CCW, then turn the bottom one, r56, back two or 3 turns clockwise.

Yep. J1 was moved to 5-6 from 1-2. I should have got a stimulator :facepalm:

I think I may try and see if I can try and measure with a multimeter any signal on 5-6 so ideally I can see if the pots are allowing signal through. Ill be back with results.

You'd have a tough time plugging a stimulator into the MSPNP.

You can measure the top of R54, you want to see around 2.5-3v when turning R56 back Clockwise.

Sweet so I was able to dial in the pots with the multimeter(so I think). Actually if anyone knew the exact v's on both that would be sweet but nonetheless the pots are working. I still have no crank signal and 5-6 shows nothing as far as v's or analog resistance.

R52 has been turned CCW at least 6 turns?

Yes sir. I turned R52 six turns which removed all signal on the multimeter. R56 has about 2v when roated CW two turns.

get it closer to 3v, then see if you get the crank signal on the composite log. Cause that's the only thing holding you up, the rest of the jumpers are unrelated and youre getting the cam signal.

Why..?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371046462

you can do that, I typically will just use wire with the correct female contacts to bring in power, ground, crank trigger and the second trigger to sync on a DIYPNP or MSPNP.

Still no crank signal. I tried it at 3v, 3.5v, 4v, 4.5v, and 5v. Still nothing. Something else in the circuit has to be wrong. luckily I have been using a gel cell optima battery out of my truck or the battery would be dead by now.

There's not much to it:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371052105

Pin 24 (the crank input) is Tachin.

that goes through the VR circuit and out to IRQ-1 (cpu), so the only thing to it is the two jumpers and the adjustment of the pots.

The JP1 2-3 jumper and J1 1-2 jumper should have been severed, else that would cause issue.

Could there be any resistance elsewhere that may need to be changed? Maybe a different ohm resister or something?

no. It's possible you'd want to remove r57, but that's something to ask DIY.

Worse comes to worse, I could tell you how to mod the opto-isolator circuit to be invertered, but the VR should work. I use on all my 90-05 builds.

Well I put the stock ecu and MAF sensor back in to try and start it to burn the extra gas again and charge the battery back up. The car would Not start. I checked everything and reset the stock ecu and it appears some how my coil packs are fried. Each time I updated the firmware I un plugged the coil so I dont know how in the heck they fried. I surely dont think the MS could have fried them. I am interested in going cop put really dont want to mess with wiring them up for my car. Shit this freakin sucks.

it's probable that your MS1 MSQ the spark output is set to normal and the MS2 MSQ it's set to inverted, or vice versa. This will fry coils. That's why you gotta be stupid extra careful when burning random maps, as your MSPNP, even with the ms2, shares little in common with a DIYPNP.

Yep thats probably what happened to me. So the msq that is on diy site says (Going High) inverted is this correct for my type of build. I did switch it one time to (Going Low) Normal because I thought it might have been the reason for my no start. Either way I fried the suckers cause i am getting a code 1 CEL on the stock ecu. I just dont want to buy replacements and fry them again. Too expensive to replace. I wish I knew some one that could sell me a set of COP already wired for a 94. I looked over the instructions posted briefly but I am afraid Ill f up. I replaced stock coils before on the 91 I had so I know I could do that but 94/95 like oem coils are ridiculously over priced. The COP kit on Trackspeed is expensive too. Either way I will need new coils just dont want to burn through another set with the wrong ignition settings.

Find a used set. I sold three stock coils from a 90-93 for $30 each set.

Hey Brain so I decided to go ahead and upgrade to COP, I figure with how cheap they are to replace in the long run they will out live the rare 94 to early 95 factory coils. I was reading your diy and it looks pretty straight forward. Do you think you may be able to help me with a proper base map. I understand the dwell settings for the COP my main concern is that I dont fry the COP from the wrong spark output settings for my specific ECU. I could send you some beer money or something for all your help.

So I got a used coil from a member on here and it work fine on the stock ecu. I confirmed my base tune with Matt and still no crank signal.

Did you ever get this working? I've got a gen 1 mspnp that I'm thinking about upgrading to ms2 as I have a spare daughter board sitting here, but the car runs well on the old Motorola processor.
I'd hate to fall into the same trap and fry my 94's coils.....again. Not cheap!

Don't do it I ended up sending mine to diyautotune and they still couldn't upgrade it. Not worth the hassle just keep ms1 or sell it and upgrade to ms2. The only way to upgrade is with a diypnp. At least that's what diyautotune led me to believe.

Man that sucks, oh well

Sorry you had to be the guinea pig for this but at least it will help others out.

So I take it you went with a diypnp route using MS2?

Yep best decision ever made. Honestly I would never buy a MSPNP enver again. 1) it cost more 2) I like being able to easily modify the board. 3) Brain helped me out a lot with the v1.5b board all of his write ups for the most part apply to that board or the 3.0. 4) Surface mount parts are a major pain.

I definitely agree about the ease for expansion on the DIY units vs the pnp.

Having built several 2.2 ms1's and a couple of ms3's I can relate to that. The only reason I ended up with this mspnp is the fact that I got it just before the mspnp2's came out and it had a dying mapdaddy on it. So $250 bucks and a spare sensor from a previous 2.2 ms1 later I had a cheap standalone.
Just a shame it is limited, but then again so is my clutch currently :)