My MS is almost in
 

I started the install today. I installed the EBC and I jumpered the fuel pump. I hooked up my LC-1 and moved its grounds to the harness. I built the IAT harness, but didn't install it because my TB pipe is still being welded up.

I figure hell, try and fire it up. I crank, nothing. I thought maybe it needs the IAT to run, so I plug it in. Crank, nothing. I'm thinking I messed something up, after a good 15 minutes of searching I discover......I didn't hook up the vacuum line for the MAP sensor. I felt really dumb, I was so excited to ditch the AFM that I forgot to buy the vacuum line. Oh well, theres tommorow.

Anyway, I need clarification on a few things.

1. When I flash files I need to unplug the coils. That is just the one plastic clip? I know this sounds dumb, but it's driving me nuts second guessing myself.

2. The jumper on the boot pin for the MS. What is this?

Hopefully my next post will be that it is in and running. Then it is off to the dyno for tuning.

The ignitors are just that one plastic clip on the passenger side of the engine bay.

The boot jumper is just to the left of the chip (the side of the DB9 serial cable connector). It is two tiny holes on the PCB board, midway up the chip I believe, right above the proto area

1. Yes, when you reflash firmware, unplug the coils. Yes, the plastic clip that you can actually remove, not the two in the back. Check out the MSPNP install instructions; there's an actual photo of this. If you're nervous, just use your stim to reflash.

2. Boot jumper holes? Should be empty. If you do a fresh firmware flash, you'll need a boot jumper, sometimes, as instructed. Make sure you never remove the boot jumper while powered.

Ok thanks. I figured that was the plug, I just needed to make sure. I will go look at the PNP manual. I just wanted to know where the boot jumper was in case I ever needed it. I'll keep in mind where it is.

The ignitor itself is labeled as a power transistor. It's got a Mitsubishi logo on it.

1. you shouldn't need to flash it, but yes it sits on the passenger side shock, flat black plastic guy.

2. you wont need a boot jumper unless you completely wipe the existing firmware and try to reflash...

I know. I just want to make sure I know as much as possible about setting it up. If in the future I need to, at least now I know how.

It's good to know. I accidentally corrupted mine while burning some changes to the VE table. It became corrupted enough that it wouldn't run and I couldn't reflash it without putting the boot jumper in. Luckily I had a screwdriver and paperclip with me.

how did you corrupt it?

Actually I was loading an msq file after running VE analyzer. Every time I load one, it glitches while loading, cutting fuel for a millisecond and causing revs to drop at idle. This time I got moving again before it finished loading and it died, I tried starting it right after it died, which cut power to MS, causing it to become corrupt.

Well, it's in. But it won't start. The only thing that jumped out at me was my middle LED is not on. It cranks, and I even got a backfire out of it. A few times it has wanted to start, but it won't.

I'm searching around right now, any ideas?

backfire = too much fuel.

needs to lower cranking pws.

try this:

-40 6.1
-20 5.7
0 5.2
20 4.6
40 4.1
60 3.7
80 3.2
100 2.6
130 2.1
160 1.9

this assumes you are running those 550s. also make sure 5.6 is used for req_fuel.

Sorry forgot to mention I'm not using the 550's yet. Still the stock ones. Should I pop the 550's in with those settings?

I copied those numbers down for when I put them in, thanks.

what numbers were there? it may have already been loaded with a map for the 550s....

Damn it, killed the battery. I think one of two things are wrong. Either the injector size is wrong, or my timing is wrong. I have my base timing retarded because of the Greddy kit, does the MS know that?

Thanks for the help. I'm going to try and work on it tonight, but the weather isn't helping.

Fuck I hate serial ports. No matter how many different ways or computers I tried my usb-serial adapter no computer would find it.

My old Compaq has a serial port on it. Has a symbol like |O|O| on it. If I just get a serial cable will I need any adapters or drivers or any of that BS? This is just like my EMB, I can't connect to it after the first time.

You'll be golden without drivers if you've got a direct serial connection like that.

Is it just a normal male to female cable?

Yup

I'll go get one tommorow.

On a side note, now only my right LED is on. Also, the fan is always on with the key. My left LED was on before, it was dim but on. Something not right?

Well, I had some COM port issues and fixed them. I installed the files from the mspnp9093 and now the computer won't talk to the MS at all again.

Right now I'm stuck after the copyini part of the FAQ.

This part-
Create a File called "EFI" on your C: drive and copy the zip file of your MSnSE 029v.zip into that file. Then un-zip the file into the C:\EFI\ folder.

My file wasn't zipped. I ran the copyini app, but I don't have the "edit-settings" app.

I don't know why I always have so much trouble with the software.

Delete all your MS software garbage. Then download the .exe for your car from mspnp.com.
Make the appropriate adjustments and use their folders. That software install FAQ you're following is bogus and difficult to follow. You don't need to do all that crap. You only need one folder. The one that says Megasquirt, inside that you will have your project folder and megatune and a bunch of crap like that.
Make sure you use the correctly easythermed file and .inc files though as well. Stay away from that FAQ, its bogus.

Yeah it is. Thanks for helping.

I deleted all my old stuff, and got the new pnp stuff. Now when I open megatune it asks for afm or not, I chose no. I changed the COM to 1 and 9600, still "no response!" from the test.

Do I need to modify the pnp files? I don't get it, my computer talked to the MS just a while ago.

Are you sure you should be using com 1? Go into your hardware profile and make sure that is the comport being used.

I'm sure COM 1 is correct. It's an old laptop with a serial port, and sam told me it was COM 1. I had it working before.

I have a feeling you corrupted the firmware and need to try to reflash it with the .bat included in the MSPNP folder just to get it to communicate again.
When firmware corruption takes place you can still connect to it but not with megatune. Try that.

Is this a common problem with MS?

I am thinking of going down the MS route soon, though I think most of the install & tunning will be done by my mechanic.

I suppose that is possible. When I connected the first time it said that if I didn't close megatune it would corrupt it. I closed it, but maybe it corrupted it anyway?

Sorry to be such a pain, but is there a writeup I should follow now? I'm really confused by the programs.

I doubt it. I always have a hard time with the software side of tuning. It took me a million tries before my Emanage blue would work. I bet I'm just doing something stupid wrong.

For anyone following this, it works! Hasn't started yet, but their talking. The problem was the com port buffer. I had to lower them. It worked before on the high ones, but on medium it works just fine. Turn the key and the gauges move and the com test is a "success!".

With brains help I'm going to figure out if my timing or injector size is wrong, then hopefully start it. Then I get to redo all my joints and run the wires where I want them and get set for tuning.

hold on ill make a quick map for you to load as a base....

it will be for a 90-93, stock injectors, and high res code.

I burned it and it cranks alot easier and faster. It still wouldn't start though. Would a vacuum leak or anything be causing it?

It said my timing advance is 17.something. Isn't that high?

That timing advance is fine. We run 14-20 at idle with the MS's successfully. Even the MSPNP runs 20&17 at idle.

Turns out I forgot to set the LC-1 in the configurator. I also forgot to scale the LC-1 output. I'll search for the voltage settings later, I have seen them here before. Mine should be the same right?

I have class now, so I have to wait until tommorow. Damn.

0-5v 10-20 afr is what the linear setting uses

My LC-1 won't let me input those voltages. It says that 0 volts at 10 afr won't work the afr needs to be between 860.5 and something else. I have my autometer NB gauge on output 1, I think it reset itself. Anyone have those settings as well?

It doesnt work when you are trying to set them using the Innovative Software?

change the bullet to AFR not lambda....

I did. I don't get it.

Attachment 213653

Something has to be off somewhere. The first time I tried cranking I got a backfire that could wake up the neighbors. I heard some weird noise up front so I took off the intercooler pipes and cranked. It turns over fast then just stops and I hear a big "psh" from the intake. I get maybe 3 cranks then the psh.

When I crank the dash tach isn't moving but the MS tach is. I unplugged my ignitor everytime I modified a setting in the MS so I doubt it's the ignitor. I noticed the left LED is on when the ignitor is plugged in.

I did do the " set" for the LC-1 0-5v o2 in the configurator. Under spark settings my "cranking advance angle" is 12, in the FAQ it says it should be 18. My trigger angle addition is +22.5.

I'm so frustrated. I want to fix something, but nothing is working with me. I need to fix one thing at a time, but nothing is fixing. Its the emanage all over again.

im looking at the pictures i took of your board and harness...i need to you to swap number 1 & 4 spark plug wires with 2 & 3....

Swap them on the coils?

Sorry, dumb question. I was frustrated.

Anyway, I swapped them, IT RUNS!.....like shit. But its ok, it runs. Right now I have the intercooler off, no open vacuum lines after the TB. I crank and it starts really quickly, but it won't idle. It stumbles when I rev it but it will rev to at least 2k rpm (I didn't want to go any higher).

Now I need to fix my wideband because I know its WAY off. This is a screen shot from when I tried to reset it to 0-5v 10-20afr. It says I cant?
Attachment 213643

I spent about an hour trying to figure this damn thing out. No matter what I do it won't let me input the 0-5v 10-20 afr. It keeps saying the damn 860.5 or higher. I don't know what else to do.

why dont you just leave it at default and change the megatune settings accordingly?

Because I have no idea what AFR is at 860 and 2619.

I'm seriously out of ideas. Do I need to unplug the sensor and do a full reboot? I need help!! I have found tutorials for tuning the rest of it, but I can't get started until I sort this out.

call innvoative....they have great customer service....ask for Felipe.

I'm stoopid. I forgot about their forum (I'm on too damn many). That also reminded me I had this problem before. On the first page there is that pull down tab. On mine it says custom, it needs to say gasoline.

Hopefully when I get home thats the problem.

That was the problem with the LC-1. I looked at that and it seemed familiar.

I'm not getting spark on the 1 & 4 coil. I let it "idle" and I pulled all the plug wires out. 2 & 3 will stall the engine, 1 & 4 have no effect.

I'm taking it apart right now to check if the harness has continuity with the pins off the ecu board. My multimeter probes are too big, so I couldn't get in there. Let me know what to do/check and I will.

Thanks.

see the two wires going onto the resistors....check to make sure those didn't come up somehow in shipping

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built...6/CIMG1222.JPG

also make sure the little legs of the transistors just below each aren't making contact.

Those wires were good and tight. However, the long chip on the other side was loose and had a bent out tooth. I straightened the tooth and pushed it back in. I'm going out now to check if it works.

That wasn't it. Still no spark. Anything else I should look at? I'll do another look over and snap some pictures.

well there is something going on with the board if the one LED isnt lighting...i was certain it was when i bench tested it here.

the entire spark output goes from the chip to R26 & R29, the transitor (q8 and q6), and then r28 and r24...I could see the one light being dim if some sort of solder flux or leg is making contact where it shouldnt.

i cant see anythign from the pictures i took.

I traced all the wires, I can't see any loose ones. Looking head on at the MS the right LED is really bright, the middle is off, and the left is dimmer than the other by about half.

I should be looking for solder or wire contact?

I'm reworking my MS map for the miata and saw this... I have 4.9 down for req fuel... is 5.6 more appropriate? rx7 560s.

Im using 6.1 for my 440cc

Right now my TB pipe is at the shop getting the RS flange and AIT bung welded on. Once I get it back I'm going to put the stock computer back in to see if it works.

well something is wrong with it if the one led is dim....you can send it back to me and i can take another look at it at least.

as far as req_fuel, it doesn't really matter...but since I used a DIY fuel map for his base, then i need to use 12.7 AFR in the calcs.