Well, I have read and read again but I'm tired and its all buzzes and whistles from here anyways... Using a different base map (Al Hounos) and some less flooded plugs, the car started right up and runs, although a little shaky. The idle droops but I guess that is to be expected with no tps. I am not sure exactly what I screwed up but I was going to check my static timing but when I restarted, I lost my tach and my check engine light is on. When I set timing back to -10 and restarted, same thing. What did I screw up?

 

And when I tried to check the timing, my timing light only lit up once every minute or so! I can't imagine my number one cylinder is firing that often, but I quess anything is possible with me at the helm.

 

did you blow the coil pack or ignitor?

 

Its still running. ?

 

I thought you only blow the coils when you switch firmware when its powered up. Or is it when you simply load a new msq?

 

you want to unplug the ignitor, update firmware, then install the msq, and then reconnect the ignitor.

I load msq's while driving, so at least on my car it doesnt blow the ignitor by loading the msq.

 

Did you flash firmware at all? If you flashed your firmware without loading an MSQ before plugging the coils back in then you could have damaged the coils.

Your posts aren't very clear. Is the car running or not. You say you have no tach and you now have a CEL. Is that CEL from a misfire, can you check the code? You can reset it by disconnecting the battery if you care.

 

Did I mention I am tired? The car runs and idles. My tachometer in my dashboard was working fine but now it is not working at all while the car is running. MS displays the correct rpms. Does that help? Never updated firmware.

 

Oh, its a piggyback install, If that matters.

 

When ignitors die your dash tach can fail to work, pretty sure that and misfires is a common occurence when ignitors are failing/half-lifed.

 

Yep my vote is bad igniter

 

Any ideas on why I fried the ignitor? I seriously went from working tach to nothing instantly. I think I will check all the connections on the harness tonight just in case I just lost rpm signal to the ecu, if that is possible.

 

Well to start it is old and coulda been weak to begin with then if your dwell was off significantly that would do it to.

 

Yep, the ignitor is fried, only partially my fault this time for once. That base map must have been really messed up. Its still running now but it is definitely missing, its a little ruff and the AFRs are like 11 at 1400rpm. Do you guys think the coilpack got toasted too? It doesn't feel warm and the ignitor feels like it is, well, igniting something.

 

The dwell (run) settings are 5 (first map didn't run) and 4.5 for the working map. This doesn't seem enough to burn it out!? Could it be that I had the ignition to "on" without the car running? I bet that did it.

 

Ugh, the base map that I am using was set to inverted spark. What did that screw up?

 

If I can only get this car running so I can drive it to the dyno and get it tuned. The dyno up here is supposed to be $80 an hour but he lets you take as long as you need. A friend spent almost four hours on it. So close.

 

The spark settings should be the one thing you always check when loading a new map. I hope you're not using al hounos's old map.
Inverted spark will fry your ignitors/coils when ran that way. Burned two of mine up in about a minute.

 

Yep having the wrong signal toasts ignitors quick check the ohms on the coils to see if htey are fubarred. If you ran for anyperiod of time i would most likely replace them all though just to be sure. One thing you dont want to fail ever is your ignition system, causse usualy it is a PITA to get parts for it. So get it right man and then dyno away. This could well be the perfect time for COP's

 

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. Is there any harm in buying used parts?