Please Help me Figure out why I'm Getting Resets!
 

Ever since I swapped to a 1.8L turbo. I've been having a problem with getting really bad resets. The resets happen randomly anywhere from 3k-5k and under any amount of load. When it resets that tach drops off and the car lurches real bad almost making my Girlfriend hit her head on that dash. LOL

Stuff done to try and Fix issue:
Added ecu grounds and cleaned grounds on engine
Cleaned grounds at battery and added an extra
Plugs gapped to .020
Switched from cops back to stock ignition setup to eliminate maybe a back cop or harness
Switched CAS with a known working one (Not Tested need to borrow a Timing Light)


Other strange things going on:
The only other strange thing besides the resets is that i never had my MS properly screwed down, so today when i had everything apart I screwed the MS down to the floor board which in turn would obviously ground the case. Went to start the car and I was only running on 2 cylinders??? Left the car running went over to MS and wiggled the wires... nothing. Unscrewed the MS from the floor board and bingo firing on all cylinders instantly. That symptom is repeatable by re-screwing the MS down. I don't know if that is related to my resets but I figured i would mention it. After I saw this happening I tried isolating the MS case from all metal by wrapping it in a towel. Still got resets...

Thanks for any help

Do they show up in a datalog?

my guess is that something on your harness is fuxd

Oh ya... Its the real deal. By looking at the data log would you be able to tell what was the cause? or does the data log just confirm what I already know?

I believe it wont, it'll just show a reset most likely. Is the harness attached firmly? Check for any shorts.

Are the resets consistent? Sometimes I get resets and sometimes I dont. Sometimes I'll get 2 while the car warms up and none later. Sometimes i'll be just fine then all of a sudden get 5-7 resets in a row in like 30 seconds to a minute. None seem to affect the way the car drives...

I'm beginning to think that moisture is the cause to my MS problems. If I bring my ecu in every night and keep it near the heater, it'll be fine the next day. If I leave it in the car over night or longer it seems to reset more. If I leave it in the car for 2 days sometimes it wont even turn on til I "warm" it up or "dry" it out or something.

I've cleaned and cleaned the flux off the board and it has improved dramatically, but not fixed. Could your issue be similar?

Ill try brining it in over night and seeing if that helps... Also noone thinks this case grounding missfire issue is of any concern?

I would certainly think the case grounding issue is a concern. But I have no idea what the problem is.

Ya, that grounding issue has got to be a concern. Is there perhaps a lead on the bottom of the board that isn't trimmed short enough or something making contact with the case? Perhaps could it be that you didn't use a mica insulator somewhere? <--I made this bonehead mistake on my idle TIP120.

BTW, is this a pnp or a diy ms? is it standalone or parallel?

One other thought...have you tried swapping out your spark plugs completely? This is something I haven't tried yet and I hear that it helps a lot with resets. Also, again, make sure you dont have any flux left on your board if you used it to assemble the MS.

Diy standalone built by braineak. Tried new plugs aswell. What does the middle led indicate on a diy standalone Ms? I noticed mine gets really dim after about 5 minutes of driving...

middle one is for warmup, if its on that means your car is in warmup mode.

what firmware are you running?

Have you checked the resistance between those two transistors and the heatsink?

If they are less then a certain point they will cause all sorts of issues.

Firmware is hr10G. I had a break through it think... I took my MS in the House to warm up just to see if there was maybe some ice or something messing it up. When i looked into the MAP sensor I saw A little blue circle. Turn the MS upside down and gave it a good shake and a piece of wire covering feel out. Brought the MS back outside figuring that must have been the issue. Went to start the car and it's misfires this time with the case no where near ground. Went under the hood with th car running and found that all sparks are sparking and the injectors for is not doing a damn thing. Know i know it could be a stuck injectors but seeing as it only starts to miss fire when i mess around with the MS I'm thinking that is the cause.... Any thoughts? I going to look over some wire diagrams now...

After looking at the diagram I just went out and confirmed that injector 2 is also not working... Where should i start now? My map sensor is also working normally as it was before i removed the wire insulation....

Was the MS modded with the .1uF capacitor to be able to run hr10g code?

Can you pull the MS out of the case (remove the two post on the DB9, then unscrew the four screws on the db37 side and slide out) and take a picture of the top and bottom of the board.

+1

If this conversation goes to PM, can the results be put into here for closure? I get occasional resets under boost, and am waiting to see this thread out. Thanks

Yes i did that mod about 7 months ago and have been running hires ever since with no issue until now... I'm working on pix. Give me 5 minutes to find my camera...

PIX of my board... (Braineack's Handywork i wish i could take the credit)

http://i44.tinypic.com/amp7vr.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/jzegau.jpg

Also all the insulators seem to be in order....