Wat? They drive the fuel injectors.

they drive the PWM circuit. they are not needed and cannot be used with HR code.

this is how all my boards look that i build with HR code:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built...005%20copy.jpg


Mike do me a favor and check the resistance between IAC1A and the end the resistor on JS8. Do the same between IAC1a and the other resistor on +5v.

This is the dumbest part of the assembly ever.

I had so many problems with these transistors grounding out. In the end I wound up using the nylon nuts from the MAP sensor, and black electrical tape instead of the mica insulator. Luckily its been working. If I ever do it again, im gonna use some ram sinks glued on with some AS5 adhesive.

Working on pulling those two transistors now... Also i know where js8 is but what is IAC1A? sorry for the dumb question...

You should measure the resistance first to see if that's the problem. That way at least you'll know if it was the problem. UYB. Megamanual can tell you what IACIA is faster than I can.

they had like 30,576 something resistance... Also when i pulled them it seemed like there was a little moisture in between it and the insulator... It seems like iac1a is pin#25 on the db37.

Resistances from pin#25 on db37 to 829ohm JS8 side of cap & 1304ohm ground side

Also if that circuit with the IAC1A has anything to do with the idle control I would like to eliminate that too if possible... I dont have an iac or plan on ever running one.

I will work on posting up an .msq for you guys in a bit.


*Edit:
Just got back from a drive. I must have fixed something but not the resets... I have a switch inturupting my boost controller ground wire so i can run less boost in the cold. Well just recently when ever i would switch it on and off the car would instantly reset. Tach drop out the whole nine. Now just going for the drive I could flip the switch as many times as i wanted and no resets from that. However Im still getting the rpm related reset and the squiggly "porta" line. IDK if that has anything to do with it or not. One other thing I though i should mention. Today I put a piece of cardboard in to block half my rad and my car started to idle super rich all the sudden. Loaded up megatune and my IAT was at 107 degrees. My IAT wire is in a spot where it got moved during the cardboard install. As u can see its back to normal but could that be an issue relating to the resets??? It seems like I'm listing the smallest random things but it maybe significant you never know...

Oops didnt realize non-paid members could post files...

I'm still getting the resets... I cant imagine what is doing this. Anyone want to throw in a long shot?

No idea. Possibly a noise issue. Like maybe you need a capacitor on something. I've always read "capicitor on JS8" or something like that. No idea what it's about, but I here all the highres fanbois need one. $0.02.

I looked at the msq and log. msq looks ok, though your ve table is gay, almost as bad as your spark map. How you got some of those values I dunno. Roll the dice 3 times and add them up?

Mike are you sure that cap on your board is a .1uF cap? that thing is mighty large, if it was anything other strength, it's possible you're filtering out the 2nd trigger signal from the CAS.

The idle circuit is simply that FET on the heat sink with the three wires going from it to Q4. Remove that and you have no more idle control circuit.

Basically I want you to measure the resistance of each resistor on the TACH input circuit that goes to JS8. There's a 1K resistor inline and a 470ohm resistor pull-up. I want to make sure those are correct.

You do not need to remove q12 or q9, since you did, the wetness you felt was heatsink compound.


I think it's time you flashed some new firmware, reload your msq, and look over your grounds more closely. I also again suggest you send the msq and log to Matt Cramer for review.