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Old 08-22-2007, 06:14 PM   #1
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Default PNP/LC-1 Question

So how exactly am i suppost to wire up the LC-1 to a MSPNP...i have the LC-1 sitting in my house...the PNP is in the mail. I know that you just select it in megatune to see the right display....but how do you wire it up exactly?

Brian
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:17 PM   #2
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Theres two options. That is all I know. I would like a write up, cause Im lazy and use my mind at work :(

HINT: FOUNDSOUL!!!!
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:20 PM   #3
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There are 2 ways of doing the wiring. There is a write up. It's in the instruction manual. So... RTFM
http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/ --> DOWNLOADS
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:25 PM   #4
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i read the manual. I still want a ******* write up. I have no idea what im doing.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE MANUAL
The MSPNP can work with many aftermarket wideband sensor systems such as the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 which is the system we recommend for ease of install and use. You will need to connect the MSPNP to a programmable analog output from the wideband sensor’s controller, and install the controller according to the manufacturer’s directions.
There are two ways of connecting the controller to the MSPNP. You can either connect the analog output to pin 10 of the MSPNP center connector, or you can cut and splice the oxygen sensor signal wire to the analog output. If you use pin 10 for wideband input, you must disconnect the stock oxygen sensor. Do not ground the oxygen sensor wire if you disconnect it; leave it completely unconnected and taped off if necessary (make sure it can’t short to ground or anything else).
After connecting the wideband sensor controller, you will need to change a few settings on the MSPNP.
MSPNP supports many common wideband oxygen sensor systems, including the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 / LM-1 line (LC-1 is our wideband of choice) and most other systems that provide a programmable analog voltage output. There are a few changes needed to the software settings to make in order to properly display and use the wideband sensor input.
To make MegaTune display the output correctly, select Configurator from the MegaTune Program’s File menu, or from the MegaTune group in your Start Menu. This will open up the configuration program. You will see a list in the left hand column of the Configurator that starts with MegaTune2.25 and then includes a list of project cars. The project you will use is either “MSPNP MM9093 with AFM” or “MSPNP MM9093 without AFM”, depending on whether you have kept the factory AFM or removed it and used a GM style IAT sensor. Click the plus sign in a box next to the project to expand the options under this one, then expand settings.ini, and then expand Settings.
Then select LAMBDA_SENSOR. You will see a menu of aftermarket wideband controllers at the right. Select the one that corresponds to the controller you will use. The LM-1 default will use the INNOVATE_1_2_LINEAR if you are using its default volt meter settings, while the LC-1 will use the INNOVATE_LC1_DEFAULT settings if you have not changed its outputs. Note that the Innovate products and many others have programmable outputs, and these options are simply for the default configuration. Adjusting the LM1 to use a wider range of output voltages, such as setting it to give 0 volts at 10:1 AFR and 5 volts at 20:1 AFR, will reduce the effects of noise in the input. This is recommended for best performance though you will need to program your LC-1 or LM-1 outputs to match, that’s easy though. Once you have specified the wideband settings, go to the File menu and select Save. Then you can run MegaTune and have it display the correct air-fuel ratio.
Once you have set the Configurator for the sensor, you will need to change a few settings in the MegaSquirt’s memory using MegaTune. You will find most of these in the Exhaust Gas Settings option under the Basic Settings menu. You will need to set the EGO Sensor Type to Wide Band, and change the EGO Switch Point to the voltage that your controller sends for a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. The MegaSquirt will try to maintain this air-fuel ratio when running in closed loop mode. The Controller Authority setting limits how much it can change the amount of fuel delivered, so that a faulty sensor can only cause the engine to be off by a small amount.
The Open Loop Mode settings under the More Settings menu regulate when the MegaSquirt will start ignoring the oxygen sensor input. Unless you have modified the MSPNP to use a potentiometer TPS, you will need to set this to KPa. This lets you turn off the oxygen sensor correction above a given manifold pressure.
However, if you have a wideband oxygen sensor, you do not need to turn off this correction at full throttle like a factory ECU. Instead, you can make MegaSquirt target a lean air-fuel ratio while cruising, and go to a rich air-fuel ratio under boost – and have the oxygen sensor help you target both. To enable this, select Lambda AFR Settings from the More Settings menu, and turn on the 8 x 8 AFR target table for VE Table 1. Once this is on, you can go to the AFR target table and set your targets as a function of manifold pressure or boost and RPM. The values in this target table will be the raw voltage output from the oxygen sensor controller, not actual air-fuel ratios.
MegaTune is also able to tune the VE tables on its own, based on inputs from a wideband sensor. This feature is called AutoTune. The software will adjust the VE tables in a limited range to make the air-fuel ratio match your target settings. Use this feature with caution and make sure your targets and sensor readings are correct before you enable it. You will usually still need to do fine tuning by hand. You should not rely entirely on AutoTune mode to get your car in tune.

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Old 08-22-2007, 06:31 PM   #6
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dude I want pictures to follow....color pictures.... with arrows.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
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dude I want pictures to follow....color pictures.... with arrows.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:21 PM   #8
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ok loki here goes.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:27 PM   #9
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Once you see your unit it will be obvious. There's 3 connectors, and only 2 on the car. The middle connector is for hooking up EBC, launch control, wideband, and a knock sensor. Pin 10 is the second pin from the left on the bottom row. You can either use a full connector, or a bullet connector wrapped in electrical tape.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:29 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Once you see your unit it will be obvious. There's 3 connectors, and only 2 on the car. The middle connector is for hooking up EBC, launch control, wideband, and a knock sensor. Pin 10 is the second pin from the left on the bottom row. You can either use a full connector, or a bullet connector wrapped in electrical tape.
are these readily available yet?
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:42 PM   #11
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I'd ask Jerry on that one.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:43 PM   #12
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I'd ask Jerry on that one.
he said no a couple months ago. I cant' seem to get my hands on the right center connector, and I wanted to put MS in my car for this weekend's track day.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:19 PM   #13
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Coming for the ************ who can make a decision. At least i know what I want as simple as it isl
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:28 PM   #14
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We honestly haven't stopped to take pictures of a step by step wideband install-- but I really don't think you'll have any problem if you follow the Quick Start Guide that comes with the LC-1, and when it tells you to ground the 'system ground', just know that you want to ground that at the same place as the MSPNP ECU. On the 90-93 this is a bracket that hangs on the 'hook' on the back of the engine right beside the CAS. You'll see a couple ground wires going there already. There's another ECU ground just under this on another bracket. Either of these will work fine. The heater ground can go anywhere else, to any good ground. Innovate does want it to a separate ground though.

12v switched can come from anywhere you can pull 12v switched. There is at least on wire on the diagnostic connector you could use, and though I've not tested it I bet you could use the blue connector near the drivers side headlight that's often used to power a timing light. Just make sure you use something that's hot when the key is on or car is running, and not when the key is off.

Signal is covered well in the MSPNP manual.

As for the middle connectors-- we have them now, BUT, they're not quite ready to ship yet. We're getting them crimped up and assembled-- I'm expecting two weeks. Anyone that has bought an MSPNP from us is getting one shipped to the address their MSPNP shipped to as soon as they are ready. We don't have any way to get any sooner than that as all the materials are now shipped off to be assembled-- I had a couple but they are gone now, the motherload will be back soon and I'll distribute them. They're going to be assembled into 6" pigtails for easy use. All MSPNP owners will get one, new and old.
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:04 PM   #15
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found quick question. It says if yhou use the pin 10 method to remove the o2 stock sensor. Does this mean to cut the o2 wires at the ECU or just the wires where the O2 sensor wires hang by the dp?
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:09 PM   #16
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Just unplug the damn thing at the plastic connector at the back of the head, by the coils.

Jerry, next time you see my car, you can take a pics of where we added in the LC1's analog out feed.
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:25 PM   #17
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Exactly as Ben said-- just unplug it...


Ben- Sounds good.
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