Pre-Install Checklist for DIYPNP
Hey guys, I finished soldering my DIYPNP box a few weeks ago and I'm planning on installing it this weekend. To putting together a checklist and I'm hoping those who have done it before can review to make sure I'm not leaving anything out. A little info about my setup:
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1. Ignore the errors, accept whatever it wants you to accept, change all settings to match what you are using. You now have a 3.3.3 base map.
2. WB controller outside in engine bay zip tied to brake lines. Sensor cable doesnt reach inside unless you make a new hole by trans tunnel? 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. Do exactly as the instructions say and well you need serial in order to comm with controller so what do you think? 8. Makes no difference but eliminates a variable. Make sure the info is correct for injectors, all of the info. 9. If you have a 95.5 the tach wire is in a different spot on the harness |
1. I have a 3.3.3 seq. basemap i could send.
But I wire mine a particular way that differs slightly from the DIY docs. I bring the a/c switch into PE1 and the output is on WLD or ALD (cant remember off my head). That way the MS controls the a/c compressor and you have the true idle-up delay for seamless activation. 2. Mine sat beneath my stereo and the sensor went down through the shift boot. Wire your DIYPNP to bring 12v and GND to the DB15 as well as the Wbo2 input--wire your LC2 back to the DB15. I suggest an inline fuse on the power wire. 3. no. see #2 4. no. see #2 5. yes. 6-7. eh. 8. up to you. 10minutes to swap, so might as well get running on stock injectors, then swap the new ones in to eliminate any variables. 9. make sure you sync the timing, and then go back to "use table". |
Warning: Noob questions to follow. :noob:
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1233816)
1. I have a 3.3.3 seq. basemap i could send.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1233816)
I bring the a/c switch into PE1 and the output is on WLD or ALD (cant remember off my head). That way the MS controls the a/c compressor and you have the true idle-up delay for seamless activation.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1233816)
Wire your DIYPNP to bring 12v and GND to the DB15 as well as the Wbo2 input--wire your LC2 back to the DB15. I suggest an inline fuse on the power wire.
2a. Is there a pinout standard for the DB15, or do I simply choose any 3 pins? 2b, Inside the MS, I run a wire from each of the 3 DB15 pins to 12v, ground, and O2 signal (4N on the adapter) respectively. Right? 2c. The inline fuse would be here: MS --> DB15 --> 5A fuse --> LC-2. Like that?
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1233813)
Do exactly as the instructions say and well you need serial in order to comm with controller so what do you think?
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1233816)
make sure you sync the timing, and then go back to "use table".
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1a. I came across an old post from Brain explaining the A/C wiring.
To recap, my current setup is:
Implementing Brain's method would involve:
Or do you skip the RELAY altogether, like this:
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Originally Posted by Windows95
(Post 1233855)
Honestly, I thought the yellow wire addressed that.
Where do the (2) 4-pin connectors go? I was under the impression the OUT was used for loading firmware updates and changing defaults. Where does the IN go? |
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234095)
These are your comm connections as you noted above. Read the instructions.
The LC-2’s serial connectors are utilized when needed to program analog output settings, data log via the Logworks software with a Windows PC, or to daisy chain with other Innovate Motorsports’ devices. |
I think you are looking at the quick start guide. You need to look at the manual. Specifically section 5.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf It should include a serial cable but its a 2.5mm? jack to rs232 so its not useful for new machines unless you have a rs232 to usb adapter which I'm sure you have since you have a DIYPNP which doesn't have native USB. On mine I had to communicate with the controller once since I needed two 0-5V wideband outputs and my LC1 came configured for one 0-5V wideband output and one 0-1V simulated narrow band output. One output was for the display gauge and the other to go straight into the DIYPNP. Edit: The LC1 has 2.5mm serial connector while the LC2 has different connectors. Either way you need to adapt these to your PC to be able to comm with the controller. Likely you only need to do it once but.... you aren't using a gauge. |
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234109)
I think you are looking at the quick start guide. You need to look at the manual. Specifically section 5.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234109)
unless you have a rs232 to usb adapter which I'm sure you have since you have a DIYPNP which doesn't have native USB.
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234109)
The LC1 has 2.5mm serial connector while the LC2 has different connectors. Either way you need to adapt these to your PC to be able to comm with the controller. Likely you only need to do it once but.... you aren't using a gauge.
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Did you get it used? All the ones I see online say they come with the cable.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234120)
Did you get it used? All the ones I see online say they come with the cable.
Attachment 233324 |
Yeah you are missing the serial comm cable. Unless this was some kind of packaging that didn't come with it for some reason. Shoot them an email. Might have to wit til tuesday for a response.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hector
(Post 1234123)
Yeah you are missing the serial comm cable. Unless this was some kind of packaging that didn't come with it for some reason. Shoot them an email. Might have to wit til tuesday for a response.
Attachment 233323 Thanks for helping me realize I needed to track it down. So...to take it full circle, after programming via PC, I won't need the Serial IN/OUT unless I have a gauge. |
Actually since you only need one 0-5V signal (which you currently have available via the yellow wire) you don't need to comm with the controller at all. It should work as is.
Now if you want to confirm you have the latest software, etc. then go ahead. Or if you get a display gauge that works on 0-5V or even some other voltage requirement. Note that some people have needed to fine tune the reading in the Tunerstudio gauge to read the same voltage as reported by a display gauge. Generally it's off by .2-.3 AFR. So maybe hook up to the controller and confirm you are getting the same readings from the controller in TS. If not, adjust TS WBo2 settings in "Tools" "calibrate AFR" or something like that. |
Can anyone else comment on post #5, regarding Brain's A/C wiring method?
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2 Attachment(s)
<p>WLED - 1L</p><p>ALED - 1J, 4S</p><p>Input 1 IN - 1Q </p><p>INput 1 OUT - PE1</p><p>Input 2 IN - 1V</p><p>Input 2 OUT - FLEX</p><p>PAO - Boost IN</p><p>Boost OUT - DB15 pin</p><p> </p><p>need to put the 2.2K resistor on R14 back.</p><p> </p><p> </p>
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Thanks. Much appreciated.
Input 2 and Boost are new. What do they do? Did you mean need to "cut" the R14 resistor? |
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