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Old 11-29-2013, 03:34 PM   #21
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By the way, in the photo here where you show your Bung after your IC... Is that JB?

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ocation-30372/

After some research on aluminum stick welding I've decided that it will not be very successful.
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Old 11-29-2013, 03:45 PM   #22
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yes.
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Old 11-29-2013, 03:53 PM   #23
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Nice
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:07 PM   #24
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Brain / Forum, what is your take on the throttle position and CLT readings when plugged into the computer?

for TPS, I assume it is because it is un-calibrated.
what about the CLT "blip"?

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Originally Posted by chitty chitty bang bang View Post
Thanks Brain,

I will head out to get a timing light for base-timing and some vaccum-line and a barb for MAP.

I noticed two things while plugged into TS, are these normal:

- The throttle position increments upward and goes to 116% and stops there.
- The coolant temp defaults at 180 and drops to 120 for a split second every 10-15 seconds or so

I can't seem to find a shop to weld in an aluminum bung today and may pick up an arc welder to do so tomorrow. In the mean-time, what settings do you typically use to run off the MAF?

Kindly,
ccbb
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:12 PM   #25
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After mounting into car, TPS and CLT read correctly after calibrating returns based on DIYPNP given figures here:

DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata


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Originally Posted by chitty chitty bang bang View Post
Brain / Forum, what is your take on the throttle position and CLT readings when plugged into the computer?

for TPS, I assume it is because it is un-calibrated.
what about the CLT "blip"?
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:25 PM   #26
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Don't expect the sensor values to read correctly if no sensors are connected to the ECU.
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:31 PM   #27
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Heh heh heh - Thanks Ben! I just learned that .

Here's a follow up question. (Outdoor ambient when I tested was around 30 degrees.) After above, i installed the IAT, readings were at 16 degrees as opposed to Coolant reading at 40.

The coolant fans were on at full blast, engine off (is this normal?)

My first impressions are that I may have mis-wired the coolant fan or have not set up the coolant fan output properly for firmware 3.3 (wiring photo on first page of thread, can't find coolant fan output or input settings in 3.3 firmware)

I feel like this may explain low AIT because the coolant fans are creating wind-chill and making the aluminum tubing very cold whereas maybe the coolant itself is being cooled at a slower rate. I watched both temps for some time and they were constant over the course of 5-10 minutes (odd that CLT did not drop).

My other option is to adjust the resistance to somewhat equalize to what I know ambient to be. (car off)

What do you think it is?


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Don't expect the sensor values to read correctly if no sensors are connected to the ECU.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:06 AM   #28
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Wow... All this time, I was looking for "Output Settings" in the 3.3 firmware and it was hiding under my nose as Programmable On/Off Outputs. I think my cooling fan problem is solved.

Still a bit unclear about why coolant and IAT temps differ but I'll test again in the AM.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:03 PM   #29
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Update from Matt over at DIYAutotune:

AC
1K to Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT to PE1
PA0 to Relay 2 IN
Relay 2 OUT to 1B
1B to 1G

Rad

WLD to Relay 1 IN (or whatever avail. output)
Relay 1 OUT to 1A

R14 is installed (2.2K)

Use the 3.3 MSPNP basemaps here:

MSPNP base maps are here:

MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:45 AM   #30
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bump because important
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:19 AM   #31
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A/C is fine so long as PA0 is available on the programmable outputs screen. I use ALD.

So:

1K > Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT > PE1
ALD > 1B, 1G

for Rad:

WLD > 1A

no need to put ALD and WLD through the relay circuit. Those are already running a 5A protected output.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #32
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Ok, just got my AC woeking the other day. I originally wired up my fans with the instructions on the DIYAutotune documentation page. Problem is, I need both condenser fan and radiator fan to work when AC is on. High side pressure (which is after condenser) is 350+psi with just condenser fan working and 200psi with both fans on.

Is it as simple as jumpering the AC out from the main board to the radiator fan? Obviously the AC out is connected to the AC relay and condenser fan relay already.

Would doing this put too much strain on that circuit? Would it cause some kind of backfeed issue with the circuit controlling the radiator fan?

I tried looking for some other condition that could turn it on in the software under programmable outputs but I don't know if there is something available there. A bunch of "gpioxxx" entries but it beats me what those are. I'm running 3.3.1 firmware.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:55 AM   #33
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add a condition to your rad fan outputs OR idleupcnt > 4.

that will turn on the cooling fan too.
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:00 PM   #34
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Doh, should have thought of that! Will try and report back with result.

Is this something you do? Have you found the need to run both fans or is my condenser fan not working properly?

edit: tried Brain settings and no go with idleupcnt but did work with "or idledc<30". Now I can fully charge my system without fear of it blowing up.

Might have something to do with my ac control being the "dumb" control of simple in-out through diypnp instead of the actual ac control capabilities of 3.3.1. I run seq fuel and spark so my i/o is severely limited. I could probably do it but I would lose the FLEX input and I intend to use that in the near future.

Last edited by hector; 08-23-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:01 PM   #35
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I dont use inferior ms2 firmware :P

I setup ms3x software to do this, it's much easier in that firmware cause you can also make the a/c fan turn on if the coolant temp gets too hot as well.

I typically have the cooling fan turn on at 200 and off at 190, and then the a/c to turn on at 210 and off at 200.

90-93 installs dont need any software help, the cooling fan will always turn on with the a/c fan.
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