What do you do when you have this:

...staring you in the face?

Easy, you add a breadboard so you can try a few things out.

Test Fit:


And the final product:


Several more circuits coming later...

 

Looking good. I hope you get it all squared away soon. That black case looks good too. Get-er-done

 

Man I'm smart. That fits perfect too. That's what we did when we turned a walmart toy charger into knight rider with 8 leds in the mouth. Actually looks just like the one coming out in the new movie.

 

 

V2.2 boards are so much more simple to assemble. No wonderful built in proto or flyback though. Cool stuff.

 

I want to mount my megasquizzle in a factory PCM case but just haven't been able to find one cheap enough. Then I might expand my proto board to the larger one so I've got oodles of room for expansion. That little add on board was the best idea I've had, have added even more stuff since.

 

I don't know if it shows in the pic, but the two boards are different in concept - mine is a push-type, temporary, "stuff will probably shake loose" board, for rapid testing of bad ideas (and I have a lot of those!). Yours is a MS-expansion board.

I've seen stock computers for like $30. Toss the computer, keep the case. Or get a box from digikey or something. That shouldn't be your limiting factor. Anyway, even on the little tiny protoboard that comes with the MS-V3, I had 5 input circuits, and four outputs. They don't take much space if you try hard to make them small.


I'd rather have more proto area than the one-size-fits-all V3 board. One of each of a bunch of things you probably don't need, but if you do need them you'll need two (position triggers, spark output). At least I was able to recycle one of the outs (Q16) for my boost solenoid, the opto-circuit for a clutch switch input, and an LED for a +12V switch for my fans.
I very well might use the VR input as a way to emulate the two independant factory crank/cam triggers (which each use a comparitor and some caps and resistors here and there to power).

 

lol. Testing is never a bad thing.

I've yet to really find a stock computer under like 50$ or so.. Been wanting to hit up the pick-n-pull to grab a random mazda unit cause they're only like 20 or so out there but its kinda ******* snowing again. Sigh.

 

Why an OEM case, though? Heck, why any case at all? Pull out your stereo and tape deck, mount it on tall standoffs behind a plexiglass window in there. Add UV lights and flashing blue lights and have a **** on the front that controls the fans blowing on the little radiator for the water cooling system you will add, complete with UV dye in the lines.

 

JDM Tyte!

 

Just so you all know how great this is, let me show you what it looks like the second time I used it:

This has been running for a half week now, no issue. Make the wires long enough so the insulated part is as long as the MS case. It opens fine on this side, won't reach on the other.

 

Found a case btw to stuff my boomslang in..

 

+1

Awesome. Do you worry about the "unused pins" shorting to each other, and doing something bad?

 

Yep, which is why I wanted the case to cut up. Mounting MS above the case in factory location (which is actually from some toyota of some kind.. yet identical to the miata case) with some epoxy to hold the connector in place. That should prevent any accidental shorting inside the case.

 

NM, I was wondering about the pins in the middle, which were bent by a wire or vaccum line. Turns out you under-sensored NA folks don't even USE that whole plug. :-) There's like 2 N.C. wires on the whole 99+ harness.