Ready for Roast: New MS3X, New Motor Swap, Newbie Has Problems
06-27-2017, 10:11 PM
#1
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Ready for Roast: New MS3X, New Motor Swap, Newbie Has Problems
Build: 1990 with BP4W swap, VICS ThirdGen'd [read modified] manifold, Wiseco 8.6:1 on Manleys, ST heavy springs, AC/PS delete, self-built MS3X, ID1000, Walbro 255, D585 coils, MTX-L, not boosted yet until motor is broken in and working. I'll add relevant parts if I realize i forgot them.
Problems: Car had a really rough time starting, had some ECU hardware issues and fixed them. Working with StefanSt so he'll probably chime in for the difficult bits. We had to dump fuel into it to get it to start, idled very roughly and was lean, so we added fuel just to get it to stay alive and have a lower AFR reading on the gauge. While idling for a few minutes I looked under the car and saw that my cat was glowing and at that second luckily I was looking the Vband on my nice new exhaust burst into flames. So I put the fire out, shut it down and left things there for a few days.
Came back and realized that my EGR port on my manifold was wide open - I had purchased the block off plate from FM and going by the picture thought I only needed the top hole for the sensor blocked off. I cannibalized my old EGR pipe and hammered the piece closed and stuck that on there, hopefully getting rid of that massive vacuum leak. No start with same conditions before fixing EGR issue, no start after even though we now have a better vacuum. Some of Stefan's invaluable input was that it's strange my idle wasn't crazy high because of that vacuum leak.
We thought it was retarded timing making things so hot, but in the brief moment i was able to get my timing light up to the pulley, the marks on the pulley were about 5 or so degrees to the left of the the timing lines (that means advanced, right?).
Verified compression is 150 in each cylinder, all uniform so I'm assuming that's fine since I have low comp pistons. Verified we have spark, injectors work. Stefan is driving down tomorrow and hopefully his black magic wizardry in person will work better than telling me what to do and check via text. Just fishing for ideas of how to approach this. Ideally with less fuel and fire.
Here's the log of a 10 minute run if it makes any difference.
Problems: Car had a really rough time starting, had some ECU hardware issues and fixed them. Working with StefanSt so he'll probably chime in for the difficult bits. We had to dump fuel into it to get it to start, idled very roughly and was lean, so we added fuel just to get it to stay alive and have a lower AFR reading on the gauge. While idling for a few minutes I looked under the car and saw that my cat was glowing and at that second luckily I was looking the Vband on my nice new exhaust burst into flames. So I put the fire out, shut it down and left things there for a few days.
Came back and realized that my EGR port on my manifold was wide open - I had purchased the block off plate from FM and going by the picture thought I only needed the top hole for the sensor blocked off. I cannibalized my old EGR pipe and hammered the piece closed and stuck that on there, hopefully getting rid of that massive vacuum leak. No start with same conditions before fixing EGR issue, no start after even though we now have a better vacuum. Some of Stefan's invaluable input was that it's strange my idle wasn't crazy high because of that vacuum leak.
We thought it was retarded timing making things so hot, but in the brief moment i was able to get my timing light up to the pulley, the marks on the pulley were about 5 or so degrees to the left of the the timing lines (that means advanced, right?).
Verified compression is 150 in each cylinder, all uniform so I'm assuming that's fine since I have low comp pistons. Verified we have spark, injectors work. Stefan is driving down tomorrow and hopefully his black magic wizardry in person will work better than telling me what to do and check via text. Just fishing for ideas of how to approach this. Ideally with less fuel and fire.
Here's the log of a 10 minute run if it makes any difference.
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06-28-2017, 11:06 PM
#3
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Location: Lambertville, NJ
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I stopped by today and we figured it out. Some wiring gremlins came in one night and switched coil-plugs around. While they were at it, they also set the sparkplug gaps at .045". With that fixed the engine idles like a champ now.
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