Really need some help with broken MS and Accel Enrich Tuning
#1
Really need some help with broken MS and Accel Enrich Tuning
Hi All,
Here's the story. We installed an FM2 turbo kit in my 99 miata recently. Everything was fine and the installer did a street tune that was very stable and conservative. Two days later while I was tuning the WUE, somehow someway the file in my MS got corrupted and I was able to salvage only the fuel, ignition and AFR tables. Everything else is gone. The tuner does not have a copy of the tune anymore and has been great in talking me through as much as he can. I cannot get the car to him as it is undrivable at the moment. I have managed to reset the project to most of how it was before including the larger 700cc injectors however I have no idea how to go about fixing the Accel Enrichment. I am going full lean upon throttle tip in and the DIYAUTOTUNE guide is a little too complicated for my beginner (noob) brain. Car just dies when i try at all to move it in any gear. I just don't know where to start.
I would really appreciate some guidance on how to go about tuning this to match with the rest of the tune. I have no ego and if you explain it to me like im five years old, I really will not be offended. I know this is asking a lot but any help or guidance or even reference materials would be appreciated.
Thanks MT.net
Here's the story. We installed an FM2 turbo kit in my 99 miata recently. Everything was fine and the installer did a street tune that was very stable and conservative. Two days later while I was tuning the WUE, somehow someway the file in my MS got corrupted and I was able to salvage only the fuel, ignition and AFR tables. Everything else is gone. The tuner does not have a copy of the tune anymore and has been great in talking me through as much as he can. I cannot get the car to him as it is undrivable at the moment. I have managed to reset the project to most of how it was before including the larger 700cc injectors however I have no idea how to go about fixing the Accel Enrichment. I am going full lean upon throttle tip in and the DIYAUTOTUNE guide is a little too complicated for my beginner (noob) brain. Car just dies when i try at all to move it in any gear. I just don't know where to start.
I would really appreciate some guidance on how to go about tuning this to match with the rest of the tune. I have no ego and if you explain it to me like im five years old, I really will not be offended. I know this is asking a lot but any help or guidance or even reference materials would be appreciated.
Thanks MT.net
#7
A few questions to help me understand what's happening;
- Are you REALLY running with barometric correction? I see it enables, and was just wondering.
- What was your outside temp (to see where you're falling on the Crank PW, ASE and WUE tables) when you tried to start?
- Did you actually tune your open & closed idle duty settings (or were these just guesses)?
- Do you REALLY want to idle at 1500 RPM at 73*F (seems kinda high, but to each is own)?
- Are you REALLY running with barometric correction? I see it enables, and was just wondering.
- What was your outside temp (to see where you're falling on the Crank PW, ASE and WUE tables) when you tried to start?
- Did you actually tune your open & closed idle duty settings (or were these just guesses)?
- Do you REALLY want to idle at 1500 RPM at 73*F (seems kinda high, but to each is own)?
#9
Some suggestions;
- Under "General Settings", set the Barometric Correction to "Initial MAP Value"; right now, your tune is trying to compensate for a non-existent secondary ambient air pressure signal - no telling what it's doing to the calculations.
- In the same menu you'll probably want to set the "Incorporate AFR Target" to "Include AFR Target", this will enable you to set the Stoichioemetric AFR value - leave that at the default of 14.7.
- Turn off the over-run fuel cut (for now). This might be your biggest problem. Your tune is telling the MS to cut fuel when the RPM goes higher than 2000 with the throttle less than 5% - fairly easy to do when you're trying to get moving. Turn this off and see if you can get going.
- Did your tuner actually "calibrate" the Trigger Angle Offset? If that's wrong it'll throw off your Ignition Table. At this point, it's probably not your biggest problem, but that should be checked before you get serious.
- Also, the Spark Latency is set, you might want to change that to zero.
- You might also want to reduce the "Flood Clear" from 100%, down to maybe 70-80% (it'll probably never be an issue either way).
- I'm not gonna suggest any changes to your idle valve settings, but my car would be way unhappy with your settings (and you didn't mention any idle problems)