Reverant MS3 basic - winter upgrades now won't start
 

Hey guys just looking for a little help here. 99 miata on MS3 basic built by rev. have COPS and basic small upgrades started and ran fine all last year.

Did two upgrades this winter.
- FM 32-2 trigger wheel
- changed to a Honda intake manifold - I did recal TPS already.

I believe the problem is in the 32-2 trigger wheel upgrade. I'm getting error messages and not sure which settings I should be on. Which cam input?, fully sequential or semi sequential? Number of coils?

I've attached some screen shots.

Mine's a 36-1
A couple things I have different.
Under Sequential I have> Sequential/Semi-sequential
Timing Trigger> End of Pulse
Fixed timing or table> Fixed Timing
Fixed Injection timing> -350.0
Cranking Injection timing> 360.0

Trigger wheel arrangement is> Dual wheel missing tooth (try this first)
Cranking advance is> 16.5
Every thing else looks the same. Try one change at a time. Distance from sensor to wheel is really tight @ .60.

You need to update the ECU to the latest 1.3.0 firmware.

Then simply select ignition mode "36-2" from the bottom of the list, instead of toothed wheel.

thanks guys! got it started tonight.

Is there any gauge on megasquirt that could easily tell me if i have a vacuum leak? I just want to make sure my hondata manifold gasket/ custom intake manifold isn't leaking at the head.

MAP was pretty steady around 39-40kpa, not sure if that tells me much.

My idle quality was pretty shitty when cold or a load (headlights) (was at 14.7afr & 16 degrees timing) Not sure if that's something I need to setup with the Honda IAC (2 wire). Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated.

Reduce your timing to 10* and report back your kPa when warmed up.

Posted attachment. For KPA.

I noticed the default setting on the trigger angle for the 36-2 setting was 7 degrees. Changed that 0.5 and it started to run a lot better. It said in the notes that it should be 0 on a toothed wheel. not sure why MS set it to 7 degrees.

@natedawg - So did you use the Miata 36-2 mode option from the first menu or left it on the Toothed Wheel mode option and just changed the number of teeth along with degree angle values? Shouldn't selecting the Miata 36-2 mode automatically populate the rest of the setting accordingly?

Pressurize the air path to look for vacuum and boost leaks.

Installed 3.3.3 firmware and the Miata 36-2 ignition option mode failed to populate the needed data to use a FM 36-2 toothed wheel. But lucky me a week later fireware 3.4.0 was released and this worked.
The Spark A Output changed to IGN1 and think this is causing my stock oem tach to not display the correct RPMs. There is a Tacho. Output menu and this is selected OFF. Wonder if this has anything to do with the tach issue?

ON needs to be selected and TACHOUT with NORMAL speed is the correct setting to get the oem tach working.