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Rpm increase when shifting, intermittent.

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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:13 AM
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Default Rpm increase when shifting, intermittent.

Hey guys, have a problem i’m unsure of. So when my car is warmed up properly, whenever i shift or push is clutch relatively quick, rpms will increase. This is more of annoyance and it’s just a quirk i can drive around but sometimes it gets really annoying. I noticed however when the cars cold, it doesn’t do this. I’m running diypnp2 with no tps(adding vtps soon). I’ve checked throttle cable, cleaned throttle body etc but the problem doesn’t seem to go away. Yesterday, it was warm outside. And i completely closed the idle screw in effort to relieve my misery. And the problem didn’t happen at all, but then i drove the car again (same day) at night when it cooled down, and the problem returned. Absent when cold, starts rising upon clutch engagement when warm. Any help? Thanks!
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:14 AM
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Also, i’m running open loop right now. The problem doesn’t exist in closed loop but i get pretty large idle droops in closed loop and revs drop like a rock versus rising a little bit.
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:44 AM
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Tune your idle.
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 01:14 PM
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Ok.. i’ve been tuning idle for a few weeks. The car idles great.
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 01:21 PM
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Increase in RPM = increase in airflow. There are two things that allow air into the engine, the throttle body and the idle valve. When you dip the clutch and close the throttle to shift, the only way air gets into the engine is through the idle valve. Thus, the idle valve is letting too much air into the engine. This manifests as hanging RPM, or in extreme cases like yours, a rise in RPM. It's caused by improper idle valve settings. This is further shown by a difference in cold vs. hot operation, since the idle valve settings will change with temperature. They sound like they are correct or near-correct when cold, but the initial values are too high when hot.

Thus, "tune your idle"
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Increase in RPM = increase in airflow. There are two things that allow air into the engine, the throttle body and the idle valve. When you dip the clutch and close the throttle to shift, the only way air gets into the engine is through the idle valve. Thus, the idle valve is letting too much air into the engine. This manifests as hanging RPM, or in extreme cases like yours, a rise in RPM. It's caused by improper idle valve settings. This is further shown by a difference in cold vs. hot operation, since the idle valve settings will change with temperature. They sound like they are correct or near-correct when cold, but the initial values are too high when hot.

Thus, "tune your idle"
Ahh that makes sense. But im in open loop, above 130*F, my idle valve position is a constant 32.9 until hot. Could it have something to do with my voltage compensation?
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:10 PM
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no. there's a specific setting for if you want your idle valve to open or stay closed, and for how long between shifts
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:15 PM
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Where exactly is that setting if i’m in open loop? Is it temperature dependent?
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:19 PM
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It's in closed loop settings. There is no reason to ever use open loop idle. Because it's useless and silly and you run into issues like this.
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:32 PM
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Won’t i be locked out of closed loop/enter too early due to not having a tps?
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:35 PM
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Not necessarily. I've tuned a 1.6 before without a proper tps and got CL idle to work just fine.
Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:39 PM
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Hmm i’ll give it another shot tonight. Just wasn’t too fond of how quickly revs dropped during shifting.. then again, maybe it’s because i’m used to to the shift *raise 100rpm* *wait* shift.
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