Running way hot after R7 delete
Are there any certain EasyTherm therm settings that need to be used when you remove R7 on the megasquirt? Before I was using the settings from the EasyTherm thread and the MS CLT was about 10-20 degrees off. (on the Cool Side) Now I have the problem where my megasquirt CLT seems to be spot on but the OEM sensor thinks things are cold. So now fans aren't coming on and as a result I had a nice little bit of coolant leakage today. (wonder if that's going to cause me some problems down the line now... hmmm)
Anyway, any clues? |
removing the resistor shouldn't have done anything to effect when the fans switch on. Since the ECU controls the switch, and you removed a resistor that was actually altering the signal, all should be as it was now.
idle the car and wait for them to turn on, they should come on close to 210, something like that. |
Yeah I know that it wouldn't affect the point at which fans would come on, what I'm wondering is if there's anything around removing that resistor or EasyTherm settings that would cause the ECU to see the temp as lower than it is and as a result not kick on the fans (so even though the MS is reading 214 or what have you, the ECU is seeing 180 or something where the fans wouldn't be switching on)
If that makes sense. I seem to recall AussieDriver or someone mentioning that when you piggy back on the CLT wire it affects both readings if you don't do the right things. |
with the resistor installed it should have screwed up the stock ecu's readings...
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The coolant leak may be the culprit. When I had a coolant leak in my Altima the fans turned on whenever they felt like it completely unrelated to actual engine temp.
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Hmmm, yeah it used to do that. I wanna say I fixed that with EasyTherm - but I could be totally off there. Do you still have to futz with EasyTherm when you remove R7? I may just need to go back to stock MSnS-E if not since they're certainly futzed with.
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When you perform the easytherm update did you combine the defaults of the GM AIT and RX7 CLT?
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt. The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 176640)
The coolant leak may be the culprit. When I had a coolant leak in my Altima the fans turned on whenever they felt like it completely unrelated to actual engine temp.
I had smelled something about halfway through my tuning run, but I was driving by a construction site and I couldn't place the smell so I didn't think anything of it. Over heating would cause a leak wouldn't it? Seemed to stop when it cooled down. |
Easytherm affects ONLY the MS. The Stock ECU doesn't give a crap what MS settings are used. You have another problem, check you radiator cap and/or pressure test your cooling system.
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Originally Posted by sotaku
(Post 176643)
Over heating would cause a leak wouldn't it? Seemed to stop when it cooled down. In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as fuck and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 176642)
When you perform the easytherm update did you combine the defaults of the GM AIT and RX7 CLT?
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt. The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor. -4F 16200 86F 2450 176F 384 settings for the CLT. I guess it looks like I need to go back and reflash that sucker with the GM/RX7 combo. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 176648)
Stops because the pressure drops in the system and doesnt force the fluid out. But if you dont maintain pressure in your coolant system it will cause erratic behavior with the fans.
In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as fuck and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared. |
Originally Posted by sotaku
(Post 176657)
oh yeah, dur, pressurized system. haha... Hmmm, well this gives me some stuff to start looking at. I have a brand new radiator so I hope it isn't that.
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Originally Posted by sotaku
(Post 176655)
Good info there. Right now I'm running AussieDriver's
-4F 16200 86F 2450 176F 384 settings for the CLT. I guess it looks like I need to go back and reflash that sucker with the GM/RX7 combo. When you enter the defaults, keep in mind that the GM defaults are all in fahrenhiet and the mazda def are in centigrade so enter it correctly. You can also use Aussie drivers numbers, but be sure to select the appropriate scale. I just realized I entered the values for the CLT in centigrade but didnt chose fahrenhiet in easytherm. |
Yep you need to get your systems pressure issues sorted. Or you will get steam and steam is bad for cooling the motor.
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 176901)
Yep you need to get your systems pressure issues sorted. Or you will get steam and steam is bad for cooling the motor.
Happy Thanksgiving and get some sleep:) |
Nah I work 3rd shift so after i got off on wensday morning i stayed up till about 4 pm and then slept till 4am i should be on normal time now. Thanks for the concern though.
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I'd replace the heater hoses to start.
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Originally Posted by kingofl337
(Post 176917)
I'd replace the heater hoses to start.
Wonderful. At least I know where the leak is now! =( |
A bit off topic, but which CLT values are more accurate the Easytherm RX7 defaults or the ones Aussie Driver put up?
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