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Old 05-27-2016, 08:38 PM   #21
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I ordered the flow force 610cc injectors with the plug harness. I also ordered the AEM wideband. I'm just waiting on Braineak to message me back so we can close the deal.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe morreale View Post
I ordered the flow force 610cc injectors with the plug harness. I also ordered the AEM wideband. I'm just waiting on Braineak to message me back so we can close the deal.
It will probably be another week or two before he gets back to you as he is currently out of the country.

Getting the flow force injectors are a wise choice, they are a biyore expensive then the rx8, but overall quality is much higher. Below I will list the steps to successfully boost a miata for reliability on a stock motor. It's not the cheapest way to do it, but it will give you the least headaches.

1. Buy a MS3 of some sort and a wideband. Learn to tune the motor naturally aspirated.
2. Buy flowforce or id1000 injectors and install and re-tune fuel.
3. Buy and install a fm1 clutch, or an act clutch. I reccomend the fm1 due to being cheaper and holding more torque then the act. Do a proper break in.
4. Buy a good quality turbo setup. Fm/begi/Tse/mkturbo are where you should be looking. All 4 of those make quality hotside parts, cost varies between them but all will work. It just comes down to how much you want to do yourself verse having everything come being ready for install.
5. Enjoy a reliable 200-240whp miata on a stock motor.
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:26 AM   #23
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Thanks for letting me know of Braineak's whereabouts. I plan on doing this project for reliability and power. I want to use all new parts. I'm most likely going to go with the MK turbo, because of price. After getting the MS my funds will be low so it will be a while before I can move on. This gives me time to learn how to tune NA.
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Old 05-28-2016, 01:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by joe morreale View Post
Thanks for letting me know of Braineak's whereabouts. I plan on doing this project for reliability and power. I want to use all new parts. I'm most likely going to go with the MK turbo, because of price. After getting the MS my funds will be low so it will be a while before I can move on. This gives me time to learn how to tune NA.
Have you shot me an email yet? Right now I am currently backed up on getting setups built till probably the end of the year. I have a few more I need to get finished, then have a waiting list of 10-15 people.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:29 AM   #25
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My Force Flow injectors came in yesterday. Even though I'm not going to need them for a while I guess I should open the box to see the all the parts are there. In the big picture I might have used the cash more wisely and bought a clutch first. Oh well.
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:15 AM   #26
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(Sound of head beating on wall) Sometimes I think I'll never learn. I ordered a 3 gauge faceplate from ebay. Doesn't even come close to fitting. I should know better. I ordered this one. I was going to install my wideband and realized that I gave myself obstacles. 2 layers of glued metal back insulation, jute then the carpet, under the seat. Thinking if I poke a hole from underneath I can find where to cut away the insulation to get to the O2 sensor plug and detach it. Going to use the cigarette lighter for power and ground for AFR gauge. Yes i will put 10 amp fuse in line.

MossMiata.com - Parts & Accessories for Your Mazda Miata

I'm looking at these gauges and think I will get them to fill the faceplate.

Auto Meter Phantom water temp gauge
Auto Meter Phantom Boost 0-35 PSI

Is the oem water temp sender capable of giving me real temps with a real gauge? Is there a sending unit that will work? I saw this but really want one more OEM looking.

Water Temp Sender Adapter, Radiator hose

I have a side job which should give me enough coin to buy the clutch. Hopefully I can get the MS made soon. It will be awhile after for me to come up with enough money for the MK turbo kit. Curious







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Old 06-08-2016, 10:55 AM   #27
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I always run my wideband through the shifter turret hole. I notched the hard ring around the bottom of the shift boot, run wiring under the notched boot and bolt the boot back down. The sensor wiring comes out right around the second O2 bung and it's super easy/lazy for running the wiring, locating a power source, and getting back up to the center console for the gauge.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #28
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I've waited 3 weeks and no answer from Braieak. I have decided to go in another direction. Trackspeed Engineering has Reverant built units on the shelf. They have knock control and are about $100 more than what i was expecting but I'm going to buy today. I was impressed that my questions were responded to in less than 5 minutes. They gave me some tech info as well. With delivery of this i'll have my wideband, AFR, injectors and MS. Should be ready to start working and learning how to tune.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:30 AM   #29
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Got the MS installed last weekend, along with the wideband, gauge and force flow injectors. Pdexta got me going with a good tune and afr numbers. Car runs a lot stronger all through the power range. I'm now fiddling around try to get the start and idling values dialed in. You guys that know how to tune really have my respect. There is so much information to be accountable for.

Any feedback from anybody that has used autotune? If I can't get my start and idle problems figured I might try that. I have a good tune for running now, so I'm not convinced that I really need it.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:46 AM   #30
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You can't autotune idle. It is only to be used when you are actually driving. Generally most people set it to start auto-tuning above 1500rpms or so.

Tuning idle is a lot of trial and error over a good number of days.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:09 AM   #31
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You can't autotune idle. It is only to be used when you are actually driving. Generally most people set it to start auto-tuning above 1500rpms or so.

Tuning idle is a lot of trial and error over a good number of days.
That's pretty much what I thought. I'll just keep banging my head against the wall until I get it right. I think I'm headed in the right direction. At least it will start, with some throttle, and idle, after a minute or so. I've been experimenting with priming pulse and cranking pulse, at this time. The car runs well, with a good fuel map otherwise.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:07 AM   #32
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I finally got the car to cold start, idle up and idle pretty good. With the closed loop setting it only oscillates a little idling with the ac on. I still have to touch the gas pedal any time to start.When it's hot I think it might be flooding. Won't start right away. Wait a minute and it starts hard and runs rich for a minute. I'm posting my idle settings. If anybody has any suggestions I will give it a shot. I'm at the point of leaving it alone. Tired of messing with stuff that I'm unfamiliar with. Otherwise runs strong and still gets almost 28mpg if i'm nice.






















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Old 11-21-2016, 02:42 PM   #33
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It's been a while so I thought I would update this thread.

I installed a 52mm Mishimoto radiator. I got an AEM water temp gauge. I used a splice to install the sensor on the front hose, thinking that the bottom hose would get too hot from the turbo. Temps are off by 8-10 degrees. I'm going to find the piece from the back of the head, where the oem sensor is at and tap it for the AEM sensor.

I installed my Flyin miata clutch kit. It has a noticeable different feel from oem. Should handle the power I'm looking for.

I though the car was running pretty good when i found that I put in the wrong injector dead time. I had .9. Should have (and now is) 1.12. Leaned out the cranking pulse and it finally starts without any throttle.

I do have an issue with a high idle. If I try to lower it with fuel, I go too lean. It's hanging around 1250 rpms. Pulling timing back doesn't do much, so I left it at 14 at idle. Closed loop is working, when I have ac on. It idles at 1100 rpms. I've tried the search for idle adjustment and went through the manual. I can't get it any lower. If anybody could post a link on how to do this I would appreciate it.

I was going to buy and install intercooler and piping next. After looking at a couple NBs I decided that I probably would do better to put IC in after turbo is in. I don't know where to run the pipes without it there. I guess I'll plan on the car being down for a week. I hate taking of the bumper and I only want to do it once. In maybe a month I'm going to send the deposit to MK Turbo. I know I won't get it until sometime in 2017, but I need to commit the funds or they will dwindle. That's it for now.
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Old 11-21-2016, 02:50 PM   #34
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You can do all the cold side IC pipe and mount the intercooler before you turbo. That part is relatively easy and won't really change no matter what setup you have. NigelT an Sonofhtehill build threads are where you should be looking for ideas on doing the hot side intercooler plumbing.
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Old 11-21-2016, 02:52 PM   #35
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What are your IAC duty cycle settings?
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:05 PM   #36
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I am a noob. Is this what you are asking me for? This is the original base setting. Do I have the idle valve on the wrong setting?

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Old 11-22-2016, 08:30 AM   #37
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There should be another idle settings menu that allows input for duty cycles for the IAC valve. Here's mine, yours will be different because mine is an MS1, but it will have some of the same kinds of inputs.

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Old 11-22-2016, 12:00 PM   #38
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I guess I'm too much of a noob. I can't find any settings in my ms3 (from Trackspeed) for PWM idle control. Can anybody lead me in the right direction?
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:58 PM   #39
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What firmware are you on? You probably want to be on 1.4 or 1.4.1 and nothing older then that.

These are all of my CL idle settings on my 94 with a VVT motor. They should give you some idea of what is needed. The settings were tuned by Braineack around the start of September and worked pretty well. I am not sure if Reverant does things differently on his MS's though. I know by default he ships them using open loop idle, and I don't know if he has any hardware mods to work with AC and such.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:19 PM   #40
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Reverent uses custom firmware that should not be upgraded, from what I think I remember.
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