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-   -   Tach signal with standalone MSI (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/tach-signal-standalone-msi-17138/)

cjernigan 02-17-2008 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by magnamx-5 (Post 215668)
I wonder if i will have an issue using my recently aquired millenia coils with built in ignitors and not being able to get a tach signal?

You have the FSM diagram right? Post it up or something and we'll look at it. Maybe they have four pins (1 for tach) just like the miata and toyota coils.

magnamx-5 02-17-2008 05:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 214494
pic
manual from another forum
http://members.cox.net/sciberpunkt/images/cop-2.jpg

Joe Perez 02-17-2008 05:31 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack
I'm almost positive it's the same deal with the 1.6Ls and standalone. The b/w tach signal from the coils should have 1V provided to it, else the signal cant power the tach on the dash....


Originally Posted by j_man
Yes https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/../...lies/smile.gif the '94-'95 is the exact same thing as the '90-'93. The stock ECU does the pull-up.

It definitely ain't the same as the 1.6s if that's the case. The 1.6 igniter has a black/white wire coming out of it that feeds back to the ECU, however the tach signal is a yellow/blue wire which goes from the igniter to the tachometer and the diagnostic connector. On my car (MS, full standalone) I left the yellow/blue wire alone (still goes from igniter to tachometer) however my black/white wire is completely disconnected.

cjernigan 02-17-2008 05:48 PM

So this should work right guys?
http://i28.tinypic.com/fk4ole.png

Braineack 02-17-2008 05:57 PM

yeah or just try it in the diagnostic box, -IG to the 12v source +B

neogenesis2004 02-17-2008 05:59 PM

I haven't hooked up my tach for over a year, the rev limit in MS will stop me if I've gone too far....I can go by sound to give me a rough ball park anyways.

j_man 02-17-2008 06:43 PM


Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 215729)
It definitely ain't the same as the 1.6s if that's the case. The 1.6 igniter has a black/white wire coming out of it that feeds back to the ECU, however the tach signal is a yellow/blue wire which goes from the igniter to the tachometer and the diagnostic connector. On my car (MS, full standalone) I left the yellow/blue wire alone (still goes from igniter to tachometer) however my black/white wire is completely disconnected.

Then is the external ignitor of the NA6 doing the pullup and not the ECU?



j_man 02-17-2008 06:47 PM


Originally Posted by magnamx-5 (Post 215728)
pic
manual from another forum

IGF is your tach signal. You'll need a pull-up

paul 02-17-2008 07:02 PM


Originally Posted by cjernigan (Post 215737)
So this should work right guys?
http://i28.tinypic.com/fk4ole.png

add that pic to the archives for standalone MSI in a 94-95 cuz it fucking worked. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book. :bowdown:


WOOT!

cjernigan 02-17-2008 07:17 PM

I'm just glad there are some smart guys on here that can figure this stuff out. Good job guys.

magnamx-5 02-17-2008 07:49 PM


Originally Posted by j_man (Post 215752)
IGF is your tach signal. You'll need a pull-up

hmm i guess i got more reading to do then. Chad what is a pull-up?

cjernigan 02-17-2008 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by magnamx-5 (Post 215769)
hmm i guess i got more reading to do then. Chad what is a pull-up?

The idea of a pullup resistor is that it weakly "pulls" the voltage of the wire it's connected to towards 5V (or whatever voltage represents a logic "high"). However, the resistor is intentionally weak (high-resistance) enough that, if something else strongly pulls the wire toward 0V, the wire will go to 0V. An example of something that would strongly pull a wire to 0V would be the transistor in an open-collector output.

paul 02-17-2008 08:21 PM

thanks for clearing that up

elesjuan 02-17-2008 11:03 PM


Originally Posted by paul (Post 215756)
add that pic to the archives for standalone MSI in a 94-95 cuz it fucking worked. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book. :bowdown:


WOOT!

Son of a bitch.. :fawk:

Anyone happen to locate the pin on the 1995.5 tach wire on the boomslang? :mad: Position 2I has no wire on my cars ECU harness. I'm guessing but haven't had ANY time to check it out, but I'm guessing that its position 1F because my documentation shows its not used but I think theres actually a wire there.

grippgoat 02-18-2008 04:35 AM

You already fixed your problem, but I just want to feel important. :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9723

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10921

-Mike

paul 02-18-2008 08:00 AM

yeah, thats what Chad was reading when he told me what to do. he was referring to you here:


Originally Posted by cjernigan (Post 215759)
I'm just glad there are some smart guys on here that can figure this stuff out. Good job guys.


Braineack 02-18-2008 10:21 AM

wow i was right for once. now i feel cool. im glad i can regurgitate things out and sound all-knowing.

olderguy 02-20-2008 06:40 AM


Originally Posted by paul (Post 215756)
. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book. :bowdown:


WOOT!

Where the fuck did that come from?

paul 02-20-2008 07:26 AM


Originally Posted by olderguy (Post 216992)
Where the fuck did that come from?

Have I been hanging around Louis too much?

sabretooth 02-20-2008 08:22 AM

For the benefit of other owners, I just BLK/WHI to 12v via a 1000ohm resistor, and I now have a working tacho. That saved me from having to duplicate the circuit I used to provide a working tach for my Haltech.


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