So last week I did a few datalogs with my car, and I got it to run really good. It sat in the garage for a few days, and then I drove it the other day. It still ran good. Then I took this dude for a rip in it, and I hit like 13psi? Ever since then it seems to be running with the AFR's all over the place. Before it would hold pretty steady when cruising, like 14.5ish. Now it'll cruise at 14.5ish, then jump up to around 15.5, then down to around 12.5. My cylinder head has leaky valves. I know this cause I leak down tested it, due to an oil consumption issue, but I got it tuned pretty good for the valve leak issue. Could the sudden jump in AFR's be caused by a vacuum leak, such as an intercooler coupling that could be loose? I just don't get how the car could run so good for a few days, and then run like a bag of **** a week later.

 

its not the tune. something is wrong with your car.

 

reset, not recalibrate, the LC-1.

then, if the problem persists:
check your ego settings
flash firmware
measure the sensors and run easytherm

 

I had something that resembled your problem until my most recent reflash.

Check your .msq's signature, see if it has garbage in it. You may have corrupted firmware, in which case you get screwy sensor values. If so, hustler hit the nail on the head...run easytherm.

Did the change in tune coincide with ANY connection with your controller? This could have been just changing a setting or doing a datalog/VE analysis. If so, did you get any warnings when booting MT?


EDIT: Corrupted firmware is about like crabs...very contagious, very hard to get rid of, and a real itchy bitch to boot.

 

I know that the AFR gauge on MT is a little different than what my AFR gauge on the dash reads. My coolant in MT reads 215 when the car is totally up to temp, and my IAT usually reads about 114. So to re-flash, I need to pop off the pain in the *** coil plug which is in an awesome location on my car. What if I just splice quick connecting plugs in my parallel harness for the coil wires?

 

Don't forget the ignitor!!11!1

 

just how much oil is it consuming? if it's burning oil that can throw off your afr readings as well.

 

FYI, a blown off coupler on the intercooler piping isn't a vacuum leak. Vacuum leak is after the throttlebody.

 

I figured that an intercooler leak wouldn't change anything, it did with my stock computer, cause that ran the MAF, but MS is different. So a firmware reburn should do it huh? As for the ignitor, my car is a 99 so all I should need to worry about that. Only the 2 coil wires that go in the parallel harness, or the pain in the *** to get to clips on the back of the engine.

 

So I started the car up today and drove it around the block after it was fully warmed up, it seemed to run ok. To reply to previous responses:
1) How do you reset the LC-1? I never hooked up the little red button and LED, and isn't that to recalibrate anyway?
2) How can you tell if the .msq's signature has garbage in it?
I really don't think this is a firmware issue, but a lot of you guys know better than me, so I am going to keep that suggestion on the table. As for EGO correction, I have the controller step size percentage at 0, and authority at +/- 10. Active above 160 degrees and 1500RPM. So since step size is 0, the MS shouldn't be changing anything, meaning it should only run off the VE table values, correct?

 

LC-1: Connect laptop to Innovative controller using the stereo jack. Open LM-Programmer. Set up output 2 to 0-5v 10-20 linear.

SIGNATURE: File>Msq Info

If you see crap like this, where the far right column doesn't all read the same firmware type, you've got the crabs.

 

I've flashed firmware and successfully fixed a problem before.

LC-1 calibrations and reset are 2 different things. I recommend you hook up the button and light because it displays valuable information. Read the LC-1 manual for the reset procedure.

 

For anybody interested, this could be the solution to my issue... https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34289/