Hello, I am currently planning on turboing my 96 Miata. I got a fully Kraken Turbo Kit with the GT2560R with all necessary supporting mods. I just wanted to come on here to see if I could get any pointers or recommendations regarding spark maps, electronic boost control tuning, and changing fuel settings for 700cc Botch injectors and a 255 DW fuel pump. All and any help is appreciated, or if you guys know any good tuners in the DFW area.

Thank you!

 

What ECU? Where’s the base map coming from? Built motor or stock? 5speed or 6-speed?

 

Stock motor, MS3PNP, not sure where to get the base map (guessing one of the forums), 5-speed

 

Already have come to a road block, I’ve installed the Bosch 700cc EV14 injectors that are supplied in the kraken Miata kit and the car is idling really rough. I changed the req fuel and the CC per injector which I’ve heard should have scaled my VE tables. But my idle VE table I had to bump up to 90-100 values for the car to start and run. But it feels like the car is misfiring. I’m guessing it’s an issue with the deadtime and sadly kraken doesn’t supply that information. I have also not been able to find anything online regarding to these injectors. If anyone has any pointers that would be extremely appreciated.

 

If you can find the part number that is printed on the side of them, you could likely find better information than just googling their size.

Edit: if they are 0 280 158 235, i found this info on a MoTeC forum:

 

Perfect, much appreciated. I was able to get the car running good and my VE map only changed a little. Already got the injectors in, wired up my boost gauge, now I’m installing the full exhaust system.

 

I've almost never been able to put new injectors in and not retune the entire fuel table. Especially if going from OE injectors to EV14 ID1050x/FF650 etc. They typically have larger idle VE numbers, for whatever reasons, I've seen this on Links and MS, and with simple dead time numbers provided from FF or full tables entered directly from ID.

The pump shouldn't affect anything until you enter higher boost, where the stock pump will fall off. If you've already tuned your car for higher boost and compensated for the stock pump's low pressure at high loads, you'll have to retune that area. Also, a 255 will typically over whelm the OE FPR, so if you're still running it, you'll have higher fuel pressure at low loads (ie: idle), causing a rich condition, so again that area would have to be re-tuned.

I'd highly suggest a quality 0-100psi or 0-150psi fuel pressure sensor be installed and wired to your ECU so you can log it.

 

Ok, so would it not be worth it to install a fuel pump if I’m only going to be pushing 6-8psi of boost? Also where should I get a solid spark map, boost duty map, and any guidance for boost tuning?
Thanks!

 

I’m pretty sure the stock fuel pump will be plenty for the stock bottom end if that’s what you’re asking. Once you go to a built bottom end a fuel pump is just a drop in the bucket. I think others have approached or gone just over 300whp on the stock pump with pump gas.

 

Ok, gotcha. Thanks!

Now I have come to another problem (hopefully my last). I can’t get my intercooler piping to fit with the throttle body, blowoff valve, and vacuum connector. I attached a photo of what it looks like right now. I’m also having some hood clearance issues as this is the top joint version.
Thank you!

 

OK, I was able to cram it all in there and I ended up cutting two of the supports for my fan. Do you guys think that this will cause any issues with the current tightness and pressure I have on the hoses? Should I be worried about a hose busting off or anything rubbing?

 

I'd toss that fan before you have to replace your radiator because of it. Get a slimmer one to replace it if you need it for AC (looks like yes, you need it for AC). The 90* elbow is usually trimmed to be as short as possible off the throttle body, if it isn't already, cut it so there's only ~1/2" of straight section, slip that onto the throttle body, clamp it, and install your charge pipe. Do all this with an NB throttle body/iac/tps, and you don't have to use the IAC hose. Install it without the AC fan, and once in and tight, you'll have an idea of how much room you have for the AC fan.

 

Ok, I’ll go ahead and remove the AC fan until I can get a thinner one. Should I be worried about overheating without the secondary fan? I’m assuming you’re saying to replace the NA throttle body with the NB throttle body? Where would the piping connect to instead?

 

If I were to get new fans what would you recommend? Maybe the Stage 1 Flyin Miata airflow kit. Another question I have is I went ahead and got everything started with the car and it runs great but had a small oil leak at the oil feed line fitting. On the 3-way port where should I put teflon tape if any? It came from how I bought it with the fitting with Teflon tape.