Fill in the hole with a welder and grind back.

Funny enough, the Evo IX has a whopping 2-teeth crank wheel. Yes, two.

In 2011, when we first built the 12+1 wheel we used with the AEM, we took a 12-tooth wheel out of stock, ground the coating off, welded a blob of material onto it in approximately the right place, and then shaped the profile with a 4.5" grinder and a Dremel. It worked perfectly.

Thought about JB weld to fill in the gap. Only concern is whether the magnetic properties of JB weld would be similar enough to mimic the steel wheel to correctly trigger the sensor. I was told they are sending it back because it is a manufacturing defect. Would have been a fun experiment, but not something a shop really has time to mess with.

Yep. Shit happens when manufacturing. It sounds like it is being taken care of in a timely fashion.

Long term solution: Whoever does your CAD models/drafting needs to specify where the lead in point should be (i.e. the valley) when working with lasers/water jet equipment. That prevents the, "you didn't tell us we couldn't" issue.

Received a new wheel next-day thanks to 949's quick response and shipping. On quick inspection, all edges on the new wheel looked a little sharper. I wonder if the first one I received was a setup piece the operator dubbed "good enough". Been there, done that. Then again, the damaged one had been installed/uninstalled and tossed around my tool box, so maybe I was just noticing fresh paint. New wheel started the engine immediately. Had 3 sync losses fairly quickly while I bleed the coolant system (zero hicups noticed) and did final leak checks, but then on a spirited drive around down saw zero sync losses. I'll keep an eye on that but for now very happy!