vvt tuner wiring help!
 

I'm hoping I can get some help quick. I'm pretty bad at wiring. So help is appreciated.

Looking at the diagrams I think I can tap into all the sensor wires except the power wires? Or can I tap the power wires too? I ask because the vvt tuner diagram only as 1 12v input and the rest of power wires are labeled as outputs.

Hopefully I'm making sense and not sounding stupid

what car, what engine? My VVTuner is running on my 94 car so the wiring is completely independant of the engines.....Sorry, not much help

01. I wired directly to the sensors but wasn't sure it I just cut the original power wire and soldered one to it from the vvt tuner only or if I can tap to the power wire.

I feel like I did this a dumb way.

why are you using VVTuner with 01 car?

Because turbo and megasquirt and my megasquirt can't control vvt and not controlling makes it suck

awwww, I see the picture now.
I think you are fine to tap into the sensors. Is the megasquirt using the input from those sensors? The VVTuner manual talks about doing this. It is on the DIY website, I remember reading it but since it did not apply to my situation I didn't pay attention to it. I am sure you can find the information you want there. Good luck!

Thanks, I suck at wiring and apparently searching. I find the diyautotune site in general to be pretty tough to navigate, but I am a noob.

yeah, it is not the best and I am right there with you......I printed out a book and read it a hundred times before I did my VVTunner install. I hope you get it worked out.....

I've been going over it for awhile. Then the person soldering decided we should just tap into the wires...then I saw the input output thing and got worried. I'm not trying to over power stuff.

Hmmm could it be I'm an idiot (I know I am) and I should've just left the power wires alone? Because they're still getting power so I don't need to power them via the vvt tuner?

I'm pretty sure that I didn't need to f with the power wires. I totally forgot it was designed for putting vvt engines in cars that didn't have vvt so there is no connection to the main harness for it and therefore the unit would need to provide power to the sensors...

I need help like mad bad. Unit gets power. However when the key is in the acc postion you can hear an audible click of something switching in the engine bay. Additionally the lights flickered when this clicking happened.

Here's how the unit is setup.
12v in with 5amp fuse
System ground
Crankshaft signal input
Camshaft signal input
The two wires going to the oil control valve

The car will not turn on. It just cranks and does a weird little stutter thing sometimes. The unit also got hot. When starting the car after unplugging the unit it was a little hesitant at first but after a second it seemed to be alright.

I'm really confused any help would be very appreciated.

how about you post what wires (with colors) you have exactly where on the harness?

maybe like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...99-vvtuner-jpg

That's not a nb2 miata harness is it? I pulled the cam and crank sensor signal directly from the wires off the sensors because I'm stupid. Same thing with the ocv I have the wires from the sensor pigtail. Ill work on getting a fancy picture like that.

So I was fooling with the car again tonight...annnnd the unit started to melt. So I'm a lot a bit confused. I've emailed DIY to see what they say.

Update for everyone.

I received my replacement vvt tuner unit. I then soldiered on the cup connector myself this time. I didn't get to try and fire it up. But I did let it sit with power to the unit for a little and it didn't seem to get hot like it did last time. My issues may have been from the pretty crappy soldier job on the connecter. When I pulled it apart one wired wasn't even really attached and it looked like some of the soldier was actually connecting the power input with another pin...So hopefully my issues will be gone. I shall report back with results.

No luck. The unit still gets extremely hot when I try to start the car with it attached.

Edit: I'm going to triple check all my signal wires again. As well as pull power from somewhere else and ground somewhere else. I might even pull the signal for the crank and cam sensors from somewhere else too.

Ok I need help... So I checked my power and ground. It gets 12v when the ignition is on. When I crank it drops to about 9v and then goes to ~14.5v when the car is running. I'm kinda dumb is it ok that its 14v after the car is running or is that bad?

Also when I stop cranking the car (with the unit plugged in) it starts clicking and flicking the gauges like if you've ever started a car that has a wet battery, how all the stuff will flicker and what not.

I can post exactly how I have it wired but Ben said it looked good.

sounds normal.


how exactly/where do you have it wired?

It turns out I made a wiring mistake... It was getting to much power. Fixed it and it didn't fire but it also didn't get stupid hot either

I'm just going to redo my whole little harness. Also might try a different vacuum source (I tee'd in where my boost gauge and map sensor get vac from).

This is so embarrassing face palm to the max.

Ok so I have it wired up right.

I have the crank and cam sensor signals in. OCV in and 12v out, and power and ground.

Now I cant get the car to start. I have it the vvt tuner in NB pass thru trigger out put. My current settings for idle are pwm warmup. I've also tried putting it in closed loop always on with no luck.

Any idea's? Thanks...

Ok here's exactly how I have it wired. Ben said it was ok but I just found a thread where brain walked through it and I might have done it wrong?

I have it as follows.
This is what I'm not sure I did right after reading EO2K's thread
Pins 1, 2, 9, 10. Open because I'm not inputting it to the ecu, nor am I even sure which wires I would need to splice into to do so.

Pin 3 Signal in from camshaft sensor

Pin 4 Signal in from crankshaft sensor

Pins 5, 6, 11, 12, 13. Open because the car is a 2001 so the sensor are already powered and grounded

Pin 7 12V input on durning cranking and when the engine is running. I took this from what used to power the OCV with the stock ecu, via 5amp fuse.

Pin 14 Ground also taken from the crankshaft sensor.

Pins 8, 15. Wired into the OCV.

I'm at my wits end. I wired it as brain and rev suggested in this thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...nms-ecu-69111/).

It will not start. I tried changing my idle settings, that did nothing.
Not sure where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.

what does the composite log look like during cranking?

Sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by this? Like a log from megasquirt or from the vvt tuner software?

TS, diagnostics tab, capture log to file, start, crank for like 20 sec, stop.

post the csv file and a screen shot.

remove VVT tuner and do the same.

Thank you will do.

Ok it wont take a datalog with the vvt attached. I give it a file name, hit save, hit start, crank, stop then nothing. Also my computer is old and not taking screenshots it looked like a bunch of vertical lines without/vvt and with it was nothing

Also if I plug the unit in the with car running it immediately shuts off

no vvt.csv looks good and normal, really need to see it with the VVTuner plugged in. Why can't it log with it attached, the MS has no idea, unless you've introduced a ground fault and are shorting out the system and the MS is not powering up.

Ill change my power and ground again tonight and see if that helps. For clarity though should my idle settings mess up where or not it will work right? Because I know its a closed loop vvt controller I wasn't sure if I needed a closed loop idle control.

no.

but the VVTuner shares or sends the ckp/cmp signals, so that could easily prevent the MS to work if it cant figure out the crank and cam positions any longer.

so that's why i want to see what the composite log looks like with the VVTuner attached, to see if the MS is getting the correct singals, to be able to even sync.

Still no luck. I've come to the conclusion that I've fried something on vvt tuner itself. Not sure what to do as I don't think DIY is going to replace it again...

Ok so I've been looking at the circuit board its self with a buddy. He noticed that this jumper labeled "BOOT" was not on both pins as shown in these pictures. Should I try it with the jumper on both pins?

As it was found
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366133346
IMAG0571 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Should it be like this?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366133346
IMAG0570 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

No, don't put the boot jumper on.

Ok. Well I found a thread on mnet that the guy had to change something in the megasquirt to get it to start. I'm going to check voltage out of pins one and two later. Also we were thinking it could be that big centiped looking thing

rofl.

yes, he had to change a pull up because of sharing the sensors.

this is why i want to see your crank and cam signals with the VVTuner attached.

It gives literally nothing. It shows nothing when cranking and won't save. So I figure I f'd up the board somehow. Everything looks ok and that caterpillar thing is like 0.80$ so I can afford to replace it

is this a DIYPNP?

No its an ms2 built by reverant

Edit: maybe? Idk. I didn't think they made a diypnp for 01+?

it's gotta be how you wired it.

Are you just tapped into the CMP/CKP or are you going into the VVTuner then back to the MS?

can you take pics of the harness and where you took your signals from?

this is an 01 with factory VVT?



yes, they have a diypnp for 01-05 now.

Yes I can take pics. Yes 01 with factory vvt.
It goes crank sensor (ckp) to pin 4. Then pin 2 wired to 3Y. Not tapped. I removed the taps because diy told me to, to be sure I had a viable signal. I have the cam sensor (cmp) to pin 3 and pin 1 to 3V

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/83025184@N07/8655093857/

That's a link to a drawing of my setup

Rather than a diagram of what you did, can we instead see a pic of what you actually did?

mobile link not wokring here.

Yes but I won't be home for another hour. I'm posting from my phone now and I will get better links

yeah you will! if you know whats good for you.

Ok here is the crank signal (purple white to white), OCV 12v in (yellow w/blue heat shrink), and OCV input (white to purple yellow)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0579 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Here is the cam shaft signal
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0576_BURST002_COVER by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Here is all the garbage I disconnected (cmp, ckp to ecu, 12v into OCV, OCV input)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0577 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Here is my connector
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0583 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

5amp fuse in my power line
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0584 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Grounds tied together
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0585 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Power
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0588 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Ground and ckp and cmp back into the ecu
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366146988
IMAG0590 by Gorillazfan, on Flickr

Here's a megalog because it wont composite log during cranking with vvt's attached

Edity edit:

In my one picture you can see my quick connect crap things. I did this because I was hoping to leave the wires soldered together so I can switch and unplug, which I will have to do once a year for emissions. Thats also why I originally just tapped the wires and hoped I could share the signal.

I took a video for you fellas. I didn't realize how awful my phone quality was.

I put the car back to a drivable state last night (where I have the sensors shared). I tried starting it and it of course did not start(with vvt attached). Is it possible that something is internally damaged despite still powering up and connecting with my pc?

I have more questions like did I fubar my OCV. So Ben told me to measure voltage at pin 8 and 15. With the ocv unplugged I got 1.25-1.75v at pin 8. At pin 15 I got 12.3v.

When I plugged it in I got no volts from either.

I then tested resistance across the ocv. I swear I saw it change but could not get it to do it again. Does no resistance mean I broke it?

Edity edit: I'm not sure my ammeter goes low enough to measure resistance. Or there is an issue with it. It never drops below one and the lowest setting for measuring ohm's is 200

Yeah I'm going to try another multimeter today because last night I hooked power up to the ocv and it opened and closed just fine.

Ok I'm back to thinking the box is broke or something. I measured resistance on the OCV today with a different multimeter and it was around 8.0 ohms and I believe its supposes to be ~7.5ohms

i think it's your wiring.

I will redo it again this weekend. With hopes of being as cool as you.

i could like draw exactly how where to hook it up.

You could, because you're brain. You're drawing was much more professional looking then my whiteboard attempt.

Here bro.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1366484126

Pin 1 - CUT from OEM Harness, GY/L wire, 3V
Pin 2 - CUT from OEM Harness, V/W wire, 3Y
Pin 3 - Wire to the ECU side of the cut wire, GY/L, 3V
Pin 4 - Wire to the ECU side of the cut wire, V/W, 3Y

Pin 8 - To V/R wire, 4R
Pin 15 - To Y wire, 4D

Pins 14 & 9, to B wire, 3A

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. If you're ever in central PA and need anything I'm your man...

Here's a really stupid question. On you're drawing you have pin 1 oriented so it's at the right side. Is that just how you drew it? Because looking at my connector, from the side the wires go into. Its number 1-8. 1 being on the very left. I assumed the numbers corresponded to the numbers on the connector. However looking at diy's drawing they also have it oriented the same way you do.

Also my unit is plug and play so I'm not sure whats mean by to MS. because my plugs to my oem ecu are the same as the MS. And by "from OEM harness" do you mean from the sensor end of the oem harness or from the ecu of the oem wiring harness.

Clearly the issue is megasquirt isn't getting a crank or cam signal and therefore will not fire when cranking.

If I understand this correctly it should be.
3Y cut in half. The sensor half to pin 4, the ecu half to pin 2
3V cut in half. The sensor half to pin 3, the ecu half to pin 1

That's assuming I have all of the other wires correct. ( I know I do) I get proper voltages across pins 8 and 15 and good resistance across the OCV.

Heres what I've tried;

Sensors shared:
pin 4 tapped to 3Y
pin 3 tapped to 3V

I haven't tried flipping these wires yet, but I will. Though I'm under the impression that I have to change a resistor pull up on the megasquirt.

Pass through:
CKP sensor signal wire direct to pin 4
CMP sensor signal wire direct to pin 3
Pin 2 directly into 3Y
Pin 1 directly into 3V

In pass through I've also tried switching pin 2 into 3V and pin 1 into 3Y to be sure I didn't have it flipped.

In pass through I've also tried
switching CKP sensor directly into pin 2
switching CMP sensor directly into pin 1
Pin 4 directly to 3Y
Pin 3 directly to 3V

I also tried switching pin 4 directly to 3V and pin 3 directly to 3Y