I built the ecu earlier this year. Followed trubo kitty for instructions, it's an Ms3x.Got the car running still was working on tuning etc. Went to move car out of garage usually would be a couple of cranks and it would fire to life. This time nothing though no sparks. Could hear the fuel pump priming. Check ts on the laptop sure enough no crank signal. Pull ecu and check to see if anything looks toasted. Looks fine apart from a couple of the pins on U7 so I attempt to remove it to further investigate, probably should have been a bit more careful. I butchered the removal of u7. Is this salvageable or should I get a new board?

 

That's definitely salvageable. Just make sure the leads all connect to where they should go by measuring resistance. I don't like using a beeper for that, since that could indicate conductivity with a heavily damaged trace.
If a trace is damaged, just solder in a patch-wire, going from the leg of U7 to wherever it needs to go.

 

So I sent my ecu to a guy here that builds megasquirts here and he fixed it for me. I still have no cam signal,no rpms ,nothing.
what else could cause this? I didn't buy the expansion for my stim either,(not that i really know what I'm doing anyway. I would put up a datalog but I'm not sure it will be very useful

cheers

 

The bottom pad for pin 4 is gone and that's the connection to the internal ground plane. It might not be grounded properly.

 

Is there somewhere else i can ground pin 4 to make sure? It does look pretty damaged still

 

Do you measure 5V between pin 1 and pin 4? If you have no gnd, run a wire from pin 4 directly to a gnd point that is close (or proto area)
Do you have continuity between each pin and the point it needs to be connected to?

 

I get 4.25 volt from pin one if I ground that on pin 4 or the proto area. I get 4.97volt on the 5volt part of the proto area? Seems there is a short still somewhere

 

does pin 3 go to the top side of r52?

 

So I resolved the issues. checked all the pins on u7 and they were good. Did a little more research into the vr circuit and had a look at the jumpers. They looked fine but once I re-soldered the joints I had rpms again and an actual signal re set the vr pots and the car is running! Thanks everyone who helped you guys are legends

cheers Jimmy