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-   -   Wiring up an AEM AFR WBO2 to a 2000? (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/wiring-up-aem-afr-wbo2-2000-a-98071/)

Mirage775 09-17-2018 06:40 AM

Wiring up an AEM AFR WBO2 to a 2000?
 
Sorry for the noob question, but I cannot find any concrete information about wiring up an AEM 30-0300 X-Series WBO2 UEGO, into any NB Miata? I can find plenty of info about an NA car, but none for the NB? I believe this is my 2nd post here. I'm usually just a lurker here, but I finally have a question.

I'm installing an MSPNP2 along with the WBO2. I'm deleting my NBO2's, as emissions aren't in Alabama.

I've been researching all day and I'm sure I'm overlooking and overthinking the whole process, but what I need to know is, which wire coming off the new WB harness do I need to splice into the stocks O2 plug harness? I have included pics of all the wire colors.

This is the 5 wire new WBO2 Sensor

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3..._152618531.jpg

This is the new WBO2 Harness

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3..._152657117.jpg

This is the stock harness O2 wire colors; Solid Blue, Black w/White stripe, Black w/Red stripe, Pink w/Yellow stripe.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...3024497_LL.jpg

No picture, but the stock O2 sensor wires are White, White, Black and Grey.

cpierr03 09-17-2018 10:12 AM

You're better off wiring directly to the ECU

Reverant 09-17-2018 10:46 AM

I also replied to miata.net but my reply there awaits moderation.

This won't work, you can't plug in a wideband sensor as-is to the Megasquirt, you need to get a gauge (controller) that will connect to the sensor, and the controller will output a single signal wire to the Megasquirt.

HmoobDude 09-17-2018 11:17 AM

1 Attachment(s)
You shouldn't have to splice any wires of the WB harness. I'm not too familiar with your WB, but just glossing over the images, it looks like it should be wired up so:
  • 2 Connectors in Red connect to one another
  • 2 Connectors in Blue connect to WB Gauge
  • Wires in Green are your output signals that you would wire to the MS or O2 harness
Attachment 228471

Mirage775 09-17-2018 05:05 PM


Originally Posted by cpierr03 (Post 1502028)
You're better off wiring directly to the ECU

I wasn't sure if I could do that or not, but it would definitely be easier!


Originally Posted by Reverant (Post 1502033)
I also replied to miata.net but my reply there awaits moderation.

This won't work, you can't plug in a wideband sensor as-is to the Megasquirt, you need to get a gauge (controller) that will connect to the sensor, and the controller will output a single signal wire to the Megasquirt.

I have the complete gauge/WBO2 kit.


Originally Posted by HmoobDude (Post 1502036)
You shouldn't have to splice any wires of the WB harness. I'm not too familiar with your WB, but just glossing over the images, it looks like it should be wired up so:
  • 2 Connectors in Red connect to one another
  • 2 Connectors in Blue connect to WB Gauge
  • Wires in Green are your output signals that you would wire to the MS or O2 harness
https://i.imgur.com/uDMwEqI.png

That pic looks identical to my kit. So, for the wires in the Green circle above, I know red and black are power and ground. The rest of the wires say they're optional in the instructions? I'll post a pic of it next.

HmoobDude 09-17-2018 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502079)
I wasn't sure if I could do that or not, but it would definitely be easier!
That pic looks identical to my kit. So, for the wires in the Green circle above, I know red and black are power and ground. The rest of the wires say they're optional in the instructions? I'll post a pic of it next.

Read the instructions? I can't tell from the pic, it looks like there are 4 wires. As you said, red and black are power and ground. I imagine the other 2 are your output signals and I would think one is for WB (0-5V) and Narrow Band (0-1V). Refer to your instructions for which is which.


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502079)
I wasn't sure if I could do that or not, but it would definitely be easier!

You can, refer to this page: MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Mirage775 09-17-2018 06:55 PM


Originally Posted by HmoobDude (Post 1502085)
Read the instructions? I can't tell from the pic, it looks like there are 4 wires. As you said, red and black are power and ground. I imagine the other 2 are your output signals and I would think one is for WB (0-5V) and Narrow Band (0-1V). Refer to your instructions for which is which.

You can, refer to this page: MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Yes, I read the instructions. I read the instructions for anything I buy. I'm just unsure if I want to mess with this. I'm old school, V8's, carbs, load pipes, etc. I bought the Miata for my wife and kinda started modifying it, LOL! This new era of tuning cars scares me a little and I don't want to mess up the car with something wired up wrong. All the videos I've watched said you had to splice the wires in the stock harness and the instructions don't say that, although they're pretty generic.

Instructions say:

Red - Switched 12v Power
Black - Power Ground
Green/Black - AEMnet-/CANL (Optional)
White/Black - AEMnet+/CANH (Optional)
Blue - Serial/RS=2323 Output (Optional)
White - 0-5V Analog Output Positive+ (Optional)
Brown - 0-5V Analog Output Negative- (Optional)

I'm usually good at wiring, but I'm just unsure which of the above wires (Excluding Red & Black) splice into the under dash wires?

concealer404 09-17-2018 07:05 PM

None of them, on a stock ECU car.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502100)
None of them, on a stock ECU car.

But I'm installing my MSPNP2 at the same time.

concealer404 09-17-2018 07:09 PM

Then you'll need to run the white and/or brown wires to the appropriate inputs at the Megasquirt.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502102)
Then you'll need to run the white and/or brown wires to the appropriate inputs at the Megasquirt.

So, I can't just splice into the main wires that plug into the MS/ECU? I have to buy that optional cable and wire it up to the MS that way?

concealer404 09-17-2018 07:13 PM

You don't have to.... but if you can avoid splicing into your harness anywhere, that's usually advisable. Is there a plug for a secondary auxiliary harness on your Megasquirt? I haven't messed with anything that outdated in a long time.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502104)
You don't have to.... but if you can avoid splicing into your harness anywhere, that's usually advisable. Is there a plug for a secondary auxiliary harness on your Megasquirt? I haven't messed with anything that outdated in a long time.

Yep, there's an "Options" plug, but you have to buy an additional harness and find what wire does what and splice them together. I thought this AFR gauge install was simple and the MS was PNP and that was it... I'm having doubts about this whole thing now...

concealer404 09-17-2018 07:26 PM

Additional harness and options plug should have a pin diagram. Play a matching game with 2 wires. This is super simple stuff. :) That said, if this is hard, you're going to have a bad time tuning.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 08:06 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502106)
Additional harness and options plug should have a pin diagram. Play a matching game with 2 wires. This is super simple stuff. :) That said, if this is hard, you're going to have a bad time tuning.

I watched a few of Greg's (CarPassionChannel) YouTube videos of the MS install and they looked simple, but they were also on an NA... I know it's simple and I'm overreacting about the whole thing. I actually don't plan to tinker much with the MS. I'll auto tune it and that may be all I do with it. There's nobody around here that messes with MS, that's why I chose the PNP one.

concealer404 09-17-2018 08:08 PM

You're going to need to do way more than autotune it. That's about.... 10% of the actual tuning.

I wouldn't put a Megasquirt on an unopened stock motor NB1, period, personally.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 08:15 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502111)
You're going to need to do way more than autotune it. That's about.... 10% of the actual tuning.

I wouldn't put a Megasquirt on an unopened stock motor NB1, period, personally.

I was just going to install it to my car, then the new engine will be going into it during the Winter. It's definitely not too late to change my build plans. Someone said I could use ITB's on my car without a standalone? Is that true?

concealer404 09-17-2018 08:18 PM


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502113)
I was just going to install it to my car, then the new engine will be going into it during the Winter. It's definitely not too late to change my build plans. Someone said I could use ITB's on my car without a standalone? Is that true?

Sounds like some crap sjmarcy would post.

If you're planning on making much more than stock power, or changing the motor itself (Or installing ITBs), yes, you need a standalone. No, tuning isn't as easy as hitting the "autotune button."

Mirage775 09-17-2018 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502114)
Sounds like some crap sjmarcy would post.

If you're planning on making much more than stock power, or changing the motor itself (Or installing ITBs), yes, you need a standalone. No, tuning isn't as easy as hitting the "autotune button."

Thanks a lot!

skylinecalvin 09-17-2018 11:18 PM

You should go with something a local tuner supports or see if you can get somebody here to remote tune for you if you don't plan on learning pass autotune.

Mirage775 09-17-2018 11:23 PM


Originally Posted by skylinecalvin (Post 1502176)
You should go with something a local tuner supports or see if you can get somebody here to remote tune for you if you don't plan on learning pass autotune.

I was told auto tune was fine. There aren't any local tuners that use MS, as I've been checking around. I found a fella in GA that will remote tune it, but he's not too familiar with MS. I just don't have a lot of free time to mess with it anytime soon. I miss the old days where you could modify an engine and not worry about electronics tuning, to make it run.

HmoobDude 09-17-2018 11:43 PM


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502105)
Yep, there's an "Options" plug, but you have to buy an additional harness and find what wire does what and splice them together. I thought this AFR gauge install was simple and the MS was PNP and that was it... I'm having doubts about this whole thing now...

The PNP just means that it'll plug and play into your OEM harness, but you still have to do a bit of work on your end. Did you purchase your MSpnp2 brand new? If so you should've gotten the additional options port. If you followed that link I posted and read section 2, it tells you which "pins" in the options ports are for what. In this case you would wire up/splice your WB output signal to pin 21 of the options port.


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502178)
I was told auto tune was fine. There aren't any local tuners that use MS, as I've been checking around. I found a fella in GA that will remote tune it, but he's not too familiar with MS. I just don't have a lot of free time to mess with it anytime soon. I miss the old days where you could modify an engine and not worry about electronics tuning, to make it run.

Auto tune only "tunes" the fuel tables and it isn't perfect by any means (i.e: it wants to add or take away fuel in certain cells/bins like the overrun cells/bins) but is useful to get your fuel table (VE Table) to where you are targeting (AFR Table). There is still some fine tuning needed on that end, auto tune will not tune your ignition table, closed loop idle conditions, acceleration enrichment, A/C Idle control, etc. That is all on you to tune or your tuner to tune. Read more and research more (sounds like you have all Winter to do so), there's tons of information on this forum and over at msextra (http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms2manuals/).

For me the hardest part about digging up old threads on this forum is filtering out the mis-information/outdated information/relevant information and trying to piece all this information together. Lots of threads do end up without much of a solution posted so that's a bit frustrating at times.

And as mentioned, there are a couple of users on here who will e-tune the MS for you. That is the route I am planning to go as I've believe I've done enough to get my car driving ok, but I need someone with more expertise to iron out the rest of the tune for me.

Mirage775 09-18-2018 06:46 AM


Originally Posted by HmoobDude (Post 1502186)
The PNP just means that it'll plug and play into your OEM harness, but you still have to do a bit of work on your end. Did you purchase your MSpnp2 brand new? If so you should've gotten the additional options port. If you followed that link I posted and read section 2, it tells you which "pins" in the options ports are for what. In this case you would wire up/splice your WB output signal to pin 21 of the options port.



Auto tune only "tunes" the fuel tables and it isn't perfect by any means (i.e: it wants to add or take away fuel in certain cells/bins like the overrun cells/bins) but is useful to get your fuel table (VE Table) to where you are targeting (AFR Table). There is still some fine tuning needed on that end, auto tune will not tune your ignition table, closed loop idle conditions, acceleration enrichment, A/C Idle control, etc. That is all on you to tune or your tuner to tune. Read more and research more (sounds like you have all Winter to do so), there's tons of information on this forum and over at msextra (Manuals for Megasquirt-2 (3.4.x) - Megasquirt EFI).

For me the hardest part about digging up old threads on this forum is filtering out the mis-information/outdated information/relevant information and trying to piece all this information together. Lots of threads do end up without much of a solution posted so that's a bit frustrating at times.

And as mentioned, there are a couple of users on here who will e-tune the MS for you. That is the route I am planning to go as I've believe I've done enough to get my car driving ok, but I need someone with more expertise to iron out the rest of the tune for me.

I bought it from someone off the Miata MS Facebook Group. It was new, never installed. It has a sate of 3/18 on the back and it's for a 99-00 Miata. It came with a bunch of wires to connect it to my laptop, but the "options" wire/port cable wasn't included. I'm getting super frustrated with everything, as you mentioned above with misinformation, etc... I have watched videos where people install both the MS and the WB gauge, but don't bother to explain WTH they're doing as they install it...

I've read over the many pages at DIYautotune and actually have bookmarked the links. I've watched Greg's video of changing the timing and fuel tables in TS, once you get everything installed. I just wish there was someone local to tune it for me... I can "learn" how to operate MS, I'm just trying to figure out where these AFR wires go and it's all very frustrating.... I'll keep researching.

concealer404 09-18-2018 08:00 AM

Let's back up a quick second here.

What are you trying to do with the car? What's the goal with the new engine? The wideband wiring is cake. The IAT wiring is cake. The actual install of the Megasquirt is cake. You'll be fine. Getting the car to run well after all this is the hard part and what you really should be worrying about. Like i said previously, there's no way i'd bother with this on a 99-00 specifically unless you were going to make actual power.

So what's the new motor? What are you doing?

ryansmoneypit 09-18-2018 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502110)
... I know it's simple and I'm overreacting about the whole thing. I actually don't plan to tinker much with the MS. .

going to have to change this way of thinking.

Mirage775 09-18-2018 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502203)
Let's back up a quick second here.

What are you trying to do with the car? What's the goal with the new engine? The wideband wiring is cake. The IAT wiring is cake. The actual install of the Megasquirt is cake. You'll be fine. Getting the car to run well after all this is the hard part and what you really should be worrying about. Like i said previously, there's no way i'd bother with this on a 99-00 specifically unless you were going to make actual power.

So what's the new motor? What are you doing?

Apologies for not commenting on the engine. Car is street only, I have no plans of racing, auto-x or tracking it. According to DIYauto, there's no need for an IAT kit for my car. I'm going Naturally Aspirated, no turbo on my build, which might be why I'm getting some of the answers to this question... Once again, it's going into a 2000 Miata, but I was told that if I shave the head and change the intake manifold, that I would definitely need some kind of Standalone?

I'm using the following:

Stock NB2 bottom end
72psi Boundary Oil Pump
Gates Waterpump
Gates Performance Timing Belt (Blue) w new pulleys
NB1 head shave .040" with new valve seals and valve job
MSM Int Cam
RB Header
S2 Int Manifold/Throttle Body

Honestly, I'd like to run ITB's, but dunno at this point in time?

Alternatively, I could build my engine below and not worry about MS:

Do everything as above, but no head shave or S2 Intake Manifold or ITB's?


Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit (Post 1502205)
going to have to change this way of thinking.

Yep, I understand that now. I've been told so much about how "Auto tune" works, that I was sure I didn't have to do much to get it running...

concealer404 09-18-2018 11:54 AM

You could run that setup on a stock ecu. I'd convert to a Bp5A ecu (way easier) and maybe re-evaluate if you want to give up the midrange torque with the Skunk2 intake manifold vs the oem VICS manifold. 40thou shave might be a little ballsy on a stock ecu, run 92-93 octane and it'll be fine. You don't need the Boundary pump with a car that will only go to stock redline.

That motor is in a weird middle ground where it's a lot of work and money to build a new motor with that stuff, but it won't do anything better. I wouldn't bother. Just put the bolt ons on your current motor and enjoy.

Mirage775 09-18-2018 11:55 AM

Say I choose to not MS it, can I post it MS & AEM kit, on this forum, to sell it? Or is it like Miatanet, where I have to pay to post things for sale? Thanks

concealer404 09-18-2018 11:58 AM

You don't need to pay. Might need a certain post count, i'm not real sure. I know CR is 30 posts. Not sure what it is here, i've been here awhile. :bowrofl:

Mirage775 09-18-2018 12:15 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502252)
You could run that setup on a stock ecu. I'd convert to a Bp5A ecu (way easier) and maybe re-evaluate if you want to give up the midrange torque with the Skunk2 intake manifold vs the oem VICS manifold. 40thou shave might be a little ballsy on a stock ecu, run 92-93 octane and it'll be fine. You don't need the Boundary pump with a car that will only go to stock redline.

That motor is in a weird middle ground where it's a lot of work and money to build a new motor with that stuff, but it won't do anything better. I wouldn't bother. Just put the bolt ons on your current motor and enjoy.

I run pump 93 in it period. I didn't think I could use a BP5A ECU, as they have immobilizers on NB2's? Or maybe the immobilizer is in conjunction with the NB2 ignition switch? I've been told so many things in the last few months, that I'm unsure of what's what....

I can pass on the Skunk 2 intake, but might use the Skunk 2 TB with either my stock 2000 intake manifold or maybe a flap top manifold? If I could go with the ITB's, I'd like it even more. Just the look and sound of ITB's is amazing! I was told I could go .040" without any issues, but I've thought about .020" or possibly .030" Could I shave it .020" and still run without a standalone?

I guess my final question is, can I use stock ECU or and MSM ECU with my NB2 bottom end, .020" shave on NB1 head, MSM int cam and ITB's? If yall think I can, I'll go that route and sell the MS. Thanks!


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502255)
You don't need to pay. Might need a certain post count, i'm not real sure. I know CR is 30 posts. Not sure what it is here, i've been here awhile. :bowrofl:

I didn't want to try and get a red flag for posting. I'll check later today.


concealer404 09-18-2018 12:17 PM

If you have a 2000, it's an NB1. No immobilizer, and BP5A is an NB1 ecu. It requires converting to a return style vac-referenced fuel system to run correctly, but it's not a terrible job.

You can shave it 20thou on a stock ecu. You can't run ITBs on a stock ecu. You can't run MSM ecu.

Mirage775 09-18-2018 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by concealer404 (Post 1502265)
If you have a 2000, it's an NB1. No immobilizer, and BP5A is an NB1 ecu. It requires converting to a return style vac-referenced fuel system to run correctly, but it's not a terrible job.

You can shave it 20thou on a stock ecu. You can't run ITBs on a stock ecu. You can't run MSM ecu.

Yes, I know my car's an NB1...

​​​​​Ohhhh, I thought a BP5A was an MSM ECU? So, what's a BP5A ECU from?

I found a link somewhere about turning an NB1, into a return fuel setup. I have all the fuel lines from the '05, if those are needed?

So, buy a BP5A ECU, shave head .020", install my MSM cam and possibly use ITB's without a standalone? Will it throw any CEL's?

concealer404 09-18-2018 12:53 PM


Originally Posted by Mirage775 (Post 1502271)
Yes, I know my car's an NB1...

​​​​​Ohhhh, I thought a BP5A was an MSM ECU? So, what's a BP5A ECU from?

Other market NB1s.


I found a link somewhere about turning an NB1, into a return fuel setup. I have all the fuel lines from the '05, if those are needed?
Might help, though an 05 will also be returnless. Could use the feed line from the 05 as a return on your 00. NOTE: This is absolutely not necessary to do, unless you swap to BP5A ecu.


So, buy a BP5A ECU, shave head .020", install my MSM cam and possibly use ITB's without a standalone? Will it throw any CEL's?
ITBs = standalone. Period. Yes, there's theoretical ways to do ITBs on a stock ecu, but you're not ready for that, and it won't really serve any benefit anyways.

BP5A ecu does not have OBD2 functionality of any kind. Which is good for say... removing emissions without a pesky CEL. Not good in terms of being able to plug in a code reader for diagnosis.

My official recommendation is install your bolt ons on car as it sits, and see how you feel. A small head shave is actual real work for probably not much noticeable gain.

The BP5A ecu is 100% optional. The car will run fine with the BP5A intake cam on your existing ECU.

ryansmoneypit 09-18-2018 01:06 PM

Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage

Mirage775 09-18-2018 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit (Post 1502280)
Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage

Which "club" is that?!?!?! Sounds like I need to forget tuning and move on to something else...

Mirage775 09-18-2018 01:23 PM


Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit (Post 1502280)
Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage


ryansmoneypit 09-18-2018 02:05 PM

The club where idiotic advice isn't allowed to flourish. MT.

Mirage775 09-18-2018 06:33 PM

I put the MS for sale in the Classified section for cheap.


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