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XEDE to MS - I'm still mixed about how it runs now
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My car was great now it's good.
With the MS I love the idle and low kPa driveability. I can go slow in traffic much smoother now. What I miss though is the slam dunk power. It feels like I have traction control as it builds power slowly and never really pushes me back like before. It's the opposite of a light flywheel effect. Take that lightly as I still have a lot to learn about MS. Also I'm no longer able to control VVT so that accounts for about 20+ HP/TQ midrange. I hate pestering Reverant as his time zone doesn't mix well with mine. He's been great with after sales support but I should let him rest a while. We have recalibrated TPS and the wideband. I've been autotuning all week with runs to and from work accelerating hard when possible. Trying to get the cells in the boost range all set. Here is a log showing full throttle run and holding it at 100 TP (not trying to blow the motor and get a good log. It was blizzarding outside here in Canada so it was a bit dangerous as the rear end got loose) and my .msq My AFR's under boost show tad rich on my Uego gauge while glancing over during runs but the VE tables seem lean?? Could it be base timing, exhaust leak, fuel pump, some other mechanical issue? I'm going to check the base timing to see if something moved. Let me know if I've totally messed something up and how we can bring back that lovin feelin...... |
I love when turbo cars with crappy tunes get on the dyno or track and make me lol.
mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhpew mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhpew mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble mmble pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhpew |
Looks like tsunami from the japanese earthquakes hit canadian shores and your fuel map.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_t...03-23_1200.png (toosoon?) |
wonk dit dit
From the movie A Simple Plan. It means I am at a grade 3 level understanding of what's happpening to my car. Sure I can mechanically rebuild my carburated dirt bikes top and bottom end an tune by jetting. My nitro R/C car runs nice but I am still a noob with MS. My XEDE had fuel and ignition and that's all to adjust and so my brain worked. Once I get above 2 parameters its like I can't taste all the flavors !! |
Oh that's not my Ve table, its one of those pictures you look at and after a while an image appears. The image is my facepalm.......
This is after VE Live. Do I just keep on autotuning? I used a base map and then got correcting with Ve live every time I went out in the car. I have EGO off and Accell at 100% TPS. |
Originally Posted by Landrew
(Post 705338)
wonk dit dit
From the movie A Simple Plan. It means I am at a grade 3 level understanding of what's happpening to my car. Sure I can mechanically rebuild my carburated dirt bikes top and bottom end an tune by jetting. My nitro R/C car runs nice but I am still a noob with MS. My XEDE had fuel and ignition and that's all to adjust and so my brain worked. Once I get above 2 parameters its like I can't taste all the flavors !! |
Will do.
I assume I'll want to make that hour or more full of boost runs all through the rpm range and avoid steady state cruising all the while hitting burn every so often? I'll report back after I get some more autotuning done over the next while. Thanks |
Why would you want to avoid steady state cruise? I'd think if you want it to run right during a steady state cruise (with light load) you'd want to get that scenario dialed in just like everything else. Otherwise you just aren't getting any time on that part of the table.
Use the upper-right corner map in tuner studio to tell what sections you've hit in a given run and what sections you haven't. You want to make as much of the table as green as possible. EDIT: Have you scaled that table for larger injectors? It looks like you're pulling massive amounts of fuel in some areas, but haven't exercised others at all. Was your base map set up for stock injectors? |
Is that wave looking fuel map a joke or is that seriously how your map looks like?:bowrofl:
As far as autotuning, you want to go over as many cells as possible. The low rpm/boost/tp steady cruise cells are just as important in making your car smoother overall as the full boost ones. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 705363)
Is that wave looking fuel map a joke or is that seriously how your map looks like?:bowrofl:
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Its like autotune PULLS fuel instead of adding fuel...I'm really stumbled by this,
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My steady state is good while cruising lightly to work on the highway.
The map was from Reverant, and we are both wondering about it pulling fuel. I can say that the dash AFR at boost looks good so I'm not sure. I'll keep tuning daily to and from work and lunch times. I'm ordering the vvt this week and get that all squared away. What about EGO and accell enrich, leave as is? |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 705376)
Its like autotune PULLS fuel instead of adding fuel...I'm really stumbled by this,
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 705376)
Its like autotune PULLS fuel instead of adding fuel...I'm really stumbled by this,
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It's 5.5
Eng Dis 1800 cc Cyl 4 Inj. flow 550 cc/min A/F 14.7 |
Change eng dis to 1839, that's the number I had in there. Inj flow is 632cc on the NB2, since the fuel pressure is usually 57-60psi.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 705677)
Change eng dis to 1839, that's the number I had in there. Inj flow is 632cc on the NB2, since the fuel pressure is usually 57-60psi.
BTW can you send me that .xls of the build ? |
Hey Reverant can you send me something like this that applies to my specific car and the MS2 build. Just so I can double check all my settings one more time.
Example:
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 448856)
Basic Setup:
req fuel ~12 speed density 2 alt 4 4 port 4 even More Constants Disabled Multiply (Should be include, but requires a retune) speed density disabled Injectors (THESE SETTINGS NEED WORK) 0.88 .2 100 26 66 off Tach Miata 99-00 4.00 off 3 Falling Edge Going Low (I think? Get this wrong, cook coils. Check for hot coils on car) Wasted Spark D14 More ignition settings (NEEDS WORK) Use Table 1st deriv ----- 6.5 10.0 standard 5.5 1 0.7 latency" 6 off off Noise Filtering: ALL OFF Rotary Settings: OFF General: (most of these you can tweak) Single Table Initial Map Reading 105 75 100.0 (lower if you are at altitude) 50 50 50 60 50 50 16x16 Rev Limiter: Spark Retard or fuel cut if you have a Cat, Spark Retard/cut if you don't Normal (unless they fixed the low temps) 10 7250 7500 (note this is reving the motor a bit more than stock, use lower numbers if you don't understand) 3 7 EGO: Single Wide Band (if you have a wideband) 16 1 10 156 (higher if you have a 180* thermo) 1300 100 (you may want 60% here) 150 (you may want ~80 for NA and 120 for turbo here. Considerably lower than max boost.) 20 Simple (I've heard they've fixed the PID here. But I heard they fixed the idle, too) Advanced. :-) Startup Idle: 400 70 (at least) every event Priming: (these are for my 550s, so 2-3x these numbers) 10.3* 6.0 ms linear to 174* 2.5 ms Cranking pulse 10.3 326 174 107 exponential fall off. Just play with it. ASE kinda linear 10.3 52 to 174 21 steeper at end. ASE taper: 10.3 350 to 174 100 linear Idle Control (START WITH THESE!) PWM Warmup Cranking Duty 30f 70% to 175f 60% PWM Idle 1 Normal 8 PWM Duty -40f 61 155 32 This takes playing with. On my car, it idles high (~1100 rpm) but I have a huge stereo. Warmup Enrichment: -40 251 100 122 155 100 Accel Enrich (I think this is injector dependant) 800 7000 off Code:
8.0 2000 1000 25.5off off off PM5(warmup): coolant > 190 5.0 no second condition 0 0 off PT7 IAC2 (VICS, I believe) rpm > 5250 500 no second 0 1 Off Barometeric (default, which sucks, but there you go) (skip to knock) Knock Sensor: Safe Mode MS2 AD7/JS4 Low Input Pull Up 2 300 700 7500 20 0.2 3.0 0.8 1.5 3.0 Overrun fuel cut on 1500 40 2.5 90 1.5 0 Staged: off Tacho: on JS11 Normal Overboost: (very good feature for early testing. Set for 8 psi to start) Fuel Cut (your target max boost + a couple PSI. ~200) 15 (tweak this number to suit) Advanced Idle (I've not tested, so leave off) Tools: Don't forget to set TPS - likely 98 to 741 but check this Thermistor: (Note: These settings suck. They work well around 160F, so I use them. Be aware, at high temps, it maxes out and has a hard time being accurate at 200* if you try to correct the resistance for 99* instead of doing what I did. This needs work! Make sure fans work after setting this.) 2490 C -40 100700 30 2238 82 177 THESE ARE ALL BASELINE! NO PROMISES THEY ARE RIGHT! CHECK THEM ALL< READ UP ON MS-II AND HOW IT WORKS. Bad settings here CAN AND WILL blow up your motor, over heat it, etc. This thread is to work out good settings, but, everyone share their ideas but nothing here is to be considered a recommendation or an endorsement, including (and especially including) ME!. :-) That said, this shouldn't be that bad. The only real way to get in trouble is to not understand what you are doing. Don't set these settings and try to run the Indy 500. Load them on and CAREFULLY check everything. Go for a drive and log what you saw, IF it starts. |
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How does this spark map look ? I have not altered it.
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That looks totally wrong. I've sent you a completely new map, try it and let me know.
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