magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

2 stage WI is pretty sweet. I was experienceing some detonation around 15 psi indicard 14 psi actual, on hot days, with 95 or so% DC on my 460's. running a single 176cc/min nozzle rated at 70 psi running with 100 psi pump pressure. In response to this i added another 130cc/min nozzle rated at 100 psi to come on at 10 psi and all is well now pulled like mad once i got it all leaned back out even with 2scoops of hooah in the car it was pretty decent. at 90 or so degrees ambient temp, running stock timming maps at 10btdc.
All in all it cost me 70 bucks to upgrade my system i used a solenoid from mcmastercar, a 90 degree jet from cooling mist, and a ebay activation switch, along with a lowes all brass compression tee. My only issue now is i am using alot more water in high boost so i will be looking into a bigger tank or maybe just another tank alltogether. Hopefully this and my 550's will let me run 17 psi.

MiataNuTca

YOu crazy. Way to go though on non intercooled high boost. I would be building a safeguard system though.

95% duty cycle seems way too much. I fried one of my 205cc's doing this, but I was also running 100psi of fuel pressure through it at that duty cycle.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

i was realy thinking about a flaot switch now but i dunno it just seems so complicated. more to come in the future.

MiataNuTca

I like having my thermocouple in the intake after the spray....it just shows me the system is working when I go into boost, even though it's getting saturated and showing inaccurate temps.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Well the usage when i am not testing the WG limits all the time is actualy very good. only a litle more than before now that i am driving it abit more normally i think this is due to the fact that it takes me less time in boost to hit or overrun my desired speed. Still i will continue to be on the lookout for a bigger tank to fit in there and up my capacity

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

Blowing up a Miata is so easy magna can do it. :gay:

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

Magna what did you need a fload switch for? Incase the water tank ran out?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

yes a flaot switch would tell me about low water.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

How about something like this? It's a little relay driver circuit I whipped up that keeps a relay off when the probe has some path to ground. If the water has a path to ground -somewhere- in the system all you would need to do is put a stainless steel screw thru the plastic water tank (at the minimum level) and connect the probe to that. If the water isn't grounded anywhere just add another screw at the bottom of the tank. If the pump is metal and the case is grounded that should be enough. The 3m ohm resistor to the first transistor's base keeps it on unless the probe is grounded. Two transistors are used for greater sensitivity. Hook whatever you want at the relay's terminals. If I get around to it tomorrow I'll actually built the circuit. So far it's functional in the emulator.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

nah to much work for me ill go with a simple flaot switch i am not a sloder monkey

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

In one of my projects I used a tube with round float that slide up and down it. The float had a magnet glued to it. I put a reed switch inside the tube towards the end of the tube so when the float got down there it switched on. Kinda like the brake light switch for low fluid. Maybe you could source the parts from one of those.

carlb

iTrader: (2)

Hey Magna,
Are the two nozzles roughly co-located or did you move the second nozzle somewhere else on your intake tube? Any advantages to having them spread out?

gooflophaze

I'm 3/4ths done with my install -- all that's left is a few lights and switches. I snagged an old low washer fluid switch out of a cadillac at a pick n pull, and cut my tank to fit.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I have mine prewired for an eventual ebc ms mod. Basically, if the water gets low enough to trigger the float switch then it will by pass the ebc and open the wastegate. That way if water runs low then then max boost I can run is the spring pressure in the wg itself. I havent used it yet "in the field" but electrically it works perfectly.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

neogenesis2004 have you done anything further with this idea? I'm beginning to seriously consider a WI setup from the start. Would you happen to have some pics to share?

I like the idea of a float switch so I can avoid issues with running out of water in the reservoir.

Thanks,

Rafa

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I never got to wiring up the ebc so I didn't take the idea further yet. I still plan to though sometime when my new setup is finished. One thing I have thought about that really needs to be found/done to make the level switch work effectively is that the tank needs to be baffled to really be useful, otherwise once it get about half full your ebc/wi will be sorta out of your hands. I haven't actually looked for a suitable tank though.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

yeah i notice my light flashes unde rlateral laod sometimes as well some baffeling would help that, or maybe even a faom fuel cell insert

chuckerants

iTrader: (1)

If I can wire in a float switch, anyone can do it. I wired it so a bright red LED flashes in my face as I get low on water. I also have a manual switch to turn the WI off but could have just as easily wired it to auto shut off the WI.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

At one point someone on the forum bought a TON of the fuel cell foam that works as meth tank baffling. They were selling it off pretty cheap. Can't remember who it was though.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Stupid question Magna: what if I were to turn my reservoir tank upside/down? I don't know if I'm understanding you correctly but I get the sense you're saying that as the tank empties the remaining mix shakes around the tank thus resulting in loss of pressure at the nozzle. Is this the case?