Cost effective reed/floats?
 

So I'm probably picking up a couple pumps/solenoids/nozzles locally. With this, I'll still need to do all the electronics, containers, filters, routing etc...

I'm most likely going to emulate Joe's dual tank setup. It just seems ideal for an on track environment.

I found these float switches... http://cgi.ebay.com/Internal-Horizon...sid=p1638.m122 and am very tempted... anywhere I can cut costs makes me happier on doing this additional project. Since I already have enough little things to keep me going until the end of time. And I've gotten lazy.

Can anyone think of any reason why they wouldn't be worth trying?

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/...ge/c3aga2l.gif

12 dollar vertical ones (and they are local)

Mcmaster
50195K93

Hurm, maybe i need to figure out my containers and start figuring it out more from there.

Or go to their site search floats, and then page through for horizontal

Dude we have McMaster, no buying crap with 10 dollar shipping cost. Local pickup, 1 hour notice

Yah, and i just checked for their horizontal floats too. Also cheap. No shipping from overseas for me now :p

horizontal 13.50-20 bucks for different formats.
mcmaster
46515K45

Yeah that are right off 294 and north ave

How are you hooking it up to the MS?

Not sure yet. I plan on having the solenoid run by the WI mod. Then I intend to have a dual map setup thats switch is a float based somewhere in the system... haven't decided where. So that when I'm 'out' of water/meth, the tune gets tamed automatically.

Booh Tame Maps :td:

30 minutes at wide open throttle and then running out of WI = BOOM.
Not everyone likes running without a safety net.

FWIW doing a detuned map based on low water/failed pump/whatever sounds like a great idea to me. If I implemented a WI system that is what I would do. I need to read up on switching maps in MS based on an external trigger.

EDIT: found this thread. Looks like a switch to the EBC would do the trick. So when your tank is low, you cut power to the EBC. Simple.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...=timing+switch

It's also pretty ideal for a street environment. ;)

I'd avoid vertical-mount switches, at least for the bottom, for two reasons. First, on an American NA with the stock washer bottle, there's really no place for a switch to go on the bottom without drilling a big hole in the body. Second, using the vertical switch lets me trigger the refill system at a higher level than would be the case with a horizontal switch. (less chance of uncovering the pickup during high-G maneuvers)

And all you really need to make it work is one relay and one diode. It really is that simple.


edit: the detune idea is a good one which I'm implementing myself. Rather than trigger off of water level however I have a pressure switch mounted in the water line right before the nozzle. This way, the system will indicate not only an empty tank but also a failed pump, a disconnected line, etc. About the only thing I can't detect is a clogged nozzle, so I just pull and inspect the nozzle and filter once every six months or so.

Could you replace the pressure switch to something that measures flow?

you could do a flow switch.

Paddle is cheap (but usually large) I think the pressure is probably the best way to do it.

I could. I haven't found one that was cheap enough and yet still able to measure the relatively minuscule volume of water flow we're dealing with.

I'd still want to keep the pressure switch, since a flow switch wouldn't detect that the hose has been cut or become disconnected. And all in all, I think that the chance of the nozzle becoming completely clogged without my noticing is pretty small.

Joe, i believe they would.

A differential pressure sensor would definitely.

Joe, the pump runs constantly right?


A flow switch wont work with this application. It would but it wouldnt read flow every time your off boost. And would ruin your map.

Pressure differential across what? Only the nozzle itself should be generating any significant restriction, and I can't very well measure the pressure after that.

The pump runs only when in boost and injecting.

The idea is to switch between two maps- one conservative, one heavy. Only the boosted portions of the two maps would differ, the non-boosted portions would be identical. So technically, I'd be running on the "conservative" map most of the time, and it would switch to the "aggressive" map when the pump started pumping.