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Ok I got some time this afternoon to get this thing installed.
Here it is installed right out of the box.
I noticed that the depth of the screws was a little shallow and didn't allow the screws to grab into their appropriate holes easily (Yes, I have this problem a lot)
Here's a shot of how far down they "Penetrate"
After some quick work with a drill bit and Dremel to clean up things a bit.
And here's a shot of how much I removed, Approx. 1/8"
After reinstalling I checked fitment around the unit and noticed there was a small gap around the top.
I measured the gap and its about 15mm to the metal, less if you have carpet installed.
My overall impressions of this is that it fits well the first go around.
Aside from the small gap at the top (likely negligible in most cars) I think this is a great solution to covering up pull handles.
Plus you left enough material all the way around to give people some wiggle room and adjust things as needed.
I'm going to play with it a bit and see what I can come up with in the next day or so.
I'll keep you guys updated.
Awesome man, thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, it was developed on a car with no carpet, wasn't sure how thick the carpet would be so I left room for it. I'll drop the screw holes down a bit. How's the clearance around the bottom of the angled part? I might be able to fix the gap on top by just changing the angle as long as it won't interfere.
If you pulled in the bottom the top would likely line up well. I was going to look into sanding some off there to see if I could close up that gap a bit.
Just a heads up to everyone, the gas/trunk cover has been redesigned and is ready to rock, probably not enough time to get one printed and shipped before I leave, but they'll be ready to rock when I return.
Still working on other designs:
-Shipped out a tombstone end cap a bit ago, so I'm waiting to hear feedback from that guy about it and we may have a complete center console delete solution.
-playing with the aero for the turn signal canards
-trying to perfect the headlight lids, the curves are a pain. They're going to have to be multiple pieces as well, shouldn't effect function, my printer just isn't big enough.
-about to get started on the louvers/hood vents, they'll be sized/shaped to work around the hood supports and fit in the optimal positions (per these numbers: https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...sc/louvers.pdf )
-I do custom work and one off pieces as well, so if you're not hearing about something you're interested in, let me know, or better yet, post about it, chances are that other people would be interested too.
-I don't only do car things, I've done art pieces, desk accessories, succulent planters, etc... Could be useful getting the wife/girlfriend off your back about buying more car parts.
Oh, and for all the racists hating on my radiator because it's brown, Installed my supermiata crossflow.
So, rough idea for the turn signal canards. Looked more closely at the turn signal placement and it's probably too high to be effective if we're being honest, but then again, I'm not the aero guy, and I don't have any CFD analysis tools, the best I could do is a stress/load test overlay to identify weak points. Looks right based on canards I've seen, roughly 30 degree entry ramping to 45 degree main and tapering off, rounded leading edges, radius where possible, outer edge to keep airflow attached and decrease vortices.
My input. Extend the lower piece to cover the carpet holes seen in the picture. That would help a lot as many of us who have removed the center console do not have a custom carpet piece and that would make for a cleaner look. Thoughts?
I agree, but I'm maxed out on length, I might be able to squeeze out another 1/8th, but not the 3/4 to 1 in needed to cover them well. I could possibly make an extension piece separate that would fit onto the cover and extend the front. I'll start working on it.
Brainz,
:
Loki,
That looks like a good idea, seems pricey though, where do you source yours?
VHT Vinyl Dye from any Auto-parts or hardware store.
I've never even thought about the price since I use it on parts for myself and know that it'll hold up well so I don't care too much about cost.
I saw some at the parts store the other day, wasn't as bad as online, still pricey though at nearly $8 a can. I don't blink for my car either, but I have to pass on costs incurred when selling things, so if I go through half a can for each print, it can add up for people. I try to stay pretty cheap price-wise because it's my easiest place to stay competitive in the market.
I am interested in a center console delete setup for an NB, something to close off the gear surround and mount window switches, and a plate for the trunk/gas release. Basically a short console.
Ok gents,
Back from my trip, I've got a list and I'll start cranking out prints asap.
goose, I've got the trunk/gas lever plate pretty much finished and ready to rock, the next NB project is a tombstone end cap, but that won't solve the shifter surround. I'll get started on a design for a shorty console, but it might take a while to roll out as I don't have an NB to prototype on locally.
Right now I've got mrmonk for the extended trunk/gas, brainz for the cruise plug, and some custom parts for a guy I need to print off, let me know if I left you off or if you're interested in anything else. Just to sell myself a little more, I do custom designed pieces in addition to anything discussed here, and if you already have a design and just need something printed I can do that as well. Prices are reasonable I think, and I can get exotic filaments for high temp, stress, or chemical components.
Sorry if i missed this information somewhere on thread, but have you been planning desingin/making any zoom style center/radio consoles? Tought it would be really hard to make same kind of look with 3D printer cuz of the shapes those have, but with some modifications i think that could be done. Would love to buy original ones but poor me doesnt have that kind of money laying around
For the cheap printer talk. I only recommend them if you want a project. They good for learning what sucks about almost every 3d printer so you can go back and redesign your own that isnt a floppy POS with crappy electronics and under powered motors. Even the 2k+ printers are kind of shitty because they arent very rigid, 8mm rods for the axis are just not stiff enough for holding tight tolerances and making consistent prints, nor running fast. They new printer that E3D was showing off lately seems to be the only one designed well you can buy in the consumer space.
Sember, I hadn't planned on it, but it's possible. The designs are easy enough, the zoom consoles are pretty linear and should be simple. The hard part is that my printer isn't big enough to do a whole one, so I would have to piece it together. Again, do-able, just going to need finishing to hide the seams and a lot of time to test fit and re-print prototypes because of the size. So I'm willing to work on one and make it happen, just be aware of the limitations. Probably run about 1/3 to 1/2 of a zoom console based on the rev9 prices for design, prototyping, finished product and shipping.
Leafy,
Agreed, mine has to be slowed down quite a bit to produce quality prints and I still get ghosting and other issues. It's a little surprising how beefy they need to be for consistency.
Yeah. The one I've been working on is based on 40x40 extrusion and 12mm linear rail. It's more rigid than most of the "milling" machines that are similar to printers. Also using 12mm wide belts and nema 23 motors since they sold be able to handle higher acceleration.
06-25-2018, 12:43 AM
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