Will second the 1st layer comment, it's true even in metal SLS machines. In general, spending time to perfect the print settings/profile usually pays off.

I am going to have to look into PETG. So your intake is PETG and it has held up ok in the engine bay?

Harry, definitely agreed, settings and calibration are the name of the game for good prints. I will say however that you can only do so much with shitty machines, I was having print failure rates near 80% before I removed my filament sensor (it overheats the drive gears which heat the filament and then you get clogs before the extruder.), my settings were probably 90% where I wanted them but the machine was causing failures. After diagnosing the machine I haven't had a print failure, and I'd say my settings are at probably 95% of where I want them.

JD8, Yeah PETG is good stuff, and usually priced the same as PLA, check out makergeeks. My intake v2 is PETG and it has held up with no change over about 3 weeks so far. I ran a PLA intake before that wrapped in DEI gold, it sort of worked, but I melted it at idle. PETG has a glass transition of 80-85 C, so 180 F, it sits on top of my radiator and still stays cool enough to have no issues. I'm sure re-wrapping it in DEI gold would make it do even better and lower my IAT's, but I'm installing my rotrex right now, so I'm not going to waste the $50 a roll.

Just a heads up for everyone, I'll be out of town July 2nd to 13th, so the printer won't be running. I'll pull measurements from everything I need to design and I'll be designing on the road. I'm starting a list, so if you're interested in something, throw your name on the list and I'll get out everything I can before then. To reiterate, the trunk/gas lever cover is out to 008 for NB testing, NA version is tentatively ready, might have revisions after getting feedback, but one is going out as is. I'm currently using flat rate boxes for shipping until I can figure out how to ship for cheaper. Radio deletes alone fit in the small box, so $7.20 on shipping, and everything else including multiple parts, fits in the medium box, so $13.65 for shipping. If anyone knows how to get better shipping rates, message me, it would benefit everyone. Currently focusing on the radio deletes and lever covers because the designs are finished (mostly), but I haven't forgotten about the other things people want.

Radio delete:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.


Trunk/gas lever cover (specify NA/NB):
1. Mrmonk7663 NB
2.
3.
4.
5.

Other (specify):
1. Balto vented headlight covers
2.
3.
4.
5.

Message me and I'll add you to this list, don't want a repeat of the hubs fiasco, and everything stays centralized.

Yoooo put me down for passenger and driver na vented headlight covers

I'd like to warn anyone considering buying a cheap 3D printer NOT to, it's a constant effort in frustration, fixing everything that will go wrong with them.

I bought a Wanhao i3 V1.2, which is a Chinese knock-off of the original Prusa i3 Mk3 and is one of the most popular 3D printers around because it's cheap and produces decent ABS and PLA results WHEN it's working.

Once I added gantry stabilisers (commonly referred to as the "Z-axis mod") and the bed was levelled correctly and I found the right bed+filament temperatures for my unit I was producing great small prints.

When I tried printing a larger model, I smelled something burning and the unit reset itself.
Turns out that the socket to the motherboard can't handle the amperage required to heat the hotbed and burns out.
The fix was to replace it with an external MOSFET which I did and things went well for a while.

Then the filament stopped flowing from the nozzle so I bought the Swiss metal hot end for it, which was another recommended upgrade.
The filament was still not moving through the nozzle and I found that one of the wires to the heating unit had actual broken inside the sheathing so I cut the other wire too and connected small spade connectors to both.
This worked for a little while but then the prints were failing, ending up as a bird's nest of filament wrapped around the nozzle and being dragged over the build plate.

Investigation revealed that the build plate was now bowed which is not unusual, it's aluminium and get's heated up at different rates in different spots (similar to how the base of cheap saucepans get warped).

I bought a glass build plate to sit on top of the aluminium build plate, another common solution since glass is flat, but couldn't manage to level the bed.
No matter how much dicking around with the bed levelling screws I did, I found that one corner could never be lowered enough to give the nozzle 0.1mm of clearance.
This turned out to be an issue with the plate under the build plate - there's a spring between this plate and the build plate at each corner and a screw is used to raise or lower the corner so that the bed can be levelled.
The lower build plate is made of thin aluminium which has now bent at the corners making bed levelling a nightmare; I needed to bend the offending corner of the lower plate down and re-level again.
I ordered an aftermarket heavier-duty version of the lower plate, yet another common mod for this machine, and gave up trying to do more prints in the mean-time because I just can't get the bed level anymore, even after adjusting the machine's Z-axis.

it seems that some owners are EVENTUALLY happy with the WanHao i3 V1.2 machine for ABS and PLA but only after they've made all the modz I described above and it usually takes about a year since most only upgrade the machine when it stops working.
When it's working it's great - when it doesn't, you just curse the Chinese "make-it-cheap" mentality because it WILL break and it WILL take time and $$$ to fix.

I've ordered the next generation Prusa printer, due for shipment next month since I don't want to deal with finding+fixing the next problem with my WanHao printer.

Saving a few hundred dollars on the Chinese version of a 3D printer is just NOT worth the grief and time+$$$ to make it actually work reliably so DON'T do it, spend the extra $$$ on the genuine version of the printer and know that it WILL work reliably.

Eh, I spent the money on the genuine thing and it still wasn't reliable. my recommendation would be to either save up for a legit ass machine (>$2k) or get in on a cheaper machine with a good aftermarket. Every sub 2k printer is going to have some sort of growing pains getting used to it and getting it to work right. If you're going to have to spend the money on upgrades anyway, you might as well not waste it up front. For instance I could have gotten a mk2s and had a better printer that worked reliably out of the box for $200 cheaper than my mk3. Then I could have spent that $200 on upgrades and had a better printer overall. I would start by looking at what the best people are printing with, and their prints. If their printers can make exceptional prints, so can you with the same printer (eventually). That's the thing about this technology, every one of you could do what I do with access to the same programs and machines.

^
The Original Prusa i3 MK2/S 3D printer is the successor to your printer and has won many awards, they learned from their original design and improved it.
The next generation follows that same philosophy, as opposed to the "make it cheaper Chinese philosophy" so I expect it to be a decent home 3D printer.
They even sell components and kits to upgrade their printers with newer/better components, they don't just leave it to the user community.

If I wanted to commercially produce a lot of products, I'd definitely recommend something more industrial (and expen$ive), but for home use, I just can't justify spending $2,000+ on it.

I plan to keep trying to get my WanHao printer going again because when it works, it produces decent prints - I just have to fix all of its deficiencies :(

I'd NEVER recommend it though!
With the money, time and frustration I've spent on it already, I'd recommend the Prusa i3 MK2/S 3D printer instead at nearly twice the price.

Props to OP... I was impressed by the quality of the parts I received.

Predecessor, and yeah that was the idea, I'm saying they didn't improve on it. They rolled it out with new updated features that they didn't test thoroughly and I received a barely functional machine that I've had to disassemble until it's pretty much a mk2 to get it to function.
I'd recommend spending the money, even for a home printer, you'll be happier in the long run with a printer that makes spectacular prints reliably and will continue to lead the market for years instead of aging into worthlessness. Alternatively buying cheaper and knowing you're going to have to upgrade parts, so buying lower than needed and upgrading to get where you want.

Joker, Thanks man, glad to hear

For the radio delete, ship it in a regular yellow or a padded envelope You'll be looking at about $3,50-4, including the price of the envelope. Write "Photos, Do Not Bend' with a black marker on both sides of the envelope, that usually get them to wake up a bit and pay attention instead of stuffing it into small apartment mail boxes in a zombie-like fashion.

Also, USPS online and, oddly, USPS through PayPal is cheaper (and much easier) that paying at the Post Office, but you are probably well aware of that. And you do get tracking numbers for 1st class mail when shipping online.

I'll look into the padded envelopes for the radio deletes, I'd just really hate for them to get broken in transit.
I knew you could save a few cents using a shipping hub instead of the post office, but didn't know about online, I'll check that out too, thanks

Makes life much easier, believe me. And no lines at the Post Office. Print a label, put it on the envelope/box, drop it off or give to your postal worker. All on USPS,com and all free (unlike Stamps.com and other services that charge monthly). I've been using it for good 10 years now.

What about some canards that replace the oem side markers. Utilizing the 2 screws and the oval shape. It would have the side marker shape as a base, but a canard body on top, it wouldn't require drilling holes. You could have a backing plate for extra support.

That works even better for me, my local PO is in the middle of a construction zone with no parking right now, have to park illegally, run in, and hope nobody writes me up.

Brainz, that's a pretty solid idea man. Would probably require running a bolt through the screw holes to the backer plate instead of the screws, but I like it. I'll add that to the measurements to pull. Can anyone direct me to a canard angle of attack write up? I imagine it's variable. Not hard to make several variations at different angles though, so maybe customizeable.


Update on some parts I've been making custom:

Apparently I can fit 2x 2.6" gauges and still fit a 52mm gauge including space for their bezels on one radio delete. Mildly impressed honestly. Custom text for labeling gauges on demand.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d3eaaaaa44.png

Warning light box for steering column mount. I guess later NA cars have an access panel, this sits in it (hopefully) and mounts on top allowing a clean wiring solution and highly visible warning lights.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dbc93eac9e.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5318ec6604.png

First prototype of the NA tombstone endcap, since revised to use factory holes and shortened for shifter clearance. Pretty simple. Still need an NB for fitment, it would be quite different.
Also made a flat plate as an option (inspired by: Centre Console Update & TSI « omgpham?) requires cutting mounting tabs off of the tombstone though. Literally just a flat plate with 4 holes and round corners.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69276ecbb8.png

Actual printed parts of the same, unfinished with lots of stringiness.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...621eeb18b9.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0e493ab58e.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b91cf47457.jpg

trunk/gas lever cover going out, my painting skills are not exceptional just FYI. Bad cans of spray paint do not help. This one might be getting sanded down and re-done, I'm quite annoyed with it. "high build primer" my ass.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb92fac200.jpg

Yeah one could swap the speed nuts for m5 nuts and use long allen bolts. Seems like a good candidate! I think the mounting would be stout.

cruise control firewall hole delete(square), I hate that hole.

Try using Black Vinyl Dye rather than paint. On most plastics, including PLA and OEM pastic, I use 4-5 thin coats (the first 2 will look like like absolute crap but after that will look better than paint and will hold up better than paint since it wont chip or flake because the dye seeps into the plastic).

Brainz,
Good ideas, I'll prototype it soon, give y'all an idea of what I'm thinking and see what feedback you have.
I don't have cruise or the hole, you want to pull some measurements of it for me? Need width and height, whether there are rounded corners, and firewall thickness in the area. I can design and print that in probably an hour total, call it 2 bucks and I'll add them to any order already going out..

Loki,
That looks like a good idea, seems pricey though, where do you source yours?

Just a heads up, I just got that package today. (I was in San Fransisco all week)
I'm hoping I can take a look at it tonight, after I get all the bags unpacked and things put away.
I will update shortly.

Cool, good news man, Should be able to incorporate revisions and get 1 or 2 out before I leave next week.

Ok I got some time this afternoon to get this thing installed.

Here it is installed right out of the box.
Attachment 228706

Attachment 228707

Attachment 228708


I noticed that the depth of the screws was a little shallow and didn't allow the screws to grab into their appropriate holes easily (Yes, I have this problem a lot)
Here's a shot of how far down they "Penetrate"
Attachment 228709

After some quick work with a drill bit and Dremel to clean up things a bit.
Attachment 228710

And here's a shot of how much I removed, Approx. 1/8"
Attachment 228711

After reinstalling I checked fitment around the unit and noticed there was a small gap around the top.
I measured the gap and its about 15mm to the metal, less if you have carpet installed.
Attachment 228712

My overall impressions of this is that it fits well the first go around.
Aside from the small gap at the top (likely negligible in most cars) I think this is a great solution to covering up pull handles.
Plus you left enough material all the way around to give people some wiggle room and adjust things as needed.
I'm going to play with it a bit and see what I can come up with in the next day or so.
I'll keep you guys updated.

Awesome man, thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, it was developed on a car with no carpet, wasn't sure how thick the carpet would be so I left room for it. I'll drop the screw holes down a bit. How's the clearance around the bottom of the angled part? I might be able to fix the gap on top by just changing the angle as long as it won't interfere.

If you pulled in the bottom the top would likely line up well. I was going to look into sanding some off there to see if I could close up that gap a bit.

Just a heads up to everyone, the gas/trunk cover has been redesigned and is ready to rock, probably not enough time to get one printed and shipped before I leave, but they'll be ready to rock when I return.
Still working on other designs:
-Shipped out a tombstone end cap a bit ago, so I'm waiting to hear feedback from that guy about it and we may have a complete center console delete solution.
-playing with the aero for the turn signal canards
-trying to perfect the headlight lids, the curves are a pain. They're going to have to be multiple pieces as well, shouldn't effect function, my printer just isn't big enough.
-about to get started on the louvers/hood vents, they'll be sized/shaped to work around the hood supports and fit in the optimal positions (per these numbers: https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...sc/louvers.pdf )
-I do custom work and one off pieces as well, so if you're not hearing about something you're interested in, let me know, or better yet, post about it, chances are that other people would be interested too.
-I don't only do car things, I've done art pieces, desk accessories, succulent planters, etc... Could be useful getting the wife/girlfriend off your back about buying more car parts.

Oh, and for all the racists hating on my radiator because it's brown, Installed my supermiata crossflow.

So, rough idea for the turn signal canards. Looked more closely at the turn signal placement and it's probably too high to be effective if we're being honest, but then again, I'm not the aero guy, and I don't have any CFD analysis tools, the best I could do is a stress/load test overlay to identify weak points. Looks right based on canards I've seen, roughly 30 degree entry ramping to 45 degree main and tapering off, rounded leading edges, radius where possible, outer edge to keep airflow attached and decrease vortices.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...509b5caaa4.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a16c2b2f9c.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a273d1afc5.png

I agree, but I'm maxed out on length, I might be able to squeeze out another 1/8th, but not the 3/4 to 1 in needed to cover them well. I could possibly make an extension piece separate that would fit onto the cover and extend the front. I'll start working on it.

Easy enough to implement:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0fa92361b.png

VHT Vinyl Dye from any Auto-parts or hardware store.
I've never even thought about the price since I use it on parts for myself and know that it'll hold up well so I don't care too much about cost.

I saw some at the parts store the other day, wasn't as bad as online, still pricey though at nearly $8 a can. I don't blink for my car either, but I have to pass on costs incurred when selling things, so if I go through half a can for each print, it can add up for people. I try to stay pretty cheap price-wise because it's my easiest place to stay competitive in the market.

Canards
 

The canards look pretty cool! I'll take measurements on the cruise hole tomorrow.

Cruise hole: 11/16h x 9/16w
square corners

Easy enough to make a plug for that, I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the measurements.

Edit: And done.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4aed6e9b2d.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ed87eda781.png

I am interested in a center console delete setup for an NB, something to close off the gear surround and mount window switches, and a plate for the trunk/gas release. Basically a short console.

Ok gents,
Back from my trip, I've got a list and I'll start cranking out prints asap.

goose, I've got the trunk/gas lever plate pretty much finished and ready to rock, the next NB project is a tombstone end cap, but that won't solve the shifter surround. I'll get started on a design for a shorty console, but it might take a while to roll out as I don't have an NB to prototype on locally.

Right now I've got mrmonk for the extended trunk/gas, brainz for the cruise plug, and some custom parts for a guy I need to print off, let me know if I left you off or if you're interested in anything else. Just to sell myself a little more, I do custom designed pieces in addition to anything discussed here, and if you already have a design and just need something printed I can do that as well. Prices are reasonable I think, and I can get exotic filaments for high temp, stress, or chemical components.

Sorry if i missed this information somewhere on thread, but have you been planning desingin/making any zoom style center/radio consoles? Tought it would be really hard to make same kind of look with 3D printer cuz of the shapes those have, but with some modifications i think that could be done. Would love to buy original ones but poor me doesnt have that kind of money laying around :D

For the cheap printer talk. I only recommend them if you want a project. They good for learning what sucks about almost every 3d printer so you can go back and redesign your own that isnt a floppy POS with crappy electronics and under powered motors. Even the 2k+ printers are kind of shitty because they arent very rigid, 8mm rods for the axis are just not stiff enough for holding tight tolerances and making consistent prints, nor running fast. They new printer that E3D was showing off lately seems to be the only one designed well you can buy in the consumer space.

Sember, I hadn't planned on it, but it's possible. The designs are easy enough, the zoom consoles are pretty linear and should be simple. The hard part is that my printer isn't big enough to do a whole one, so I would have to piece it together. Again, do-able, just going to need finishing to hide the seams and a lot of time to test fit and re-print prototypes because of the size. So I'm willing to work on one and make it happen, just be aware of the limitations. Probably run about 1/3 to 1/2 of a zoom console based on the rev9 prices for design, prototyping, finished product and shipping.

Leafy,
Agreed, mine has to be slowed down quite a bit to produce quality prints and I still get ghosting and other issues. It's a little surprising how beefy they need to be for consistency.

Yeah. The one I've been working on is based on 40x40 extrusion and 12mm linear rail. It's more rigid than most of the "milling" machines that are similar to printers. Also using 12mm wide belts and nema 23 motors since they sold be able to handle higher acceleration.

Might be best to make some sort of "set" where is radio + mid console and price for those together since most would want full set i suppose and see how many would be interested in that before you start using your time and money making prototypes. Im really interested in those anyway but i live in Finland so would need ship those. Lets see when youve done your ongoing plans and discuss more about that after :)

Man do you have those cupholders available? I'm ready to buy 'em today!!

I'd like to see some brake duct inlets like you have in the first post. Those would be awesome if they would fit around the inlet in the front spoilers (like an r-package one).

How about a low profile dead pedal, the OEM is a bit intrusive to my foot space, but removing it doesn't work as my foot can't rest. Also, Air Bag switch Delete Cubby, like the OEM JDM part, but available.

Ok updates:
Got the custom parts finished and shipped out
Today is a big printer maintenance day, if I can finish early I'll get some cruise plugs printed up. They'll be $5 plus shipping (probably padded envelope, so cheaper) or $3 added to any other order.
Then I'll print the first of the extended version of the gas/trunk lever for mrmonk (tomorrow morning tentatively)
Finally back to the drawing board for more designs until more people want things printed (so come buy things.)

Leafy, shoot me a picture of that when you're done, that sounds like it's going to be an awesome machine.
Sember, I'll get working on a design at minimum
Science, Nope unfortunately, but I can design one and have it printed by the end of the week. Nobody really expressed interest, so it got put on the back burner. Do you have an idea of where you'd like one? My idea was a replacement for the ash tray.
Boost, bring me your car or have someone in the Seattle are bring me theirs, I'll make it happen.
Brain, Like this for the cubby? Are NA and NB dead pedals different? Still need an NB to prototype on, my RHD NA is honestly not the best prototype car
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4137672783.jpg

Yes that cubby. Dead pedal 89-05

I'd love to!! How much would it cost to have a cupholder made that would be able to hang from the passenger side from center console? Kind of like this: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/13/87...575f5646ce.jpg

I was thinking maybe it can latch on the plastic where the end of the shift boot is?

Brainz, dead pedal is easy enough, I'll get started. Can you pull me some measurements and angles and shit for the cubby?
Science, $15 for the cupholder, $13.65 for shipping, medium flat rate box. That would probably work as long as the shifter wouldn't hit it or push the boot up so it falls out. What size do you want the cupholders themselves? soda can/energy drink, coffee mug, gatorade bottle, etc? I'll need some measurements:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5117b0abca.png

Not to hijack potential sales but, the "Corvette" style cupholder moss sells is the best thing since lucky charms. Pricey at $40 but one of the top three "mods" I have done. It sits low, very sturdy, deep, large cups, no mounting needed. Removes, or moves in seconds. Doesn't interfere with driver or passenger at all. Oh and it is the best looking cup holder you can put in the car(especially an NB).

How about gauge pod housings that would sit flush against the gauge cluster cover? Either to the left or right side of the cover. Mainly because it might be nice to have the gauges there since I don't want to do A pillar gauges unless I have to 😅

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2501911/apps

I'd be interested in this made of abs or what ever won't melt in the heat like my current one did. :)

Thanks for the detailed diagram! I will try to get exact measurements for you as soon as possible. I was thinking maybe you can attach 2 cupholders? Also, I need clarification on the radius of the cupholder so I can get these exact for you. I see that the end points of the measurement lines intersect with the top and bottom of the cupholder circumference?

I would like them to fit those McDonalds sized drinks -- medium size. Probably the size of a water bottle would be okay?

Actually, 3D printing Corvette Travel Buddy cupholders is a brilliant idea! OP, if you develop such a beastie, I might be in for one.

3D print a Corvette

Mad Scientist, take a look at the link i provided. Im trying to find someone to 3D print that for me. it looks to be about the same size as my current cup holder, which holds any size drink from starbucks for reference.

Mrmonk, 25% as of a few minutes ago, looking like a solid tomorrow ETA, check your DMs

Drex, can do, any particular style or inspiration you're looking for? Probably be a double sided tape type install I'm guessing.

Shamrock, $10 plus shipping, PETG is holding up inside my engine bay, but I can give ABS a shot if you'd prefer. Do you have an idea of what temps your interior is reaching? Interesting to see anything melting in Mass, even PLA. All credit to the designer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2501911 Creative commons yada yada, not endorsed by the designer.

As a side note for everyone: If you have a file you'd like printed (as opposed to me designing it) I'll stand by my print quality, but not by someone else's designs. I'll do my best to fix any issues, but at the end of the day it's not my responsibility to do so. Be cool and I'll help you out, be uncool and get sent down the road.

Science, super fancy diagrams haha. My bad though, I just need the measurements to the side of the console, not all the way out tangent to where the cupholder would be. Yeah 2 is no problem. I'm sure I've got some cups around here somewhere I can reference and there's a mcdonalds down the road if not. Any interest in the corvette style solution?

Hues, it'll take me all of 20 minutes to design, let me know if you're in, I'll try to get a design finished today. maybe.

Six, What generation? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2218934 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2074590 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018194 (not mine, can't print commercially)

What ever is easiest for you, and what ever will hold up better. Within a week mine turned into an oval and became usless, i can only assume it is PLA. Its not uncommon to get 90+ here, and a black on black car is worst case when it comes to interior heat. With the design i sent ill also be able to easily pull it off and toss it in the glove box so its out of direct sunlight. If i remember ill take a picture of my current one and how bad its ovaled out.

I can send payment when ever you'd like. I figure shipping will be like 5-8 bucks.

Corvette style prototype:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a50c10a153.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4aa6c660ad.png
Shamrock, uuuuuunfortunately shipping is my biggest sticking point right now, I'm using flat rate boxes, so you'd be looking at $13.65. Still trying to figure out how to drop that, The weight is marginal, the size is the problem. Fedex usually does a little better assuming I have a box that will work, but it's still like 11 or 12. I'll get these current prints finished by late tomorrow and see if I can manage an ABS print. PETG can handle up to about 180F, but a blacked out car and 90+ might actually come close to that inside with no airflow.