3D printed parts feeler
 

So I picked up a 3D printer a while back and made some parts for my car as well as just other cool things. I'd like to turn it into a small business, so I'm trying to gauge people's interest in 3D printed parts for the miatas. Let me know your thoughts or concerns.
Currently I've printed for my miata:
-A full intake, ARC chamber style. It's going through a revision right now to see if I can run it without the DEI gold with this new material.
-Radio delete panel, my first iteration was blank, then added some hex pattern for decoration, currently I also have a gauge pod version which I've been running happily for several months.
I'm about to design and print:
-An antenna delete plug, not sure whether a flush plug that gets silicone'd in place or a two piece screw together part with o-ring would be preferable.
-sun visor delete plugs
Also possible:
-TPS mount, though SadFab makes them already
-Cup holder, I know one guy makes them where they sit on the side of the trans tunnel, but I'm a big dude and don't have room for that, so I'm thinking the ashtray/change box position.
-I've seen eyeball vent replacements as well, some with mounts on them for phones and others.
-omgpham made velocity stacks for his ITB setup, and a ECU mounting solution. As far as I'm aware he doesn't sell them or make them for anyone, so I feel ok designing similar products.
-saw a battery tray somewhere on here
-working on a front end too (big project)

-I'm ready to start churning out the radio delete panels currently, they can be customized with color, they can come in blank and hex so far, with 1 or 2 gauge pods, the angles on the pods can be adjusted to better fit driver height and sight lines. Currently only have them for the NA since that's the only car I have to prototype on. If somebody in the Seattle area wants to bring me their other cars I'd love to prototype new parts and expand my offerings (even outside miatas). They would start at $15 for flat, $20 for gauges, plus shipping and add a couple bucks here or there depending on modifications.
-I'm questionable about selling the intakes, purely from a liability standpoint. I don't have flow data on them (I'm a bio major, not ME), I expect they would flow ballpark like the ARC intakes given the similarities in design. I'd rather sell the files for these, since somebody with a printer is more likely to understand the limitations of different filaments. That said, I ran a PLA one (don't do that) wrapped in DEI gold for 3 months before I melted part of it by idling for too long (it needs airflow to remain cool). I've been running my PETG one for 2 months without the wrap, and haven't had any issues. An intake would run about $100 and take 4-5 days to print, I'd sell the files for $40
-both antenna plugs and visor deletes would run about $10-12 shipped.
-Cup holder would probably be ~$20 plus shipping, it depends on which flat rate box it'll fit in, might be able to get that lower.
-I'd have to get in touch with SadFab about the TPS brackets, I feel like even if I designed it independently they would be so similar, and I'm already aware of their product, so I'm not trying to copyright infringe anyone.
-It'd be pretty cool to do the velocity stacks and ECU mount. I'll design the ECU mount when I get mine in a couple weeks, probably a dash bar mount, which could be modified to fit cages and whatnot. Maybe some cable management built in. Probably run about $40-50 plus shipping. Velocity stacks would be a custom per person endeavor, probably ballpark $100-150 for design and printing, I'd need to pick up some nylon or Ultem for those to perform well.

I do other work too, so if you have an idea for something you need designed and printed, let me know. I'd love to get feedback on these ideas and see what people need and are interested in.
[Mods: I'm not sure if I need to be a vendor to post something like this, let me know if I need to change/do anything to be in compliance]

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...76a1234234.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...436d8fa53a.jpg

A fog light intake for my buddy's prelude (unfinished, lots of stringing):
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dcd178e98a.jpg

Cool. Probably need to be a vendor. But cool.

Not sure if you're looking for more parts candidates, but two I would buy in a flash would be:

- a cover for the gas/trunk levers for people who remove the large centre console/use a shorty one. Jetstream have one but it's made of GRP and expensive to get if you're not in Japan. See: NBƒtƒFƒCƒJ�[
- same use case, a cover for the front of where the centre console is removed, like this: https://imgur.com/46Ixtr6

Six, Should I apply for that? How does that work? Not trying to step on any toes.

Junk, dope, thanks man, I'll start working on those, they both seem fairly straight forward to design

3DP is cool, but has limitations. Have been testing a dozen parts/projects on my car so far, some work, some don't. Especially with engine/intake parts pay attention to temp, creep, and the fact that if something fails, it may cost you a motor.

Already got you covered for that, albeit molded from 3DP parts. Still tweaking minor details, as I need them to be perfect.

I would go for the gas/trunk lever cover

Harry, Just a matter of materials testing and knowing what certain filaments can and can't do. Plastic 3d printing will never replace turbos or engine blocks, even with exotic materials, but SLM printing has already done both. Nylons are comparable to the thermoplastics found in most OEM plastic parts as far as temperature resistance, but stronger.

Bonez, I'll have a design by tonight, prototype by tomorrow. Should be finished tweaking by the end of the week hopefully.

Reasonably accurate prototype of the gas/trunk latch cover:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fbecb0eed2.png

Would anyone want "gas" and "trunk" on them? Pretty easy to add text as an option.
Printer is occupied with some gauge pods, so I'll start it tomorrow morning, probably be finished Wednesday morning, and I'll tweak and update.
Can someone shoot me a picture of their levers? The jet stream part shows them the same length, but mine are 2 different lengths. Shouldn't impact function, just curious on differences. I also have a stripped interior, so no carpet, so I'm ballparking how tall the sides need to be, again, shouldn't effect function. If anyone in the north seattle area wants one and is willing to meet up for me to check out their setup, I'll do a discount on one.

No need for labels imo - they're on the levers themselves.

The jetstream one is for an NB which is probably why it looks different to yours. No idea if the tunnel / rear shelf wall / lever positioning etc is the same between NAs and NBs. I imagine they're pretty close though.

id be down for a NA antenna plug and o ring, my antenna has never worked so i might as well delete it. I have 80gb of music on a usb flash drive so i think im safe to delete the antenna and fix a leak

Junk, Oh, true, good call. That makes sense, only ever been in an NA

Alti, cool, I'll start working on a design for it.

FFS, just print a new top tank for that radiator, before bad things happen.

OK, so that may not be a good solution, but one way or another you need to replace that radiator soon, very soon.

Buy my things and maybe I'll have enough money to replace it. FWIW, it's been the same color since before it even got to the states. I'd also need a separate trans cooler.

The only concern I have is this.

The Honda Insight community attempted stuff like this in the past. It worked great for those who lived in canada/uk where the temp never gets above 90F. However for those of us, like me, who live in hot climates (I live in socal where it gets to 120F+ (49(C)ommunist units) all the 3d printed parts just melted. Does the 3d print plastic you have capable of withstanding 160F+ in direct sunlight for 8+ hours without warping?

PLA will die. Nylon and ABS should be fine. stinky stuff.

Yep, what Ryan said. You just need to take a look at the glass transition temps. The thermoplastics used in 3D printing sort of have two melting points if you will. The first and lower is the glass transition temperature, this is where the structure of the bonds between the atoms degrades slightly, and the plastic acts like an amorphous solid, if there is stress applied at this point, the material will deform, warp, etc. The initial PLA intake I was running did this over time. The second temp is the actual melting temp, which if you reached, your car would be on fire, its around 190-200*C for PLA, 230-250*C for PETG, 250*C ish for Nylon and ABS.
For glass transition temps:
PLA: 60*C, PETG: 85*C, ABS 110*C, Nylon is dependent on the constituent mix and ratios, but it ballparks around ABS range.

I print almost exclusively in PETG just because I like the characteristics better and it handles pretty much everything you'd encounter, you get nice finished surfaces right off the printer, and there's no warping or heat sensitivity while printing. But, I'm going to be branching out into Nylon if people have the need for it.

There are already lots of antenna delete plugs, 3d plastic, rubber, billet aluminum screw type and push in steel plugs. I would focus on new ideas, since there are others out there making lots of little parts line visor deletes/go pro mount, radio, "delete stuff" is popular. I would be interested in 3d printed wing window plates to mount ralley type mirrors, or even apr cf mirrors. Also, hvac vent blanking plugs to mount a gauge, or switches ect, or just for a clean look if hvac is removed. Flat blanking plugs for the fog light/cruise buttons to allow switch mounting or the "clean look". Glove box "delete panel", basically a lightweight cover that rids of the heavy(nb) box. A 3d printed nb battery cover/panel to cover the battery so nothing falls down in the battery well, or shorts out your + connection(assuming you ditch the oem trunk liner).

I'd be genuinely interested in the rear trunk latch cover.
If you did decide to print off a few I have an NB and would be glad to test one out. ;)

Brainz, I'm starting with the basics, but I could definitely look into some of your design ideas, I'm not sure what you mean about the wing window plates, just the oval mounts that work with the stem type mirrors? I've considered doing mirror shells, the sticking point is the stem, which would have to be made of something else, but all of the other parts could be done fairly easily. For the HVAC blanking plugs, do you mean the HVAC controls, or the HVAC outlets? Either would be fairly straight forward to produce. The button blanks would also be fairly easy to make, I'm working on a radio delete panel with switch mounts currently. I don't have the build volume for a glove box shell, but if this picks up, I'll pick up a CR-10 which should be able to do those. The battery tray/panel would also be pretty straight forward to produce. My biggest sticking point currently for your ideas is that I don't have an NB to prototype on. If someone with an NB could confirm what is the same between the NA and NB, I could prototype on my car, but I think the whole interior was changed.

008, I've got the prototype printing right now. If you were local, I'd be more than willing to give you one if I could prototype on your car.

Pretty cool what can be done with a 3d printer but all I could think about is how brown your radiator is..haha.

Was interested in purchasing a 3D printed parts feeler. I am disappoint.

Six, I mean I can probably come up with something, they do have some flexible filaments nowadays that might fit your "needs", but I'm going to have to upcharge you for the unusual request

Might have to look into upgrading to that larger printer to keep up with sixshooters "feeler" needs.

Take apr cf mirrors and fasten to a triangular panel that attaches to the wing window/qrtr window frame/ or window. Similar to lots of existing cf mirror options for evo, civic wrx ect. To get the mirror higher up. For hvac vents, the circular set of 4. A plug that replaces the entire oem piece once removed. It would be smooth and flat. Would look nice, and provide gauge/switch/phone mount options. NA and NB battery compartments are completely different. Google images can probably help you see the difference. Nb would be easiest, as it would be mostly a flat panel. I think there is an oem heavy cardboard like tray but is part of the spare/jack cover. If you gut the trunk, a battery cover would be Ideal for safety/and tidyness. Fog light ducts for nb1/nb2(different) that replace fog light and provide a nice smooth funnel to a 3" hose end for brake/oil cooler ducting. So far your stuff looks good, wish I could be playing around. Good luck

HVAC vents and fog light ducts are doable. I like your idea for the mirrors, but between sizing and strength concerns, it could be done better for cheaper with fiberglass, and as my build thread is a testament, that is not my forte. I can look into working on a riser that would bring the mounting point up higher, but it would need track testing at high enough speeds that I felt safe before I sold any, don't want people's mirrors flying off on the highway. I could do the battery cover, just need an NB, it would be in two pieces that would slide, snap, or otherwise mount together. Since it just sits on top of a hole the strength isn't that paramount.

I suppose I should put it out at this point that everything I make is "track use only", which I believe is the industry catch all term for "if you break it and hurt yourself or others it's not my ass"

I'm guessing the $40-50 velocity stack price is per stack? I may need some kind of custom stack so I can fit ITBs with ABS. I can design them, I would just need them printed.

No, that price was for the ECU mounting bracket, sorry that was a little vague. The ITB's would be 100-150, and that's for a set of 4 and me designing them. If you just want to have me print your design, it would be $2 per hour of print time if you're ok with mint, blue, or pink that I have on hand, or the cost of filament and $2 per hour of print time for any of these colors: https://www.makergeeks.com/collectio...ilament-1-75mm

Also, while I'm pretty sure ABS would handle it just fine, I'd personally go with Nylon for these, specifically: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/NylonX

Cool Thanks. Ill hit you up when I'm ready.

You know I was thinking. With the higher heat resistance printing material, do you know if it would be possible to print a vented headlight cover? Most of them out there are 100+$, and a cheap option would be great! I would clear coat it with automotive clear to protect it long term from UV.

I would like someone to design an attractive headlight cover that would be a vent to allow air out from up under the hood. The trailing edge of the headlight cover is in a very low pressure zone and a great place for an extraction vent.

3d printed Fender Vents and Hood Vents! Particularly "Kidney Shape" extraction vents for the hood. Tire spats like the Jetstream/Garage Vary options for NA and NB would be tits. I already have the jetstream pieces, but they are smaller than I'd like. Also in for 3d printed kitty that doesn't shit.

PA, sounds good, let me know when you're close and I'll order the filament.

Balto, Yeah, with a NACA duct? I should be able to do both a full one and just the NACA duct for those willing to cut their headlight cover. I'll have to check out the sizing of it.

Six, I can't tell if you're serious, I don't know where the pressure areas are, but I could easily make one. Define "attractive", they would probably look like mini cowls, but I could also just make a holy version that would evacuate air without changing much exterior design.

Brain, Been working on some ideas for the hood vents already, seems like a prime utilization of 3D printing. Tire spate would also be pretty easy, just need to look at mounting points, and get some sort of flow data on it. I actually could 3D print a kitty, but it wouldn't move much. Not that different from most kitties now that I think of it.

Anybody interested in pos-cat themed miata turbo placards?

Yes, totally serious.

Looking for the air pressure chart unsuccessfully so far...

Whats a NACA duct?

Oh yes, just like that!

Please
 

NA Miatas:
Turn Signal Intakes
could you make a grill?
can you make the Mazda M logo? What about various other Miata, mx-5, or roadster emblems?
i would prefer a screw and O-ring antenna delete plug, for what it’s worth.

Turn signal intakes are useless and already exist so there's no reason to make more of them. Grills already exist and restrict airflow to the radiator so there's no reason to make those. Emblems are already plastic and a readily available online. Someone has already pointed out that antenna delete plugs are also available online.

Well, aren't you just a Debbie Downer today.

Sigh.

I guess.

Just trying to help him find something truly marketable that isn't already offered.

How about hood vents designed with the shape of the underhood ribbing in mind? Maybe something just aft of the headlight doors with a built-in gurney lip?

What about finned tire spats that could rivet to the front side bumper (put some aluminum bar behind the bumper material so it's rivetable) of an NA and fix the airflow around the front bottom of the tire? Anything that minimizes lift without increasing drag at that location would be a plus. I can't even count how many cars I've seen with splitters that leave this area stock.

What about a gauge pod that replaces the stock cowl over the gauge cluster?

Agreed that hood vents are always welcome.

I feel that there are a lot of possibilities in terms of custom tombstones made to order. Not everyone needs radios, HVAC controls, vents, etc but some do and want the ability to mount gauges that are easily visible from the driver's seat.

Or maybe make air vents with a lipped tube outlet so you can use them like normal or clamp on hoses and run them into a helmet or something.

G-lip vents?
Headlight lids?
Door window triangle window thing with 3" vent intake.
AC vent delete
Hazard and pop-up button delete
Cluster delete

I found this. I think this is what you were looking for.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...nts-nbhood.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...166b4743cb.jpg

Interesting, the NA and NB hoods have totally different low pressure zones.

I'm guessing methodology and instrumentation differences.

What about a coolant overflow, oil catch can combo.
ie. Have a single container that partitions half of the unit to coolant. And the other half to catch can duties.
I really want to consolidate the real estate under my hood, And this would help alot.

Also just to clarify, the container would be sealed so no cross contamination between the 2.

I think it will melt.

Well the stock overflow is plastic. I'm just not sure if the printed plastics have a lower melting point or not.

Yes yes yes yes this PLEASE.,

Also, looks like we got lots of votes for the vented headlight covers!

Jessto, I like your ideas, but like six said, they're all already available. I mean some of my other products are too, but there are things that 3D printing just can do as well as say injection molding or fiberglass, etc... If somebody else can make a better product for cheaper, it would make sense for me to devote my resources elsewhere. I would like to at some point print an entire front bumper, but I'm going to need a designated printer for that, and it'll take like a month to print, so it would end up being printed as a male for a female mold.

Six, hood vents are definitely doable, I've been working on some designs, but nothing concrete yet. Can you give me a better idea about what you're looking for, I really like the idea, just not sure where to start.

Broken, Spats are doable, just need to look into the aero/flow, if you have a link handy with data that would be helpful. I've been looking into doing a new gauge hood , but i'd like to scan in my dash area so I can work from the actual thing instead of ballparking measurements for a new one. Once I've got that, adding a gauge pod(s) would be cake. Custom tombstones are doable, they'd be printed in 2 pieces and fused. I think most people want to run something there, be it their HVAC controls, radio, or at least the hazards/pop ups, so I think the main interest is in deletes for specific areas to customize piece by piece, but I can do a full tombstone. I assume you mean a wing window vent, also doable, but I think the routing of the hose would interfere with either driver vision or driver escape. I could do a NACA duct with an outlet that could sit on the rear corner of a lexan hardtop window and route the air in from behind so it doesn't get in the driver's way.

Joker, Project-G already makes the windows for them, the actual vents can be found for like 5 bucks, mine would be 15 minimum, and not see through. headlight lids are in the works, vented specifically, regular ones can be had for super cheap from part outs on craigslist. Project-G already makes those, but I could make NACA ducts for lexan wing windows that would accomplish that idea, again, not see through. AC vent deletes are in the works. Hazard/pop up deletes would be a track only item (technically everything I make is), but I'm hesitant to make anything that interferes with safety equipment like the hazards, some kid would put in a delete, break down on the highway, get smacked by a car because they didn't have hazards on, and that would be on me, even if not liability wise. I assume you mean the full gauge cluster delete, presumably for custom gauge setups, that's entirely doable, again, 2 pieces because of the size, fused together. This guy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2252864 already makes a raspberry pi race dash, and is working on a write up for install.

Mat, dope, thanks man

My though on the different zones would be what's in those places under the hood, If there's a big open area, air can flow in and fill it instead of squeezing through tight gaps quickly, bernoulli's principle. so anywhere you have a hole, you'll have a low pressure area. That doesn't account for the area in front of the engine, but I think the flow characteristics through there explain that, that air is still moving and hasn't stagnated, and more air is still pushing in, so air doesn't sit there. That said, it does look like those two were done separately, perhaps by different people, so take them for the trends they offer rather than the actual numbers.

008, The OEM plastics are thermoset plastics, whereas 3D printer plastics are thermoplastics. OEM thermoset plastics are made and you can't melt them down and remake them again, they just burn. 3D printer thermoplastics can be melted down and formed again with no change in molecular structure. As such, OEM plastics are formed at higher heats, and can withstand higher heats. Nylon maaaaaaaybe able to handle catch can/overflow duty, mostly because it has the chemical resistance too. I'm of course talking about a real catch can here, not a tube going into a coke bottle catch can, the temperatures they have to withstand are much different when they're fully sealed and offer a return. I like the ideas, but I think this is another instance of aluminum can do it better, safer, and for around the same price.

Balto, just need an hour of local access to a 3D scanner and it'll happen, I haven't had any luck finding anywhere that didn't charge out the ass. If anybody has one, I would drive several hundred miles to get it done for a reasonable price. Yeah, vented headlight covers are a go.

Awesome! As soon as the vented headlight covers are available let me know, I'll throw money at you for both sides. I'll also be able to test the extreme for you since I'm in SoCal and the 125F days are coming soon.

Same with the gauge hood, if you ever get it done, I'll throw money at you so fast.

Finished the prototype trunk/gas lever cover. Sending it to 008 on Monday for NB testing. Would still like to try it out on someone local who has carpet before I release them, but 008's test should tell me what I need to know about it. My levers are a bit bent as the top down photo can show you, but line up nicely with the part when pushed to the correct alignment as shown. Again, 008 will confirm that the part lines up properly and doesn't have any fitment issues. There are a couple different types of interior screws Mazda used, no idea which ones originally were used there as I have mixed and matched many times, but both common types fit in the holes. The domed ones look a little nicer than the ones with a flange, I think.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5a79bed5c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7991bc9e5d.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...008090faac.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...78401a9b9c.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e0db42255.jpg

That's attractive

You need to google more. Most of that is already offered. We are trying to come up with new ideas.

Six, Thanks, It'll come raw like that unless people want me to prep and paint it for them, probably charge like $5 for that for the paint. I figure most people here are capable of using sand paper and spray paint themselves though. I do have a few different colors of filament though if people plan to keep it raw but want a different color scheme. I'll put together a small preview print with all the colors sometime here soon.

Brain, those are already offered, but even people very well versed in miatas don't know about all of the aftermarket options.

Your prints look really clean. What printer setup are you using (if you don't mind me asking)?

Prusa i3 mk3, it's a broken POS, get the mk2s or wait for updates down the road. I've disconnected half the machine to get it to run right, so essentially I spent an extra $300 frustrating myself. It's in an enclosure which doesn't seem to change anything except that I can't print PLA in it, ABS still warps and splits. PETG is my golden child, but I get lots of stringing. I print 0.2mm layers, anything lower sucks, the firmware needs an update for the volumetric flow rates. I figure print nozzles are like gauges, they work best in the middle of their range. so my 0.4mm nozzle prints best at 0.2mm layers. Prusa doesn't stock new build plates yet (backlogged for over a year) and my build plate is starting to get sketchy. The PETG has excellent adhesion, so excellent that it's pulling up bits of my PEI sheet much to my chagrin. They're like 10 bucks and 3 hours to replace them plus shipping from Europe. I want to find a glass bed that will work and I can just razor blade things off. Oh and I get lots of ghosting, probably a combination of my janky enclosure cabinet and poor design on Prusa's part. It's fairly quiet though, I sleep with it in my room.
As far as my print settings, I print 235C extrduer and 85C bed for the first 3 layers, then 240C extruder and 90C bed for the rest. I usually slow it to 85% on the printer because it gets better quality with only a small impact on time. 4 perimeters, 20% infill 3D hex pattern, support anything over 50 degrees overhang, rectilinear supports, 0.2 mm Z separation, 70% layer XY separation (need to go more). I slice with slic3r prusa edition (it sucks).
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean before each print, acetone every 10-15 prints to refresh the PEI, gun oil to lube my linear rods and Z axis.
I've printed an extruder fan shroud to prevent unintended print cooling, and I had an updated print fan shroud for a while, but it warped and started dragging on prints, so I'm back to the stock one. Do yourself a favor and save up for a SLA printer if you want one, the world will be your oyster.

You must be doing a lot of cleanup work then, because all of your prints look great. I have not had all of those same issues, but I do have issues with ABS separating. That is the one that I have not been able to completely solve in my time printing so far.

I have never used PETG. Are the prints you show on this thread all PETG?

Mrmonk, Hmm I didn't get one from you, do you mind sending me another? I'll get you set up. I've got 2 more prints and I'll start churning out the lever covers for people. I assume you're NA, I've got the prototype out to 008 yesterday, so later this week we'll know more about NB fitment.

JD, I spend some time removing support interface layers that like to bond in place, and I usually have to clean up edges, and take a heat gun to it which shrivels up the stringing and makes it easy to remove. Everything in this thread is PETG, its super simple to print with, no warping or splitting issues, and it holds up way better to heat and stress, less rigid than PLA, less crystalline of a structure, so it absorbs blows better and the working heat resistance is 25C higher. I've spent a lot of time working on calibration and getting a perfect first layer, it makes a big difference in print quality.