Adjustable Sway Bar End Links ($75 shipped) - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-04-2008, 10:46 AM   #21
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Try to build a set of my end links using mcmaster parts. It's not possible.

You can buy a male and female rod ends and thread them into each other. You could also use washers as spacers.

With this method, adjusting them would be a PITA and you are guaranteed to bind during transition. Ask me how I know?

The metric rod ends at mcmaster are cheapie oil impregnated, linerless, zinc plated crap. You will hear the quality within a few months of purchase.

I have my turnbuckles and spacers CNC'd to my specifications and my rod ends are much, much higher quality.

If you would like, I can put together a list of mcmaster parts if you would rather go that route.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:15 PM   #22
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What rod ends do you use? Do they have teflon lined races? I just priced building some with right and left hand threaded QA1 teflon lined rod ends and right/left hand threaded McMaster Carr 6061 AL turnbuckle and the total comes to $78.16 without the spacers and jam nuts or shipping, so I think your price is more than fare if you are using qulity teflon lined rod ends. I need a new set for the ES car since I have the crappy AWR ones that are clacking like mad now. I will pick a set of yours up after I get paid next week.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:19 PM   #23
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I would do tube inserts, one lh and one rh rod end (and they have high strength ones, or I would get them from aurora rod ends) and voila. Add some jam nuts (30 cents) and your done.

I made the same thing for a four link last year.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:22 PM   #24
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What rod ends do you use? Do they have teflon lined races? I just priced building some with right and left hand threaded QA1 teflon lined rod ends and right/left hand threaded McMaster Carr 6061 AL turnbuckle and the total comes to $78.16 without the spacers and jam nuts or shipping, so I think your price is more than fare if you are using qulity teflon lined rod ends. I need a new set for the ES car since I have the crappy AWR ones that are clacking like mad now. I will pick a set of yours up after I get paid next week.

My rod ends have a chromolly housing and teflon race. The typical cheapie way to go is a mild steel housing and oil impregnated bearing.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:25 PM   #25
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My rod ends have a chromolly housing and teflon race. The typical cheapie way to go is a mild steel housing and oil impregnated bearing.
To be honest ive only used teflon rod bearings.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:27 PM   #26
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I would do tube inserts, one lh and one rh rod end (and they have high strength ones, or I would get them from aurora rod ends) and voila. Add some jam nuts (30 cents) and your done.

I made the same thing for a four link last year.
If you can find a 2" turnbuckle or (tube insert) with RH/LH 10mm threaded ends off the shelf, please let me know. It would save me a bunch of money and reduce the cost of the end links. I have to have mine made.

Also if you can find somewhere that has LH 10mm lock nuts for 30 cents, hook me up. I pay over $1 for each LH lock nut.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:29 PM   #27
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Why two in turn buckle?

And why are you paying so much for nuts? You can get backs of 100 for 10 bucks.

And Poly bushing rod ends for 10 bucks each. I can make these for 40 bucks (including buying 100 lock nuts)

I think your offering is good, Im just letting people know theres another option there. Although I guess its limited to people who can weld.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:32 PM   #28
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Why two in turn buckle?
That's the smallest possible. The standard ride height links have a 2.625" turnbuckle, but if installed on a lowered car with a big bar and sticky tires, theres a chance of the sway bar hitting the upper control arm.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:34 PM   #29
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And why are you paying so much for nuts? You can get backs of 100 for 10 bucks.

Left Hand 10mm x 1.5 Jam nuts? Please tell me where.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:35 PM   #30
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Why are you using metric?

I dont see any reason to used metric or anything above grade 2

90083A227 mcmaster part number I would do it SAE, but easier to get parts.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:40 PM   #31
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And for the spacers i would just use tubing
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:41 PM   #32
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That's the smallest possible. The standard ride height links have a 2.625" turnbuckle, but if installed on a lowered car with a big bar and sticky tires, theres a chance of the sway bar hitting the upper control arm.
Tube insert is only 3/4 of a inch aroundish, you can make the tube to whatever length you want.

Im not being a dick, I am just saying there are other ways to do things
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:45 PM   #33
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If you can find a 2" turnbuckle or (tube insert) with RH/LH 10mm threaded ends off the shelf, please let me know. It would save me a bunch of money and reduce the cost of the end links. I have to have mine made.
I may have a source. Fine or coarse thread?
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:45 PM   #34
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I propose a build-off. LOKI v. 4WHLS

Loki, how much could you put a set together for?
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:48 PM   #35
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40 bucks i think, but i don't need one. I will get all the parts list together and someone can make one.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:50 PM   #36
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I may have a source. Fine or coarse thread?
Nevermind, the shortest I can get them is 70mm @ $7.10 each through Misumi.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:53 PM   #37
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You are installing spherical bearing for two reasons:

1. Adjustability to remove preload
2. Increased response time, due to not having to wait for rubber to compress.

A SAE 3/8 rod end is 0.375", A 10mm is 0.394". That's 0.019" of slop. Think how fast the component will wear with that slop.

I don't know how much the rubber in OE end links compress, but if you are waiting for the transition of 0.019", how much of a benefit are the end links.

If that slop were in a hole for a bolt holding on a fender, I don't think it's that big of a deal. For a suspension component, I feel it's drastic, but to each their own.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:55 PM   #38
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I would just put a bigger bolt though it. No slop 1/2 the price
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:28 PM   #39
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I got mine yesterday. awesome craftmanship. Good quality product. Will update later when there installed.
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:30 PM   #40
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OK here is a break down to make 25 sets (so no waste on nuts or spacers) of 3/8" rod ends using McMaster Carr parts.

50 3/8" teflon lined rod ends, RH @ $12.78 ea. - $639.00
50 3/8" teflon lined rod ends, LH @ $12.78 ea. - $639.00
50 3/8" Turnbuckles w/ RH and LH Threads @ $13.52 ea. - $676.00
50 3/8" LH jam nuts (bag quantity) @ $11.24
100 3/8" RH jam nuts (bag quantity) @ $10.66
6' of tubing for spacers (shortest you can buy) @ $32.09
______________________________
Total - $2007.99

So for 25 sets, you would have $80.32 per set in materials plus labor to cut the spacers and a few inches of tubing and 50 RH nuts left. I think Shawn is offering us a bargain for correctly sized (10 mm) endlinks.
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