Baller racecar tubular heim-jointed suspension
 

Can't believe I'm doing this but if there is a serious buyer I am selling my tubular suspension! Included are all heim joints, front and rear a-arms, modified rear knuckles, front knuckles, front ball joints!
These will require spacers to be made for the heim joints in the factory subframe! Front upper will need 1/2-20 nuts welded onto the factory subframe!

These are not direct bolt in a-arms. These are for you crazy racecar guys.
I have lots of money into these and will let everything go for $2500 obo will sell for less minus heims! Serious offers only, don't waste my time!
Will trade for leightweight doors,trunk (carbon) or some 15x10 wheels!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403623250
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403623250
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403623250

Can even include my modified rear subframe!

Looks pretty! But I thought heim joints in bending was bad?

Confused as to what your asking.

Rod ends in bending are a compromise. By using staked in spherical bearings, or some other form of bearing that doesn't load the threads in bending, you can make a lighter design. Since you don't want the threads to deform, you must oversize the rod end quite a bit, over what they could be. Assuming that the rod ends used in these control arms are oversized enough that plastic deformation won't ever occur, they are fine. To put it simple, a little bit of weight is sacrificed for easy adjustment.

To add to this, rod ends are rated for side load. I imagine that 1/2" rod ends are rated 5 times higher than any load that they'll see in this application.

Depends on the brand. I was considering going up to 5/8" sphericals on the FLCAs because the Aurora ComC 1/2" ones only had like a factor of safety just over 2 and I didnt want to have to keep replacing them once a season. Then I discovered the NHBB ones. Either way, rod ends in bending is bad juju, and most of them are in those arms. And its just lazy design, I know a guy who makes spherical kits for hondas and such that will cut custom weld in bearing cups for about the price difference between sphericals and rod ends, so it aint for the cost savings and he's not exactly the cheapest guy to work with.

I was really hoping I could have been the first one to make miata rear lower control arms with the toe link like that.

*Edit, didnt realize we were shitting up a for sale thread. To make you feel better, the control arms I priced out are like $1500 in just material, $1200 of that being just the bearings, their bearing cups, and the spacers.

These arms have a mix of 5/8" heims as well as 1/2"! These are the same as a multi national champion SCCA EP car. These are no way near a cheap setup and were designed and built to be reliable and used on a racecar!

Bump for $2000 minus heims!

The arms look very similar to what most off road race cars and trucks use, which take much more abuse than a street car will ever see. What material are they made from?

May I ask: Why are you selling?

Could use the money instead!

Bumping this because I need these gone!
Whats included:
Rear upper and lower control arms
Front upper and lower control arms
Front lower ball joint, front upper ball joint
Front and Rear Spindles with hubs and extended wheel studs.

You will need to source your own heim joints!
Looking for $1500 shipped. This is a steal for these arms at that price.
Any serious racer/autocrosser, anyone building a SCCA EP car.

This suspension never saw track time, is that correct?

Sadly you are correct!

Yeah, that's kind of what I thought. Not really willing to drop that kind of cash on unproven parts. Those front LCAs in particular look scary to me.

These are built and proven by Jon Brakke.
Multiple SCCA EP National Championships!

My arms are new, design is proven and tested!

I don't know how the LCA's look scary!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422540874

Is that bar or tubing? What diameter? If it's tubing, do you know the wall thickness?

It looks scary, because it doesn't look strong enough to hold up to the forces of my slicks on an autocross course. It substantially smaller tubing than v8 roadster and they're on their 6th or 7th design trying to come up with arms that don't fail.

Do you know what those weigh?