BRP M45 Coldside Manifold
 

If you have an M45 and are looking for throttle response... THIS IS the manifold to have. I'm running 10+psi- and it's an absolute blast. I will include my custom pulley set up (the original was a POS) My custom one has been on the car with the same belt for 30K miles- it has a VW style adjuster, uses one less idler pulley then the BRP one.

This is a 4Rib Belt set up.

I'm asking $350 for the manifold (+ shipping)- BRP M45 Coldside Manifold --
Includes: Manifold
MAF relocation mount and (the 3" vacuum Cleaner hose thing)
Custom Pulley set up ( 1/4" plate AL w/ VW pulley)
Misc TB Bracket/ adaptor
Original BRP install instructions
I may have an extra belt (IF -I do I'll throw it in)

After 50K miles my SC is dead- and I don't plan on rebuilding my SC every two years- so another Turbo set up is in motion...

P.S. The dandruff looking stuff on the belt is SNOW... This is still on the car- I will be removing after the holidays...

Damn I like this.
Shame I am putting down my miata endeavors. Hope it sells quick for ya.

Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but will a M45 from a hotside JSRC kit bolt up to this manifold?

yep

That's the beauty-- BRP designed this as an "upgrade" to the Hotside JRSC- the original instructions included the JRSC Hotside, and a supplement guide for the coldside . Basically- I am selling "The Kit" to make your M45 JRSC hotside a coldside.

For those BRP history Buffs--I bought the car with the M45 already installed--The car was originally from CT- this kit was installed by "BADBOB"- And turns out one of the very first by BRP-- And the car is now running Bob's old Link ECU.

Any idea if this will work on a NB (2000 if that would matter)?

what happens to the alternator?
where is the S/C outlet [for plumbing to an existing A/W IC, located in the crossover pipe from the hotside to the dummy throttle body]?
does it use the old alternator drive pulley on the crank?
does your car have either PS or A/C?

Chiefmg
This manifold will not work on a NB. The heads are different.

MX594m
1 The alternator stays where it already is
2 You will not use or need the A/W IC for this set up. That is the beuaty of the coldside. The outlet of the S/C goes directly into an intake plenum.
3 Yes
4 It does not matter with the cold side as it uses the Alt water pump belt rather than the PS AC Belt.

This is a HELL of a deal.

If it doesn't sale in a couple week I might pick it up and pair it with a fresh M45 I have on the workbench to make a complete kit and try to re-sell it that way.

Gahh, I want this so bad! I wish I had cash, I just had to dump money in my water pump/timing belt change.

Hopefully it still will be around later

no provisions for cooling the charge? or is an IC build in? or ????

with an M-45 the temperature of the air being compressed is raised [nominal 18 degrees F per pound of boost], how is that mitigated? I can think of only three choices, cool the air, add extra fuel, retard advance, or [a fourth, drop cylinder compression]

No cooling. Just a better placement for the blower. I mean it is cooler than sitting over the header. But other than that.

If I didn't just put a ton of money into my turbo kit I would have bought this in a second...

Looks like ???'s answered (lots of M45 knowledge here)
This is on my DD (including snow :)). My car is a 1994 it has PS, AC, ABS and a five trumpet Dixie horn. It doesn't matter--- PS and AC remains in stock location.

Ideally on a car without ABS you could reroute the intake along the rightside (pass) as well. (and take the air from a turnsignal intake) (With ABS you can go under the manifold- but then need to place the air cleaner in some really dirty locations. For additional cooling WI would be the way to go. There is plenty of area on the underside to tap into the manifold.

IIRC I posted my MS timing map around here few years back -it was very close to the intercooled turbo's. (I don't have that laptop anymore with the maps)

Are you selling the M45?

^^^ If he isn't I have one that has been extensively worked over by the High Speed Lab. Would make one hell of a kit along with what the OP is selling.

Please let me know if you still have this for sale, and I have the following questions:

Will it fit the 1.6?
What else is needed other than the M45 supercharger?
Will this work with the stock fuel setup?
Thanks!

Mark

1) No
2) Some form of engine management to control fuelling and timing i.e. MegaSquirt, eManage etc.
3) Yes, just about.

If you run it at low boost like 6 psi will it require anything other than fpr?

Please PM me back im thinking i might go ahead and get this. do you still have the actual supercharger that would need a rebuild?

Sorry I haven't been around--
Been busy at work...

Here's a pic-- as you can see it's uninstalled and ready to ship not shown is the 3" vac hose for the air intake I forgot to include it in the pic...

"I think" to get this installed all you will need is...

Cone Air filter
An 1/8 npt fittings for YOUR vac/boost gauge (most gauge kits come with)
A couple of feet of 1/8" vac lines
There is a hobb pressure switch on the manifold I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT'S FOR (I use a link ECU) - so it just fills the hole--lol...
You'll re-use a few things like the MAF mounting bolts, and one of the Alternator bracket mounting bolt (the 14mm that goes into the engine block)
Blue RTV
OH yeah a better working SC

The manifold is a two piece design (you'll need some RTV to seal it)- I found it easiest to remove the starter/Oil pressure sender/Alternator before trying to fit it in. It's not difficult to install - just time consuming.

For the price of shipping you can have the SC...

The only way to adjust boost is pulley size-- you would need to source a larger pulley. (Actually this SC as the bypass there might be a way with an EBC but I don't have a clue...

IIRC- The original kit only used an AFPR and BIPES ACU.

hi do u still have the kit?

I have a buyer- if they back out over the weekend I'll update

Do you have any instructions for the kit. I bought the same kit a month ago and would love an instruction set if you could photo copy and mail, or email them?? Be happy to pay postage if you want.

I have already pkg'd up the instructions... The manual is quite large- but I have never read it (I'm a guy) There are actually two-- one for the JRSC- should be able to down load from moss??? The other is the BRP CS mods...

It could probably be a bit overwhelming at first but I'm sure it would go something like this...

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY -Your WRENCH WILL SLIP AND SHORT OUT YOUR ALTERNATOR

Remove starter, alternator, Intake manifold, brace, oil filter, oil sendor, all intake plumbing, fuel rail and air filter box.
Install top portion of manifold - then RTV bottom plate of manifold and install. Install brace- and reinstall starter/alternator/oil filter.

The TB gets mounted upside down on the SC and there are vac lines that get installed before the SC-- the two large ones- one for brake booster and the other for PCV. The smaller ones are for the fuel FPR and the various solenoids - The EGR doesn't get used. you'll need to extended the two water lines from the front of the engine for the TB.
The 3" vac hose runs along the back of the firewall- and the MAF w/ss "heatshield: go on driverside where the original airbox was mounted.

There are the 9-10 intake manifold bolts (reused)
12 bolts for the new IM
4 bolts for the SC
3 bolts for the brace
4 reused bolts for the MAF mount 6 x1.5
???Bolts for the pulley set up vary depending upon model

I'm uncertain of any Electrical mods needed I use a standalone ECU.

Idle will need to be adjusted as well.

If it has the original pulley set up--- checkout revlimiter's website he has decent mod with how to.

Cool, i'm pretty handy with a wrench :) The questions I have are all vacuum/electrical/fuel related. Planning to just run a power card and maybe some water injection, but otherwise stock with 8-10 psi hopefully.

I think you can reuse the 3/8" vac hose that goes to the brake booster, maybe 8' of 1/8" vac line and a couple of tee's for everything else- there's 3-4 "sources" you can use any source- just don't make a loop... The other 3/8" hose barb is for the PCV valve.

I had a hobbs switch on mine- no clue what it was for...2 other sources were vac and the other was for boost gauge.

IIRC The powercard is only 5 wires and a vac line.-- you should find some 305cc injectors-- that will help with the "lean tip in" associated with the PC. And maybe an O2 clamp