Okay so you said the T valve is better... now you say they are the same.

I do agree adjustment on the T valve is a bit easier, because on the Grainger the knob is attached to where the vacuum line attaches. But performance wise really no difference.

Either way I'm trying to get data to show the pwness (or not, who knows) of these. So if no one really wants to get a free boost controller to ---- around with and help the community then so be it.

When did this place become a bunch of flaming assho... oh wait it's MT.net ;)

Luv u gays :D :D :D :D :D :D

wait, what are you trying to accomplish here?


the grainer MBC is better. I made one for $14, and it's baller. its the same FM used to sell for $40.


I used it for my high boost level when i was still on MSI:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343054150

I used a solenoid to toggle a switch between wastegate and MBC.

What am I trying to accomplish? I want someone, well 2 people, preferably with different turbo setups, to log some ---- with these boost controllers.

I'm gonna make like 50 of them and sell them, but i need some sort of data to back it up.

Okay why do I say the T valve is better? Easier adjustment as you have no vacuum line to worry about, the T valve seems more solid since you have a thick walled T pipe on there and a giant 14 some mm nut with a same size bolt, yet operation remains the same. At last T valve is cheaper to make and all the stuff can be bought locally from ace hardware. Grainger valve has a thin wall encasing, thin wall slim nut, and a vacuum line that gets in the way of adjustment, and again operation remains the same.

I would do it for you, but timing is not right. I cant do it until late Aug.

And yet all of this is said with no real information. I can say a lot of ----. I'm great at making stuff up. Hell it might even sound half way coherent.

How often are you adjusting your boost controller? If it's that often, this isn't the boost controller for you. Manual boost controllers are for setting it and going. Not changing it 20 times a day. Get an electronic one if you want it to be easy.

T Valve "seems" more solid. This will operate with no issue under the operation conditions of a car. Unless you mount it under the valve cover.

Cheaper to make? Doubtful... less than $12? If so then go do it. This isn't for you. The nut is more than capable of holding the adjustment, and did just fine on my car for a long time.

Your argument is invalid. (Insert Picture Here)

Seriously though. GTFO.

Do you have a scale on there that says how many turns is 1 psi? Unless you do you'll have to adjust it quite a few times to get to the psi you want to run.

I'd rather tighten the nut on there good than have the nut rattle free and then all the sudden i'm running 100% wastegate. 1/8" wall is much stronger than the 1/16" wall on the grainger valve...the 1/4" width nut is much stronger than the 3/16th slim nut from the grainger valve. At last you're tightening the nut on a solid 1/2" bolt instead of the thin 1/16" wall of the grainger fitting.

Brass Tee 2.99
2 Brass hose barbs 1.45
Bolt with nut <1$
Spring and a ball. <1$.
I am running one that I made less than 12 bucks ;)

(Insert picture here)

same with the T style.


the inline style has a lock nut.


Part for the inline style are right at ~$12 as well.

http://www.lolroflmao.com/wp-content...t-see-----.jpg



The fact that both I and y8s ran this style is all you need to know.

Congrats. I would give you a boost controller for your prize, but sounds like you don't need one.

I see you have the POS Adaptronic. Can you even log with that 1930s relic? If so post some logs of T valve pwness.

We can then compare when I have logs of these. And then we will know.

Honestly the nut will not come loose unless you don't possess the strength to tighten down a nut. Some of the shitty ebay ones will ---- up. Plus you can think of the vacuum line attached to it as a fail safe, since it would need to twist the vacuum line to unscrew. See, fking win.

[quote=Braineack;906896]It's not the lack of tightening the lock nut.. it's overtightening and breaking it while doing so.



ADMIN EDIT: whoops.

uhhhhh. whos going to do that?



crap. sorry, i screwed up your post.

Whos going to do what break it while tightening it?

<this guy most likely.

Stop trying to compensate for your gay car and vmaxx suspension by tightening nuts down so hard.

I'm sorry for clogging up your thread. I wasn't expecting it to turn into a rather childish fight.

/unsubscribe

Hmm, I might be interested. I'd have to bolt my cat back in, or wait for my 3" exhaust to arrive. I also have a dyno comparison datalog to an ebay MBC.

:jerkit:

Let me know. I'm still putting them together, waiting on my .020 drill bit. So probably some time early next week I would ship.

FWIW, I too KNOW that this works. :)

I obviously haven't tried the OP's cause they aren't built yet, but my McMaster valve worked awesome sometimes but would stick open when it got real hot. I tried various locations under the hood and it didn't matter. I used a steel ball. Maybe that's why FM used a ceramic ball? If I were to build a bunch I would use the ceramic, it wasn't much more for a bag but I could buy the steel ball individually.

I will be using only ceramic when I sell them. The ceramic ones I order for the first ones were wrong, so I'm just using the brass ones until the new ones come in.


So any takers? They are totally free, just need a bit of work on your end.