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Old 07-22-2012, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default Free Manual Boost Controller (2)

Free boost controller to 2 people who:

1. Have a properly tuned, running, turbo car

2. Can provide a MS data log under all types of driving conditions such as:

4th gear acceleration until a bit after full boost
Cruise with some random acceleration (like passing a car)
Normal driving shifting through the gears
Fast driving shifting through the gears

3. Can provide the above within 2 weeks.

4. Has a decent rep on MT.net.

5. Will not need directions to install properly.

6. Resides in the US of A.


About the Boost Controller:

It's a ball and spring style valve. Comes with a brass ball and a spring that can hold 20psi.


PM if interested. It is 100% free, I will build and ship to your homestead.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:16 PM   #2
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very kind of you sir.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:21 PM   #3
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Man i'd be all over this but i JUST got mine from egay.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:01 AM   #4
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May I ask what you need the datalogs for?
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:04 AM   #5
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Probably so he knows it's going to someone with a running car that will be able to use it and not just hoarding parts.

Do you take video as payment?
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:18 AM   #6
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Or someone reselling ----.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:27 AM   #7
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Gotcha, does it just have a **** on it that twists?

I'm looking for something that is a little more accurate, with clicks or something. Mine is kind of all over the place and I have to turn, guess, turn, guess, etc.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:29 AM   #8
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That's the one i have... Simple screw.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:31 AM   #9
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^ Agreed. My ball/spring is all over the place too. Sometimes half a turn is 1 psi and in other places, a 1/4 is a few psi.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:33 AM   #10
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Now that makes no sense. What kind of a spring are you running in there? Also is the screw good?
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:36 AM   #11
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Honestly it looks like the spring had been shortened or something. 8-10psi is like 1 turn and 10-13 is like a half.

Actually I can provide a MS log for one of these or get in line at least. OP, your PM box is full.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:13 AM   #12
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Your spring is too stiff, thats why. The more you tighten it, the more it takes to compress it.

F=-kx

You want less k more x yet the F to remain the same.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:21 AM   #13
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Sorry fking account got downgraded since I didn't resubscribe.

I'm thinking about building like 100 of these and selling them for a tiny profit. I had one on my Miata back when it was turbo and it was so amazing I loved it.

Anyways I want some data so I can show people they actually work really well for the price, as long as you just need something basic.

These are the grainger valve style ones you can build off mcmaster carr for like $15. Just a screw type ****, I'll get pictures tomorrow maybe.

Clearing inbox now.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:32 AM   #14
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Is this going to be a bleeder type? I've heard these are better than just a plain ball and spring.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:37 AM   #15
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This ---- is legit.

It's easy as fk to build, so not really something I would try and sell on MT.net. Since it's so easy most people on here would just do it themselves.

Inbox is cleaned out now.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:51 AM   #16
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Got a real pic of the "grainger valve"?
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:07 AM   #17
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Sure
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:10 AM   #18
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Kinda think the T valve is better design.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:19 AM   #19
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Think all you want, proof is out there brah
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-thread-43252/

plus it's free...
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:35 AM   #20
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The T valve is a ball and spring valve also. I dont see any one posting difference in performance from grainger vs T valve.
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