vortexblue

I just pulled this off my 1990 1.6L track car this past weekend; I'm converting it back to stock. This was on the car for about 1100 miles.

-Megasquirt MS3x
-Braineack wiring harness (with install guide)
-Innovate LC-1 Wideband (new sensor)
-'BMW' TPS mounted on a stock Miata 1.6L plate (for easy install)
-dash light/ calibrate switch for LC-1
-GM air temp sensor
-vacuum tubing to run to intake
-3d printed airbox top to remove the AFM flapper
-I haven't looked into how to transfer my TunerStudio license to a different user yet, but if I can, you can have that as well.

This is EVERYTHING you need to go from a stock 1.6L ECU setup to being a Megasquirt-powered naturally aspirated Miata. My engine is stock, with only a cat-back exhaust. Even the downpipe and cat are factory. The tune should work great if you have a similar setup. I was able to get this to pass a CA smog test on the rollers with this tune as well. It's obviously not CA legal, but that's your business.

INSTALLATION:
-run the vacuum line from the intake to the cabin
-unplug the old ecu, plug in the new ECU and vacuum line
-remove O2 sensor, replace with LC1 sensor
-run LC1 wires into cabin, attach yellow wire to main ECU harness and black wire to small, new harness plug (wires are cut and easy to identify where they were attached)
-install dash switch. Ground one wire (steering column bolt?), and run the other to the end of the LC1 harness at the ecu. Connect it to the green wire (wires are cut and easy to identify where they were attached)
-remove factory TPS, replace with modified one.
-remove air box top.
-plug air sensor to factory plug (picture will be included), tie to bottom of airbox bottom.
-install 3d printed airbox top.

Fire it up!

I designed the airbox top - it was printed on a Dimension SST machine in 2 pieces (too large for 1 print). It was split during the build file to have a wobbly edge for more surface area to glue. It works fine. If you don't like the glued edge look, you can sand, fill, prime, and paint the box - it's ABS plastic. You can make it look as finished as you'd like.

I'm not sure how much value lies in the airbox top. It is really expensive to have that printed (~$600 at Shapeways, last time I checked), but there's nothing else on the market to compare it to.

Joseph Conley

Any chance you wanna give away the design? I understand if you dont but I have to ask. Great price and GLWS!

hedz0r

Also interested in the airbox lid design

x_25

That lid is dang cool. I am just using a 3" to AFM adapter to adapt my airbox and this looks waaay cleaner.

vortexblue

Here's some pics of the lid:
3d printed airbox top 2

3d printed airbox top 1


I was talking to a few people about making a mold for these and making a small run of them. Cost is always an issue... Is this something people would be interested in? I see there's already a few of you...
I don't think I'm ready to let go of the .stl file yet. I do need to decide if I'll be manufacturing these or not.

Let me sell the kit first, and we'll go from there.

cafemoto

Are you willing to sell just the MS stuff w/o the wideband and the airbox? I'm in SoCal too. PM me if yes.

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

Are you planning on rotational molding them? Tooling cost for something like that is typically $5k+. If you're plastic injection molding that's 10k+. Or do you have a manufacturing process with more affordable tooling?

vortexblue

I'm not ready to split the parts of the kit up yet, I have people interested in purchasing the kit complete right now.

As far as the tooling goes, I have nothing set up.
I have only thought about producing these in passing... no real investigation was done.
I have a CNC router; I could make a mold or plug out of layered plastic/ wood/ mdf...

My initial thought was to make it 2 pieces: the lower 'frame' which could be plastic cut on the CNC, and the 'cone', which might be fiberglass wrapped around a plug of sorts. Again, not too much thought was put into it because I didn't believe the demand would be high enough.

vortexblue

Sold!
Thanks all!