cpierr03

What chassis?

Compressor housing is aluminum, shouldn't rust. Turbine housing will and manifold, and for those temps you'll need to get it ceramic coated if you don't want it to start flaking off.

Probably not worth it for these churbos....

Nik Still

NA6.

Manifold wouldnt bother me, turbo housing will. might price it and see what i decide from there.

ysleem

iTrader: (5)

This is the glory of the mkturbo.
Nice car Zach!

More glory!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Needs numbers

cpierr03

It's in the youtube description

305 and 254, respectively

ysleem

iTrader: (5)

Here is zach's

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Dyno is a heart breaking mustang dyno. Owner says it is generally 15-20% below local dyno jets.

Benefit of this dyno is that it is load bearing and very good for actual tuning. It is the dyno I will be using long term for all my testing or tuning.

ysleem

iTrader: (5)

I think it was a solid day. Lots of learning and great people to work with at DIY Motorsports. We need more dyno events there!

ditch

quick question for you guys running the MK turbo setup, my turbo died after about 1500 miles, seals went bad and it was cooking through oil like crazy, just installed another one like the one that comes with the kit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Turbo-C...53.m2763.l2649

now it's not building boost worth a damn, old one would come on very quickly, below 3000rpm, now I'm lucky to hit 10psi by 6000rpm, doesn't even start boosting until above 4000rpm. It's set up like the previous turbo, not sure what's going on, any thoughts?
thanks

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

1. Did you put a restrictor in the oil line of the old turbo? I put .060" in mine and it's now on it's 4th yr. (since sold but I know the current owner).

2. Did you do any porting of the new turbo? (Did you port the old one?).

You could've just bought stuff to rebuild the original.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Wasting a turbo and now not building boost, kinda sounds like a boost leak to me. A boost leak will kill a turbo very quickly.

ditch

thank you everyone for the replies, I am an idiot, when I installed this new one I neglected to check the preload on the wastegate, and there was none, even a very small amount of slop, so I adjusted that and now it's running perfectly and building boost as fast as the old one. I was in a hurry to get it installed and was working too fast, never a good idea when doing this kind of work I know, learned my lesson. To answer some of the questions:

1. My kit came with an oil restrictor already installed in the oil line

2. I ported the wastegate on this one like I did the last one, works great

3. I want to learn how to rebuild and plan on doing that with the old one, didn't think too hard about buying a new replacement given the low cost, got it for under $200 shipped.

I'm still on wastegate, doing data logging and working with a tuner. Hits 6-7psi (wastgate spring) almost instantly when I'm on the gas, and well before 3000rpm every time, happy again!
Thanks again for chiming in to help, I do appreciate the advice.

Dave

Kalashnikyle

Anyone know where I can get one of these quicker than a boat ride from China? Light outward pressure is causing the flapper shaft to tighten up and bind.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

My higher than reasonable exhaust gas temperatures caused my flapper shaft to bend like a banana. Never worked right after that and I had to replace the turbo. I don't have any good ones to send you.

Make sure you don't have your timing unduly retarded or your mixture too lean.

Kalashnikyle

This was a second hand MK system purchased from another MT member. Ive have barely run the engine since installing. I noticed it was sticking a while ago, just pulled it this afternoon to investigate. I have considered ordering another complete turbo.

Schroedinger

I have an extra turbo I’ve been using for parts; can’t remember if that piece came with it though. Let me look

Kalashnikyle

Thanks for looking!

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Does it only bind that far out? It will never swing past the machined flange face when installed. Also on an MKTURBO it will point up so there will only be inward pressure. I would add a drop off oil that will burn off instantly once you drive. Then wiggle it while pushing in and see if you can get it to move freely.

Kalashnikyle

It was binding on the car. Gets stuck around the halfway mark. Typically it sticks rather than closing completely

Kalashnikyle

Is there a preferred place that sells a complete turbo with exhaust housing?