Parting out 99 Miata
#1
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Parting out 99 Miata
I have a white 99 Miata that I'm parting out. It was in a frontal collision, hood, front bumper, both front fenders are wrecked. Everything from and including the doors back is intact.
So, if you or someone you know wants some parts from this, let me know. Parts that are already accounted for: engine, trans, diff. Parts that could have some value for someone: doors, trunk lid, rear bumper cover, power plant frame, drive axles and driveshaft, misc interior trim parts, rear turn signals, ECU, etc. It is currently in running and rolling condition, so the running gear is all functional.
For now I want to keep it as a roller so that it's easier to scrap. If I get tons of interest in the rolling bits, I'd consider it, but be aware that this was a winter car and the running gear has a fair amount of rust on it.
Let me know what you need, whatever remains of this car after approx Dec 1 will be scrapped. I'm not looking to make a fortune on the stuff, just make back a few bucks from a part-out.
So, if you or someone you know wants some parts from this, let me know. Parts that are already accounted for: engine, trans, diff. Parts that could have some value for someone: doors, trunk lid, rear bumper cover, power plant frame, drive axles and driveshaft, misc interior trim parts, rear turn signals, ECU, etc. It is currently in running and rolling condition, so the running gear is all functional.
For now I want to keep it as a roller so that it's easier to scrap. If I get tons of interest in the rolling bits, I'd consider it, but be aware that this was a winter car and the running gear has a fair amount of rust on it.
Let me know what you need, whatever remains of this car after approx Dec 1 will be scrapped. I'm not looking to make a fortune on the stuff, just make back a few bucks from a part-out.
#2
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No free bump, here.
In response to some interest, the top is not as good as it looks in the pic, there is some fraying at the edges near the side windows, and there is some rust on at least one of the bows. It would be workable to someone local and desperate for a temporary stop-gap, it's not for someone who wants a long-term solution.
In response to some interest, the top is not as good as it looks in the pic, there is some fraying at the edges near the side windows, and there is some rust on at least one of the bows. It would be workable to someone local and desperate for a temporary stop-gap, it's not for someone who wants a long-term solution.
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Lol, true. Car is a base model, crank windows and manual locks. Black interior. Car runs, so if you need an ECU, fuel pump, relays, etc, they all do or should work.
As for pictures, I can take some later, but really it's a complete car with a wrecked front, parts noted in first post above are spoken for, any and all other parts are available. After I take what I need, and if no one wants anything that's left, the car will go for scrap. If someone wants something, post to thread or PM, and I'd be glad to try and peg a price. Or, you can make an offer for whatever you think you'd like. I'm not looking to make a killing on this, just make back a few of the shekels that I have into it.
As for pictures, I can take some later, but really it's a complete car with a wrecked front, parts noted in first post above are spoken for, any and all other parts are available. After I take what I need, and if no one wants anything that's left, the car will go for scrap. If someone wants something, post to thread or PM, and I'd be glad to try and peg a price. Or, you can make an offer for whatever you think you'd like. I'm not looking to make a killing on this, just make back a few of the shekels that I have into it.
#6
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Jared, I'll check out the window function again. IIRC, it was a little stiff, though, not sure if that would be more a track or mechanism function. Note the tweeter grills in the cards have a little rust on them. What parts would you want from the manual windows, mechanism or entire mechanism/windows? LMK. Oh, btw, I'll take a pic of the cards when I get home.
#10
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Drivetrain?
As noted, engine and trans is already taken. The diff center section itself is taken. The diff HOUSING (housing only, no gears or differential) is available, as is the driveshaft, drive axles, and ppf. Let me know if you are interested in these items, and I'll see what I can do.
As noted, engine and trans is already taken. The diff center section itself is taken. The diff HOUSING (housing only, no gears or differential) is available, as is the driveshaft, drive axles, and ppf. Let me know if you are interested in these items, and I'll see what I can do.
#11
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Jared, lemme take the door cards off and take the mechanism apart to give you an idea of what the mech will cost to get to you. I should be able to get to it tomorrow night. Sorry for the delay.
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Would you be able to get me a few pictures of one of the doors as it sits so that i can match it up to my door card. I want to see if I will be able to just put a hole in my current panel and be good. I dont care about what it looks like. I am 300lbs over weight for my class and this will drop quite a few pounds and still be streetable. Don't know if it is clear that I would need the handles as well.
Have a great day,
Jared
Have a great day,
Jared
#13
Drivetrain?
As noted, engine and trans is already taken. The diff center section itself is taken. The diff HOUSING (housing only, no gears or differential) is available, as is the driveshaft, drive axles, and ppf. Let me know if you are interested in these items, and I'll see what I can do.
As noted, engine and trans is already taken. The diff center section itself is taken. The diff HOUSING (housing only, no gears or differential) is available, as is the driveshaft, drive axles, and ppf. Let me know if you are interested in these items, and I'll see what I can do.
#14
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Kaboshe, do you ever roll down the Northway into NY state? That would be an easier way.
But, I'll check out shipping and customs and all that next week. I'd have to figure it will be expensive...
Jared:
But, I'll check out shipping and customs and all that next week. I'd have to figure it will be expensive...
Jared:
#15
I'd take the crank position sensor, its bolt and pig tail if you'll sell them. If not that, then the connector from a driver side power door lock. I'm looking to run a trackspeed 12t wheel on my 94. Also the 'pulley boss', but I figure that probably goes with the engine.
"To mount the trigger wheel you need the shorter pulley boss from a '96-'05 Miata. Do not use the longer '94-'95 pulley boss."
"To mount the trigger wheel you need the shorter pulley boss from a '96-'05 Miata. Do not use the longer '94-'95 pulley boss."
#16
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ian, I'll most likely keep the crank position sensor and all related components to implement crank trigger on my car in the near future.
The car is a base model, and doesn't have power door locks.
The car is a base model, and doesn't have power door locks.
#17
Jfornachon - you can just punch a hole in your current door card after swapping in the manual regulator. I did the swap myself. BTW - it will only save you about 2lbs total for both left and right sides. It was a PITA and IMHO, not worth the effort.
That being said, if he doesn't take the regulator, I will. One of mine is stripped. I will also take the window cranks if no one else grabs them (again, stripped).
THANKS
That being said, if he doesn't take the regulator, I will. One of mine is stripped. I will also take the window cranks if no one else grabs them (again, stripped).
THANKS