Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 266305)
hey now my vishnu rail's been in for like 5 yrs.
I have 25 years left. |
Ill probably get one of these too
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What are the benefits of this thing?
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Originally Posted by Mex
(Post 266380)
What are the benefits of this thing?
2. do a fucking search 3. don't listen to saml01 :fawk: |
woot!!
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reading comprehension owns me. Any chance the rail will be finished sooner...I need my shit on the road by the end of the month.
Thanks, and I love you. -hustler |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 266430)
reading comprehension owns me. Any chance the rail will be finished sooner...I need my shit on the road by the end of the month.
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Originally Posted by mkulak
(Post 266465)
Can't promise.. Use a stock rail in the meantime.. (What I am doing)
Post the shit up, I'm inn like flynn. |
Very nice. I anxiously await your post coming on Monday.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 266493)
I'd rather tune the car once.
Post the shit up, I'm inn like flynn. |
refinance now, save a few points, lol
I am seriously thinking about abondoning the fuel rail project and jump on this as well, price is right and requires no effort of me. What to do??????? |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 266579)
Seriously? "Tune" for 12:1 under boost, 13:1 off of it, and tune a bit more carefully when the rail shows up. Don't be "a tool".
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is it possible to get SAE ports instead of NPT?
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You've yet to explain why you can't run the car on the stock rail at 250 hp for a month, then swap rails and tune.
And I'd love to see your input on the other thread about the point of these rails.... |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 266602)
You've yet to explain why you can't run the car on the stock rail at 250 hp for a month, then swap rails and tune.
And I'd love to see your input on the other thread about the point of these rails.... |
This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?
I see two effects 1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune. 2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280. Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself. |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 266622)
This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?
I see two effects 1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune. 2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280. Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself. |
Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor? If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm. Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time. Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped. Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards. |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 266638)
Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor? If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm. Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time. Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped. Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 266593)
I have to at least post 1 300whp dyno to piss people off around town.
Originally Posted by mkulak
(Post 266155)
It is Official - ETD Racing/M-Tuned is ready to offer their Billet Dual Feed fuel rail for the 99-05 BP 1.8 Miata.
We will be ready to start taking orders on Monday, with an expected delivery of 3-4 weeks. The Fuel rail will be similar to popular billet rails, but will be offered at an Introductory price of $99 + 10 shipping! Why buy another rail, when you can have this billet piece for under $100! I will provide you ordering instructions by Monday! |
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