John Patrick Conrad

Hey i have a a 04 MSM that i had got last year and after what started as replacing the water pump belt and front driver side wheel bearing turned into spending the last 3 months and more money than id like to admit, crawling on my back (no lift) restoring the undercarriage and going over just about everything on the car besides engine internals. shes now looking brand. i bought the car with an FM LE, FM DP and exhaust, over the past 3 months i have added 15x8s, LC-2 wideband, perfect tuning gauge, maf delete, larger injectors on the way and of course a MS3PRO PNP from DIYAUTOTUNE.

I have no experience tuning but am sucking up as much info as i can. base timing set, I have the car idling and no longer stalling at stops however i do not want to push it as the base timing table from DIY is looking incredibly aggressive. I looked into this table further by comparing it to that of "TURBOKITTYS" base map for the MSM. Although it is for a MS3X i used tunerstudio with the correct signature to compare it to the basemap of DIY.

The difference is striking. Especially in the injector timing and advanced timing tables. although there are many settings in "turbokittys" basemap that in my current knowledge would deem a much better starting ground.

im curious if anyone has any experience with diyautotunes basemap or that of turbokittys for an msm? and if anyone would take the time to compare these two basemaps inputting their opinions i would really appreciate it. The diyautotune base map just seems so incredibly rudimentary in comparison.

der_vierte

If your car starts/runs fine right now, just export the tables from brains basemap and import them in your tune. AFR target and spark should be enough.
Did the same thing even on my speeduino and the car runs very good.

Then autotune your VE-table to get it somewhat right again. After that, let a good tuner do his job

irodd

iTrader: (4)

Trubokitty MSM map has the Idle Valve min/max duty for NA idle valve (and the Idle cranking Duty and CL Idle Initial values).
Do not import those tables/settings.

Icedawg

^^
What they both say. I imported spark and AFR target tables, then started tuning. (Ended up using the DIY AFR target though, since it is not a turbo yet.) Had to build my own CL initial idle table to match my car's behaviour, to get rid of the engine stall when coming to a stop with the clutch disengaged. Then lots of runs with data logging, smoothing and going again.
Read Aidan's sticky in the Megasquirt for some very useful basics. One key bit of advice was to turn Incoporate AFR on.
Also, the DIY basic tune I received for the 2001 had the fuel system FPR set to vacuum referenced, and ~43 psi. Whereas, from 99 on, these fuel pressure regulators are atmospheric pressure referenced, non-return systems, at ~ 60 psi.
I did not notice those settings until recently, so have tuned to the original DIY settings, and it has worked out for a normally aspirated car. But once you have a turbo, the added psi may make that a bit more of a problem, if it is not set to the actual way the system runs.