Forsaken Cold starts!
Cold Advance... I was thinking you could just un-tick a box and turn it off. I guess not. Just make it all 100%. There is no reason to have advance go to zero after start.
I would try, at 70F, "15" for priming (with existing, stock injectors), and "200" for cranking.
Then, if it starts, but stalls quickly, Add ASE.
If it starts, but runs rough and then smooths out, remove 5% Priming, Cranking, and ASE.
If it does not start, keep adding cranking % until it does.
I would try, at 70F, "15" for priming (with existing, stock injectors), and "200" for cranking.
Then, if it starts, but stalls quickly, Add ASE.
If it starts, but runs rough and then smooths out, remove 5% Priming, Cranking, and ASE.
If it does not start, keep adding cranking % until it does.
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Erat, I also use a lot of priming, but more so at lower temperature. At around 70F, my priming pulse is approximately equal to cranking pulse. At 40F, it is about 2X, IIRC.
This is tripling OP's present level.
This is tripling OP's present level.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
I forgot we were going one step at a time. Carry on.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: kck
I tried it again. Started quicker but not great. A friend compared his tune to mine. Told me to try 0/-2 crank advance. Boom first try no hesitation. Well see how the cars likes that in the morning at it’s coldest. 🤞🏼
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Go from 15 to 17 prime and from 200 to 210 cranking. That pattern of increasing fuel until good start.
Create a smooth curve back to 180 degree setting as you go up at 70 degrees.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: kck
Went out this morning. Tried what I had last and ... nope. Increased the priming and cranking like you said. Bad thing is when I turn the key back it primes it again.. then again and again after every try. Which I feel makes it worse. Even tried flood clear. I didn’t let it start so I can try again in a bit. .. I also just realized that in my thermostor tables I had it set to coolant temp sensor instead of air temp sensor. I will switch it next time but how bad is that?
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From: Louisville, Co
Keep trying setting changes. But I would start thinking about other possibilities other than MS3. You need to check your O2 sensor, IAC valve, MAP sensor, boost leaks (around the manifold) - check your brake booster path, your MAP reference path, your wastegate actuator path - NOT JUST VISUALLY. Pull your spark plugs to check for fouling, check plug gap, etc, etc, etc.
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From: kck
I have been using flood clear but I checked most things from what you said and now something has got me wondering... ever since I went to MS I get this loud humming noise from my IAC valve and wonder if that is part of the problem? What do you think..
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Thread Starter
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From: kck
Keep trying setting changes. But I would start thinking about other possibilities other than MS3. You need to check your O2 sensor, IAC valve, MAP sensor, boost leaks (around the manifold) - check your brake booster path, your MAP reference path, your wastegate actuator path - NOT JUST VISUALLY. Pull your spark plugs to check for fouling, check plug gap, etc, etc, etc.
I am not sure how to check the IAC but checked the rest. Pulled plugs black and wet from fuel. Gap is 35 and they are BKR6e.
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From: kck
I feel like it has to be spark/ignition related. every time I pull the plugs they are wet and black. Backfires on startup too. here is a couple data logs... one of first cold start second of a warmer cold start. Changed crank advance in between. starts better cold with - rather that +.
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