help knock setting
08-25-2021, 08:29 AM
#1
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help knock setting
hello, I wanted to ask you how to set the beat sensor of the ms2 enhanced pnp for miata 99-00
in the settings of tunerstudio there is:
knock control = safe mode and aggressive mode
input type = on / off and analog
knock input pin = spareadc2, spareadc, remote port 3 bit 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7, among these which port do I choose? the knock sensor is OEM.
do I have to cut the white wire of the sensor and connect it to the DB37 port? or should I leave it at the original link?
knock indicated by = low input and high input
pullup / down on input = same as knock, none, pull up, pull down
thank you
Ramon
in the settings of tunerstudio there is:
knock control = safe mode and aggressive mode
input type = on / off and analog
knock input pin = spareadc2, spareadc, remote port 3 bit 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7, among these which port do I choose? the knock sensor is OEM.
do I have to cut the white wire of the sensor and connect it to the DB37 port? or should I leave it at the original link?
knock indicated by = low input and high input
pullup / down on input = same as knock, none, pull up, pull down
thank you
Ramon
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08-25-2021, 10:20 AM
#2
Cpt. Slow
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
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You can click the little blue question mark to read about safe and aggressive mode, that has to do with how it pulls timing and how it adds it back, I would probably use safe mode.
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
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08-26-2021, 06:39 AM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 155
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You can click the little blue question mark to read about safe and aggressive mode, that has to do with how it pulls timing and how it adds it back, I would probably use safe mode.
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
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08-26-2021, 10:03 AM
#5
Cpt. Slow
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 14,206
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You're welcome. Bear in mind I've never used the stock sensor, I've been told it has very low resolution and may not give valuable information even when wired correctly. There's some more information towards the end of this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-105639/page3/
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08-26-2021, 01:02 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 7
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You can click the little blue question mark to read about safe and aggressive mode, that has to do with how it pulls timing and how it adds it back, I would probably use safe mode.
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
input type is analog
knock input is going to be either spare ADC 1 or 2. Try both of them and look at your knock monitor while idling. Should be flashing around 5 or 6 (out of 100), if it is, unplug your knock sensor on at the front of the engine, and it should go to 0. If it does, you have the right input. If you're not seeing any knock input, or it doesn't change when you unplug it, you don't have the right input. There's a chance the MS2E doesn't have the OE knock sensor pinned to the ecu, and it'll have to to go the DB9. the outer shield goes to a sensor ground, inner wire goes to your input. But check with Rev too, make sure you don't need to download and install the firmware for TS, which may enable other options, including one that's already pinned to the ECU.
knock indicated by low/high input is for on/off sensors, which you don't have.
Same for pullup/down.
Once you have your knock sensor working, warm the car up, leave it idling in neutral, start a log, and slowly rev the car to red line. Let it fall back down to idle and stop the log. Open this log, look at RPM and knock. It should be a really rough line that goes up with RPM. Use this to set your knock threshold, should be 5-10% above this zero load run.
After that, if knock goes above this threshold, it'll pull timing according to the rest of your settings, knock counts (how many time it goes above the threshold before pulling timing), ignore above a certain map, rpm, or below a certain RPM. And retard settings, how much it can retard, how long between retarding does it wait before retarding more, and how many degrees it retards each time. Recovery is similar, how long between steps in advance, how big the steps are, and how big of a change in your ignition table before it reverts back to the table.
The above underlined settings are where it gets tricky, since getting this wrong isn't exactly bad, but set it up too aggressively and you're pulling timing for no reason. Set it up too timid, and you're not pulling enough. Same goes for your spark map, you shouldn't be using knock sensing to fix a bad map. Same also goes for the knock threshold, set that too low and you'll be retarding for knock that isn't knock. Set it too high and you could be ignoring knock.
Good luck!
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