:laugh: That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase ;)
However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity? |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668740)
:laugh: That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase ;)
However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity? Why don't you like the S4 or S5? Yeah, I have some idea... intake, exhaust, megasquirt, RE/W housings, massive street port, S5/Renesis rotors should do it. Been following the max street port N/A whp thread on 7club for /years/. :) |
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing. As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are ass compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668742)
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing. As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are ass compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options. Never got back to me. I think the FB is the best 7, honestly. The FC is just too heavy for N/A, and I don't like the feel of a turbo on a rotary. It detracts from the character and feel of the engine (then again, I'm not much of a turbo person...). And yeah, I'm totally in agreement with S6's. That was always my end goal. He said 230whp wasn't even optimized as a setup. Nice. :) |
Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668745)
Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B. I hadn't looked too far into the manifolds, honestly. That or exhausts. The wiring scared me away from the project, and now I have neither part to it... and another turbo miata coming together instead. Still though, is there no one making an aftermarket intake for the 13b? Is it only carburator or hack on stock manifolds? |
Most serious people go for the 13BRE intake for "aftermarket".
I haven't ran into anything that actually is better than the 13BRE intake. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668751)
Most serious people go for the 13BRE intake for "aftermarket".
I haven't ran into anything that actually is better than the 13BRE intake. By the time you sell off the turbo stuff, maybe 1k? Port it, put in Renesis rotors, shorten the intake manifold by 2", make an exhaust, intake, and 230whp. |
You'll have to rebuild that. I will lay you large amounts of money you'll have to rebuild that, even.
|
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668754)
You'll have to rebuild that. I will lay you large amounts of money you'll have to rebuild that, even.
|
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 668755)
Well yes, it would be difficult to do the porting and renesis rotors without the rebuilding part of that...
Which is precisely where my rotary swap went overbudget. ;P |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668756)
No. As in replacing everything internally.
Which is precisely where my rotary swap went overbudget. ;P Guess it's not bad, 4k is pretty typical engine rebuild costs, and starting out with an FC+Miata would get a car running for a long time to save up money, and could optimize ecu/intake/exhaust while doing so. That was my plan: Stage 1: Get the car running with an FC engine, make it reliable Stage 2: Optimize everything that can carry over to the next engine. Stage 3: Pop in super engine Coolant, easy. Motor mounts, easy. V8Roadster subframe, easy. Exhaust worried me, but I could wrap my head around it. Looked at the wiring harness... thought about wiring... sold the FC. -.- |
Hah.
Wiring isn't that bad, it's just time consuming. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668765)
Hah.
Wiring isn't that bad, it's just time consuming. I can do wiring just fine, I even built the harness up on my motorcycle pretty much from scratch, but if there's a /problem/ with wiring, I just have no idea what to do, honestly. |
That's actually pretty impressive.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668769)
That's actually pretty impressive.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring. Still going ahead on your own swap? |
My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...
Damage from a coolant leak. :facepalm: Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage. DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668772)
My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...
Damage from a coolant leak. :facepalm: Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage. DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system. I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple. |
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 668773)
Well there goes my plan to ask for your wiring harness remaking knowledge. -.-
I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple. You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses. Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing. |
Originally Posted by blaen99
(Post 668774)
Frankly, I think you are overthinking it.
You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses. Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing. So to swap over the engine harness, I'd need to splice in coils, crank/e-shaft position sensor, oil pressure, coolant temp, throttle position, tach... Is that it? That makes it sound almost doable. o.o; |
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