turbo is in
#2
Either throw the air filter away and get a real one - Or, make damn sure that you "Loctite" the little nuts and bolts on it when you install it. There has been more than one person that has destroyed their turbo quickly from not securing the nut and bolt hardware properly on the "cheap" filter system that comes with the kit......
#4
Either throw the air filter away and get a real one - Or, make damn sure that you "Loctite" the little nuts and bolts on it when you install it. There has been more than one person that has destroyed their turbo quickly from not securing the nut and bolt hardware properly on the "cheap" filter system that comes with the kit......
#7
BOLTS --- Bad -- Because they are not hardened and are soft (standard)
#8
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yea i read all the things to do before install i just wanted to know about the bolts thing wont be installing it soon..i had a post about my accident https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed-turbo-kits-3/nooooo-another-miata-off-map-12314/
my new miata pic is in there but there was alot of work to do on it..well heres an update iv transfer just about everything on it besides the motor so my motor not even in my miata yet so i still have to put it in there and break it in with 91 octane and make sure everyhitn still working..but i cant wait till the turbo install
my new miata pic is in there but there was alot of work to do on it..well heres an update iv transfer just about everything on it besides the motor so my motor not even in my miata yet so i still have to put it in there and break it in with 91 octane and make sure everyhitn still working..but i cant wait till the turbo install
#9
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Lola, you ******. Trying to confuse the newb. He's not gonna find any M8 or M10 hardware in grade 8, because grade 8 is an SAE designation.
What he wants is "Class 10.9" which is a roughly equivilant spec that applies to metric hardware.
And definately good advice on the Copper Anti-Seize compount. I used it liberally when I assembled my current system a little over a year ago- this past weekend I changed the engine mounts, and to do so I decided to remove the downpipe from the turbo, and the manifold from the head. Every fastener came off easily. Anyone who is assembling a turbocharger system needs to purchase a can of this product or this product, avaliable at fine auto parts stores anywhere. Apply it to the manifold studs, the turbo bolts, the downpipe bolts, the catalytic converter bolts, your EGT sensor, pretty much anything near the exhaust stream that you might ever want to remove in the future.
Also, about the manifold cuts. When I did mine, I used a common hacksaw blade. Upon removing the manifold last weekend I found that the slices I'd made between #1 and #2, and between #3 and #4 looked fine, but between #2 and #3 the gap had closed completely.
What he wants is "Class 10.9" which is a roughly equivilant spec that applies to metric hardware.
And definately good advice on the Copper Anti-Seize compount. I used it liberally when I assembled my current system a little over a year ago- this past weekend I changed the engine mounts, and to do so I decided to remove the downpipe from the turbo, and the manifold from the head. Every fastener came off easily. Anyone who is assembling a turbocharger system needs to purchase a can of this product or this product, avaliable at fine auto parts stores anywhere. Apply it to the manifold studs, the turbo bolts, the downpipe bolts, the catalytic converter bolts, your EGT sensor, pretty much anything near the exhaust stream that you might ever want to remove in the future.
Also, about the manifold cuts. When I did mine, I used a common hacksaw blade. Upon removing the manifold last weekend I found that the slices I'd made between #1 and #2, and between #3 and #4 looked fine, but between #2 and #3 the gap had closed completely.
#10
Yo Joe ---
I must be getting too old! I'll need to go see what I put in there now. It's been some time since I've even played with my turbo.
Here's a list for METRICS:
http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html
I must be getting too old! I'll need to go see what I put in there now. It's been some time since I've even played with my turbo.
Here's a list for METRICS:
http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html
#12
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This is a Greddy manifold and Mitsu TD04H-15G turbo. Therefore, the bolts in question (those that hold the turbo to the manifold, and the downpipe to the turbo) are M8x1.25 size. Short of drilling and re-tapping, this cannot change.
The classifications "Grade 5" and "Grade 8" are generally applied only to SAE fasteners- those sized by inches ø and threads per inch.
The classifications "Class 8.8" and "Class 10.9" are generally applied only to metric fasteners- those sized by mm ø and mm per thread.
While it would be tecnhically possible to classify a metric fastener as Grade 8, or an SAE fastener as Class 10.9, in practice this is not generally done. Doesn't matter if you're in Milwaukee, Taipei, or 19'th century London. Thus, since the OP is going to be shopping for metric-sized bolts, he will most likely be dealing with a "Class 10.9" fastener, not a "Grade 8".
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thanks everyone for your help ....guam is a us territory so we have pretty much everything the the mainland does..besides turbo miatas ..the non factory ones ....i will be the first
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