200whp from Greddy kit? what would i need?
 

I'm getting a Greddy kit soon as payment for doing some website work. I like the fact that it's CARB legal. But.. i don't like the fact that it's only 150hp. I would like to make 200hp to the wheels.

But.. i'm a noob, and this is all just me asking stupid questions and learning from you guys. So.. tell me if this is what i need to make 200hp.

1. Greddy kit
2. Intercooler + piping
3. 1.8 injectors
4. AEM FIC + harness. I plan on using the AEM instead of megasquirt cuz this will be just a daily driver with no track plans. I think in my situation, a MS would be overkill.

What else would i need? and how much psi should i be pushing to get 200hp?

This could easily be found using a simple search.
Bigger injectors, better engine management, and turning up the boost.

Its not worth it with a greddy kit. Just use it at its usual power level and then get a better kit later.

With a '90-'93 car, you're both lucky and cursed.

On the one hand, you've probably already joined the Test Only Station club. On the other, you can get away with an awful lot.

When I lived in San Diego, I ran a Megasquirt ECU, big injectors, water injection, an intercooler, and other such illegal things. Fortunately, the techs just didn't seem to give a shit so long as the magic EO sticker was there.

Honestly, the Greddy kit isn't all that bad. I mean, the air filter is shit, and so is the intake piping, and the oil lines, and the FPR... In fact, pretty much everything except for the turbo itself is crap. But it's capable of over 200 WHP...

... so long as you throw out everything but the manifold and the turbo.

... and the sticker. :D

lol.. you mean keep the sticker

If you replace everything you can't legally keep the sticker. But most likely no one will care if you do:)

You will like it so much better than stock!!!!!!!

Forget horsepower numbers. It will scream.......You will like the kit. Ya there are better out there . AND THEY COST $$$$$

If you where buying new. And didn't care how much you spent. That is different.

But turbo, for some of your time and effort.

SWEET DEAL!!!!!

Find out what goes with the kit.? I/C, injectors ?????ETC? Or if it is just basic.

We'll help you out. You will love it.

This forum was built on getting power for cheap! Way to GO!

and banning people who post this crap.

The items listed in my signature line will get you over 200HP, but a person would be foolish to go the band aid rout these days. These are the parts I would suggest to attain your goal.
1. Another vehicle to drive, or enough money in the bank to replace the motor
2. WB O2 ( utilize this to prevent the need of item #1)
3. Ditch the cross over pipe, and install a front mounted intercooler.
4. Throw away the greddy down pipe, and replace it with either a BEGI down pipe, a Tony down pipe, or fabricate your own down pipe.
5. Free flowing exhaust, 2.5”- 3”
6. Megasquirt, either PNP or home built.
7. 460cc RX7 injectors.
8. Water Injection. Not mandatory, but I am confident that WI is the only thing keeping my internals inside the block.

all a greddy kit needs to hit 200rwph is:

a new downpipe
a intercooler setup
removal of the FMU with a EMS unit
440-550cc injectors
2.5-3" exhuast
12psi

Wisdom from the DARKSIDE!

You also have to have a WBO2, and know how to use it, or you will blow up everything.
AEM and LC-1 are pretty good.

GET THE FUCK OUT


seriously

would AEM FIC be ok?
and which 440-550cc injectors would you recommend?

http://i35.tinypic.com/2wn7mde.gif
never post again

Just make sure they're high impedance. RX7 stuff fits the bill. Read the FAQ.

:eek4: What kind of monster are you in real life. What a creeper.

...

dude, did someone drop you on your head when you were a baby?

About 5'9 and 190LBS of wrath when needed.

I am at a loss for words...

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHA

hes just that happy go-lucky sorta guy that everyone likes to pick on

I haven't been here in a while. And forgot to change my debit source.
Pm'ed to delete Bean1000 since issue is resolved.


To the guys that have been here for awhile thanks for the appropriate welcome.

To the newbs. IF you don't have TURBO :fawk: SHUT UP!
AND YES I KNOW I CAN'T SPELL. If I'm in your face you won't worry about my spelling anyway!.

Now, back to topic

I'm not an expert but I have Turbo'ed 3 miatas, SC one. And working on my 4th. With a T3.

IF you have money "by all means" get a different kit.

IF you can BS your way into a kit, like this guy. You would be a TARD! not to put it on the car.

UNless you are a Pussy that doesn't like boost.

The greddy has flaws that we all know about. But the difference in power for a budget, is not worth the $$$$.

For a $450-$750 kit used. You can't beat it. You spend a quick small amount and have boost until you save for the kit you want.
Or you can go the slow painful route of buying piece by piece without turbo and GET SICK OF IT AND SELL THE CAR.

And as far as the downpipe issue, take the cat out. Put it back in for emissions.

When you save up enough $$$$ to go commando. Sell the greddy and get the one you want.

But atleast you have boost till you buy or piece together the kit you want.
Or if you just drive back and forth to work, it may be all the power you need. 9lbs of boost makes a miata move pretty good.

By the way "It sucks to be the Knewb"

Im looking for 200 whp too

I need to crank up the boost on my Greddy

Well I would say ditch the vortech, get some injectors and MS and a wide band, and you should be good to go. There are many people on here making more than 200whp with the Greddy turbo, I was one of them but I just sold mine and am cooking something else up. I just cant stand having parts on my car that I didn't make.

Nice, Thanks for the info.

I found mine at the library, just fyi

My sig will get you around 240-250 with aroun. 18 deg at 15psi

Count me in the "Greddy over 200hp club" too. If I had it to do all over again I'd have taken a different path, but the Greddy is a good learning experience since you end up replacing everything anyway.

i enjoy the fact that my greddy turbo hasn't shit itself, probably would have gone though a couple fancy BB GT turbos by now. 200whp is easy to get

Honestly we are making more whp with our greddy than 90% of the people here. I don't know why people talk so badly about the greddy kit.
If you buy a greddy mani, greddy turbo, a 2 1/2 dp, new hardware and oil lines and IC you could have a pretty cheap and good set up

I got rid of my Greddy because I wanted more power, I wanted to fab up a turbo manifold for a miata and I had a bigger turbo sitting around. So that coupled with the fact that a friend wanted my Greddy all made to much sense to ignore the fact that it was time to build a new set up. Anyways enjoy!

Not only is it a decent turbo attached to a nearly worthless kit which you can find cheap every other week...but that turbo with some decent management, an IC, and a real downpipe and exhaust is the perfect power level.

I'm sitting at a little over 200whp now...and every time I think about turning it up a little I think of everything else I'd need to replace. I can envision tranny exploding, rods bending, the works. 200-225 is a real comfortable power level.

Get the kit, upgrade it, be happy.

Rods bending always crossed my mind but with a 1.6 I'll just buy a used motor for $100 and call it a day

That's what I love about the 1.6L.

Every time I think about a motor swap I know I'll get carried away with it. I'll start with a refresh...then start porting/polishing...and end up forged.

Water injection is just easier than the prospects of another garage motor swap (did one last Nov).

Don't forget you'll eventually blow up your 1.6 differential at that power level. My VLSD blew up after only 2 autocross events.

Problem is that a lot of n00bs get the Greddy new (like my dumbass did) and then end up paying $1300 for, once everything's been replaced, a journal-bearing turbo and a log manifold. So basically it's ok as a setup but sucks as a kit, IMHO.

shhhh I made the same mistake 4 years ago.

I wouldn't call it a mistake more of a good learning experience.

Exactly what I thought when I had my 1.6 FM2.

Necropost...


Please dont bring back threads unless you have something imperative to add.

brain can build you an ms1 for about the same price as an FIC and you can run that parallel. get the greddy kit rx8 420cc injectors and brain built ms1. for that money, you really can't beat the results.

Can someone please answer me a question? What the fuck is it about this thread that draws newb necroposters to it like moths to a lightbulb?

Its the Greddy. The first word any newb learns when they search for a cheap turbo.

did someone say newb and turbo. you have my attn. you guys hear about that greddy kit?

I've been thinking about this for a while.

I have 1, 2, and 5, but I'm being a wuss about doing the Megasquirt because the car runs well enough at 5psi that I haven't really wanted more power.

Honestly, I think what I mostly want is quicker spool up and I don't think turning up the boost will get me that. I'd have to go to a different turbo.

Edit: Oops, didn't see the date on this one.

5 psi won't even spin the tires through first. Just get a MS and be done with it. It's what I need to do as well.

As much as i wish this thread would die and go to hell already...

1. You don't know how well your car can run until you drive it with a well sorted MS. Even at 5psi, the difference would be huge compared to your bandaids.

2. Quicker spool....than a 15g...Seriously?

The bigger exhaust would net quicker spool and a power bump...

Well, if you drop the clutch at around 3000rpms in my car it will spin the tires, but then again I probably need to get new tires.

The well sorted part is what I need to work out. Getting the stuff and hooking it up isn't an issue. I'd just need help/pay someone to tune it.

I was under the impression that the newer turbos have faster spool up. My ignorance is showing. Mine spools up fairly quickly, gets into boost around 3000rpms with the Tony downpipe and larger exhaust.

There are few connect-I-cut guys that could help you tune, it's really not that difficult. Just look at logs on here and find the parameters you want and see what works best. It's all pretty well documented on this site.

8 psi on bandaids is scaring the shit out of me. I can't wait to get this garbage off my car before my motor pops.

These guys were mentioned to me as having experience tuning Megasquirt and they are right down the road from me.

http://www.eplabs.net/

I'm doing okay with the bandaids because I'm only at 5psi max. I've been running this setup for a few years and done dozens of autocrosses with it.

I'm thinking about the MS, but between the computer itself and the wideband and the tuning I'm figuring I'll drop at least $1000. I've already got some 550cc injectors.

Trust me, when you burn through 2nd gear in boost, it will be worth it.

Turning the boost up might help spool a bit by keeping the waste gate closed longer. You'll hit higher boost but 5 psi will come a little earlier. I was able to make 7.5psi by 3k with the stock DP. I was also running 14* base timing and using the most aggressive bipes settings.

Fixed that for you.

I'm wary of turning up the boost with my setup. I'm running 1.8 injectors and the stock greddy AFPR with the Bipes and the O2 clamp. I have the BEGI AFPR sitting in a box, but since the Greddy has continued working okay I haven't bothered to swap it out.

My other issue is that the clutch is a stock 1.6 clutch which is holding okay so far at 5psi, but I'm pretty sure it will let go when I start making more power. So, more dough for that. Though a friend has a lift so I could swap that myself. I do have the Torsen rear though.

Street tires should be shitty. Road surface extremely important for mad spinnage. I can spin 2nd on a glazy road at 8 psi. Hooking up is overrated.

Torsen is win. Clutch dies at 8 psi, not too hard to swap especially if you have a lift, but does cost $$$. I think 12psi on Greddy should be ~200whp, that's not too bad.

If you have a wideband you can check to see if the fueling is ok at 7psi. Mine wasn't too bad, it had a really rich spot ~4k if I remember correctly.

The clutch (similar to stock) I had would slip if I drove it hard at 130ft-lbs. Normal driving it was fine though.

Yeah, at the moment I'm running the narrow band and I'm running a bit on the rich side to be safe. I was actually going to go to a dyno day next month to get some idea of where the fueling is on the car.

If I was going to get the wideband I'd probably just spring for everything and get Megasquirt going on the car.

I'm running the Stripes IC setup on the thing so once I get fueling taken care of I should be able to run 10psi or more.

Bad answer.

Better answer.

Get a wideband in your car ASAP, or confirm your fueling on a dyno and then don't touch anything. "rich" on a narrowband means you're somewhere between 9.0:1 and 14.0:1. So you could have flawless AFRs, or you could be washing your cylinder walls down, or you could be dangerously lean.

My other concern would be how well the manifold will hold up when I start turning up the boost. It's got the relief cuts in it, but ehhh.