Can someone please answer me a question? What the fuck is it about this thread that draws newb necroposters to it like moths to a lightbulb?

Its the Greddy. The first word any newb learns when they search for a cheap turbo.

did someone say newb and turbo. you have my attn. you guys hear about that greddy kit?

I've been thinking about this for a while.

I have 1, 2, and 5, but I'm being a wuss about doing the Megasquirt because the car runs well enough at 5psi that I haven't really wanted more power.

Honestly, I think what I mostly want is quicker spool up and I don't think turning up the boost will get me that. I'd have to go to a different turbo.

Edit: Oops, didn't see the date on this one.

5 psi won't even spin the tires through first. Just get a MS and be done with it. It's what I need to do as well.

As much as i wish this thread would die and go to hell already...

1. You don't know how well your car can run until you drive it with a well sorted MS. Even at 5psi, the difference would be huge compared to your bandaids.

2. Quicker spool....than a 15g...Seriously?

The bigger exhaust would net quicker spool and a power bump...

Well, if you drop the clutch at around 3000rpms in my car it will spin the tires, but then again I probably need to get new tires.

The well sorted part is what I need to work out. Getting the stuff and hooking it up isn't an issue. I'd just need help/pay someone to tune it.

I was under the impression that the newer turbos have faster spool up. My ignorance is showing. Mine spools up fairly quickly, gets into boost around 3000rpms with the Tony downpipe and larger exhaust.

There are few connect-I-cut guys that could help you tune, it's really not that difficult. Just look at logs on here and find the parameters you want and see what works best. It's all pretty well documented on this site.

8 psi on bandaids is scaring the shit out of me. I can't wait to get this garbage off my car before my motor pops.

These guys were mentioned to me as having experience tuning Megasquirt and they are right down the road from me.

http://www.eplabs.net/

I'm doing okay with the bandaids because I'm only at 5psi max. I've been running this setup for a few years and done dozens of autocrosses with it.

I'm thinking about the MS, but between the computer itself and the wideband and the tuning I'm figuring I'll drop at least $1000. I've already got some 550cc injectors.

Trust me, when you burn through 2nd gear in boost, it will be worth it.

Turning the boost up might help spool a bit by keeping the waste gate closed longer. You'll hit higher boost but 5 psi will come a little earlier. I was able to make 7.5psi by 3k with the stock DP. I was also running 14* base timing and using the most aggressive bipes settings.

Fixed that for you.

I'm wary of turning up the boost with my setup. I'm running 1.8 injectors and the stock greddy AFPR with the Bipes and the O2 clamp. I have the BEGI AFPR sitting in a box, but since the Greddy has continued working okay I haven't bothered to swap it out.

My other issue is that the clutch is a stock 1.6 clutch which is holding okay so far at 5psi, but I'm pretty sure it will let go when I start making more power. So, more dough for that. Though a friend has a lift so I could swap that myself. I do have the Torsen rear though.

Street tires should be shitty. Road surface extremely important for mad spinnage. I can spin 2nd on a glazy road at 8 psi. Hooking up is overrated.

Torsen is win. Clutch dies at 8 psi, not too hard to swap especially if you have a lift, but does cost $$$. I think 12psi on Greddy should be ~200whp, that's not too bad.

If you have a wideband you can check to see if the fueling is ok at 7psi. Mine wasn't too bad, it had a really rich spot ~4k if I remember correctly.

The clutch (similar to stock) I had would slip if I drove it hard at 130ft-lbs. Normal driving it was fine though.

Yeah, at the moment I'm running the narrow band and I'm running a bit on the rich side to be safe. I was actually going to go to a dyno day next month to get some idea of where the fueling is on the car.

If I was going to get the wideband I'd probably just spring for everything and get Megasquirt going on the car.

I'm running the Stripes IC setup on the thing so once I get fueling taken care of I should be able to run 10psi or more.

Bad answer.

Better answer.

Get a wideband in your car ASAP, or confirm your fueling on a dyno and then don't touch anything. "rich" on a narrowband means you're somewhere between 9.0:1 and 14.0:1. So you could have flawless AFRs, or you could be washing your cylinder walls down, or you could be dangerously lean.

My other concern would be how well the manifold will hold up when I start turning up the boost. It's got the relief cuts in it, but ehhh.