90 Miata w/Greddy Kit I just Picked Up - Some Opinions Please
 

Hey guys. I just picked this car up this week and since have been doing a bit of research on the setup (wrong order, I know) and came across this site. I was wondering what you guys thought of it, and if you saw any glaring ommissions in the previous owner's modification path. I haven't really decided if I'm going to keep the car yet, but if I do I want to make sure everything is good to go and done right.

Thanks in advance...


Previous Owner's Add:

1990 Mazda Miata
-91k Original Miles
-Clean title
-Red on Gray Black

Mods
ENGINE
-Greddy Turbo Kit 8 psi
-Custom Front Mount Intercooler
-Water Spray on Intercooler
-Custom sidepipe exhaust 2" no cat
-New Timing belt/water pump/head gasket at 75k miles.
DRIVETRAIN
-1.8 Liter Differential Swap (Bigger Better) We blew the 1.6 liter diff.
-Act Stage II Clutch
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-MSD Boost Retard Control
-Vortech FMU
-Walbro 255 hi- flow fuel pump
SUSPENSION
-Tokico illumina(5 way adjustable) struts&springs
-Racing beat swaybars front and rear
-Flyin Miata rear brace
-Flyin Miata Strut Bar
INTERIOR
-Harddog hardcore hardtop roll bar
-Pioneer Head Unit CD
-Pioneer Door Speakers
-Autometer Boost Gauge (mounted in center consol)
-Autometer AIR/Fuel Gauge (same spot as boost)
-Apexi Turbo Timer w/Air Fuel Guage
EXTERIOR
-OEM Hardtop
-Convertable Top Removed but included
-Mazda Speed Front Lip
-All Factory lights put back in. (had F'd up tails and clears all around. poop)
-Foglights
-15x7 Rota GT3s street (14 inch rims with Azenis for track)
BRAKES
-Axxis ultimate pads (2k ago)
-New Rotors (2k ago)

Some Pics

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/aaaaa5hn.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...tas/aaa0lx.jpg

Replacing some of the couplers...flapper door unit out at time of pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/IMG_1246.jpg

Is that out here in Hawaii, it looks like one I just saw on Pearl Harbor today.

Other than some heat shielding around the brake components and misc. hoses, looks good! Reminds me of my car in the front a lil.

I'm sure someone with more experience than me will chime in about some other parts of the setup.

it's a beaut!

What color are you injectors?

Pull the Turbo Timer.

Upgrade the exhaust!

Get it on a dyno and see where you're at.

love the wheels.

I'm not say that because i have them ;-)

i say check for leaks and try to get an A/F with a WB02 and see how the car is

-All Factory lights put back in. (had F'd up tails and clears all around. poop)
I like you already.

It looks like a good setup, very clean and traditional Greddy upgrades. There is nothing amiss about any of it, in fact, you'll find just about everybody with a Greddy who decides to upgrade follows right along with what's been done to your car. Unless you're looking for more power right now, I'd change nothing except what Brain said... and I'd love to see how those fog lights are mounted.

Be sure to create a vbGarage with all your mods and some pics. You do know about the microsoft image resizer, right? If you don't: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...63&postcount=5

Your left side headlight has been bent slightly down about 1/4" (leaving a noticeable gap between the trailing edge and the hood) by someone leaning on it. Easy fix... Pop the hood and very gently lift up on it to even it out with the hood.

Brain is right, you need to see some dyno-graphs and A/F ratios for your piece of mind. Did the PO tell you he'd had it Dyno'd. If not, spend the $150 or so for a couple runs and some tuning. Get in touch with these guys to recommend you a place: http://www.miataclubofhawaii.com/

The only thing to make you aware of is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.... I could be a little off (not a Greddy expert), but at 8psi, I think that setup should run about 180rwhp if properly tuned. I think you could safely run about 10psi like you are now.

Replace the plugs, wires and fuel filter.
Get some T bolt clamps.
Throw the air/ fuel gauge in the garbage and replace with a wideband.
Get an exhaust and downpipe that are at least 2.5" but go for full 3" if you can.
Add some water/methanol injection.

pull the turbo timer why dont those help like make your turbo live longer?

Lots of different opinions on turbo timers. I think if you aren't boosting up your driveway or in parking lots right before you park and you use a synthetic oil they probably aren't a must have.

it's already been upgraded dude!!!

I had a 10min conversation with corky about them one day. Basically if you arent boosting, the turbo needs little oil to spin, and cooling it down for 20sec after you turn off your car isn't going to do anything. Stop boosting a few seconds before you stop the car and shut it off.

I like the car alot, thats what i want to build my next one to look like. If you sell it let me know.

DAMN, somehow I misread and thought CLUTCH instead of DIF.

There are millions of stock turbo'd vehicles out there that go many hundreds of thousands of miles without turbo-timers. My opinion, they're just not safe. When you walk away from your car with the engine still running it must be in neutral. How much faith do you put in your parking brake?

Now, after 1/2 hour of roasting it up out on the track, yah, I might let it sit for a minute before shutting it off if I didn't think the cooldown laps were enough... but I wouldn't get out until it was shut off... and what Brain said.

Just dont use your parking brake then. You'll glue the rear pads on the rotors.

Since sam got picky, I will too... Looks like you have a bit of a bottleneck between your turbo and i/c caused by the greddy "s" pipe. Check out a few engine pics in vbgarage to see a better route. You'll get more power with same or less boost.

As others have said, see what color your injectors are. If they are blue, then they are the stockers and you should change them out. I couldn't get 8 safely out of my stockers. Heat wrap your dipstick tube, brake master, clutch master, and other sensitive bits around the turbo.

Get a wb o2 in there or take it to a dyno asap. You may have some fuel issues. I'm guessing with the walbro 255 and vortech (assuming the 12:1 disk is still installed) you're running rich under vac, and probably real lean over 5 or 6 psi. It might be in your best interest to bring it down to 6 psi until you get it on the dyno. Oh, where's the MSD hiding? Don't see it in the pics.
</picky>

She's real good looking. Very clean. Congrats.

Wow guys, thanks for all the thoughts and advice.

I'll check on the injectors when I get back in town. I'll also inquire with the pre-previous owner who actually did all the mods about the vortech.

The MSD is hiding down by the passenger side shock tower. Fits there rather nicely actually, although it doesn't seem to actually be fastened to anything...yet.

As for the IC plumbing, I'm not happy with it at all. I made it a little better than it was when I picked it up, but I've actually already downloaded a bunch of pics from this forum even before the suggestion.

Thanks again for the advice. A little confused though, samnavy says the car should be fine at 8, and even 10psi (assuming everything is functioning correctly) and ben is advising a bit more caution. Are you assuming somethings been missed in the buildup of this car ben, or are you just advising that I should do an in-depth dive into where the car actually is before being comfortable with it?

I like to do things correctly, so I tend to err on the side of caution myself.

Will post more pics when I get back in town as well. The car photographs well. It's a bit rougher in person.

you'd be fine at the 15psi mark given the correct fuel mixture.

I asked about the color of the injectors cuase I wanted to make sure they weren't stock 203cc ones. Then we gotta figure out what ratio FMU disc you are using. If you boosting 8 psi on a 12:1 you're most likely maxing out your fuel pump. So you might be rich at idle at and lean at WOT. Exactly why I suggested a trip to the dyno.

Figured that's what you meant, just wanted to clarify.

Modify the intercooler sprayer to make it a water/methanol injection system. Spraying water on the intercooler isn't nearly as effective.

Somebody smarter than me should also post the limits of the MSD box... how much it will pull based on what parameters just for info.

Edit... never mind, I found it:
The MSD unit retards the timing 3° per pound of boost pressure with no more that 6° of retard being allowed. When no boost pressure is present, the ignition runs at the factory timing. These settings are fixed and cannot be adjusted. With that said, you can still run your Miata advanced to 14° of timing and when it boost it will retard back to a safe 8°. If knock is still present then set your back back a little. It's a little basic but it gets the job done.

That doesn't make any sense, that means at 2psi of boost it's already pulling the most timing it can. It sounds kind of fishy I thought it was more like 1:1 but I'm not positive. Where'd you get that info?

No it doesn't start pulling untill 4psi. The Bipes ACU was originally a mod for this unit to allow for more timing and adjustabitily controls. He ended up just making a unit to replace it all together.

So, the Bipes ACU is the way to go from what I've been reading?

I wouldn't bother ripping it jsut to replace it with a Bipes. it works and you can still advance your timing to 14° and be at 8° at 6psi.

Sounds like you're really on top of it. Once you get your i/c piping improved, you'll flow so muh better than you will make the same amount of power at less boost.

If you have the blue injectors, I would adjust the boost controller to 5 or 6 psi until you get to the dyno. The walbro 255 doesn't flow well at higher pressures, even if it is the designated hp model. It might still be borderline at 8 psi with the tan colored 1.8 injectors and the 255. I can't get 8 psi out of my stock 1.6 injectors and my fuel pump flows at high pressures much better than yours. You may also want to open up the vortec fpr and measure the disk size, which will let you know what your rise is. Or get a fuel pressure gauge on there to see what that 255 does to your idle pressure.

I'm also running the msd sebring unit. It's fine, and you could always add an rpm trigger to it for almost no cost (I haven't). The bipes is better because it's adjustable and dynamic, but if you're going to replace it, I'd go ahead step up to a more capable piggyback such as emanage, which will allow you to run bigger injectors and really dial in your fueling and timing.

What's funny is my car looks ok in person and like hot ass in photos. Weird eh?

Give a look at the crank on it and see if ya got the shakes, like mine woot!:bigtu:

Thanks Ben. Same as this car, much nicer in pics :)

Talked to the previous owner. It's got the stock injectors, but he wasn't sure about the disc size in the vortec.

So, from what you guys are saying, I should definitely bring it back down to 6psi right?

So, what do I need to upgrade to run 8psi, or even 10?

Looked at the crank pulley, seems good. Apparently, the pre-previous owner pulled the pulley off when he did the greddy kit. It was fine, and then he reinstalled with a new key and loctite.

Man, can't wait to get home and actually drive this car again...haven't driven it since the test drive.

diddnt read anything but it looks......:bigtu:

Get RID of that shock tower brace.

wire that AC fan to the Rad fan so they both go on... super cooling for the cost of 20 minutes of your time two connectors and some solider

Agreed, the brace will stiffen up the front end to the point that you'll push like a big dog. On the street it'll feel a little tighter and you'll think you've got more control... but it'll actually lower the handling limits.

I have yet to see a skidpad comparison of with or without a brace, but it was worth a full second to me on a 50sec autocross course.

why? We have coilovers and the brace barely does anything. Mainly just helps with cowl shake.

Stock injectors limit your power levels.

If you have the original disc in the vortech you are trying to push 140psi of fuel into the rail. ([12 x 8] + 48). Something the pump cannot do.

Depending on the the pump, your maxing out at 120psi (Hp) or 80psi (Standard).

At 80psi those injectors are good for about 155BHP or 130rwhp (4-5psi).

At 120psi those injectors are good for about 190BHP or 160rwhp (5-6psi).

A 8psi GReddied miata should be putting down around 180rwhp. Chances are you are running lean past 5.5k. Not to mention adding a lot of fuel pressure in the rail. Most suggest no more than 100psi.

That being said, 240cc injectors (1.8L) are good for around 210BHP or 175rwhp with 110psi in the rail. You can acheive 110psi with the vortech with 8psi of boost by use of a 8:1 ratio disc. ([8 x 8] + 48). Closer in lines to where you power levels should be.

The best way to figure out what's going on is a trip to the dyno with a wideband hooked up. Or running one yourself (worth the $200 in gold).

At least throwing a fuel pressure guage on there and reading the levels in boost gives you a better understanding of how much fuel you are providing and limited to.

Listen for ping in boost too...that's the engine killer.

Water methanol injection and some1.8 injectors will put you at 10+ psi easily, you could even relax the settings on the msd as well and run more timing there to make some real power. with WI 200 whp is possible on th e1.6's it helps effeciency that much get in on the group buy or do some reseaerch and find a product you like. the simple ones are quite effective though. nice car man. :)

Thanks again for the info. I'll have to follow up more when I get back home. Was considering getting a wideband for the RX-7 anyway so now might be the time to pick it up.

The msd sebring timing controller is not adjustable in anyway. Possibly you could restrict the signal tube to delay pulling timing, but there is no adjustment possible. That's why the bipes is superior.

So where do I get 1.8l injectors? Sounds like I should throw those in if nothing else. What about different discs for the vortec?

ebay classifieds if i do well with my 430's i might sell my set

buy the LM-1 and keep it portable to switch between the two.

100 bucks buy it now price for 1.8L injectors on ebay? That too much?

yes! $50 max.

You guys find them on ebay or are there other sources?

When I get mine back from Newbsauce you can buy them from me.

Is that something that is happening soon?

yes, he just picked up some 305s and is giving them back to me.

cool. let me know when you get them.

I need to know how much you guys think this car is worth if I tried to sell it. Not saying I am, but I know what I paid, and I want to know what it's worth to know where I ended up on the deal.

Braineak - found your faq (right under my nose obviously), great resource!

what you'd pay? to me it seems nicely done and nothing out of lines.

Well, basically I'm considering all my options with the cars I have at the moment and want to know what the going value for a miata set up like this. I picked it up on a local import forum.

Basically, I want to know what I could reasonably get for it on ebay or autotrader or here.

I want to keep it and most likely will, just covering all my bases in case I can't sell my Evo.

I need to find a driver side mirror for it too...stupid thing broke...

What year Escort injectors work?

Alright, got another legitamate question. I want to bring the boost back down to 5-6 psi. There is no boost controller, which way do I adjust the wastegate rod? Longer or shorter? I'm guessing shorter?

Thanks again guys, got the recal discs coming in and am still looking for some 1.8L injectors.

Make the overall rod longer to reduce boost with the wastegate rod. Loosen the nut and turn the end counterclockwise. Keep trying the rod on the pin until it just holds snugly pulling the wastegate closed.

Thanks

gosh darn!!! thats a nice miat!
PICS OF SIDEPIPES PLEZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I'm an idiot. I had some vicegrips on the part of the actuator rod that goes over the wastegate are and was trying to loosen the locknut. Felt it start to turn, and it felt right but it was the whole rod because the vicegrips were slipping. I only turned it about a half turn or so, so I hope it's ok. Had to meet up with the gf for dinner though so I didn't get a chance to check.

Best way to check other than running it on the car? One of the mity-vac pump/vac combos?

What do the wastegate actuators cost if I did waste it....

Sidepipe is just a cobbled up thing. I'll grab a pick though.

turning the rod in the wastegate a little isn't going to damage it. just run compressed air into it and see if the rod still opens. otherwise see if you boost still gets held, if it skyrockets, then it's not working.

Thanks once again for the words of wisdom.

...and one more so I can post a WTB in the marketplace section for 1.8L injectors.

ill trade you for the evo ;)