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Old 12-05-2009, 10:55 PM   #1
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Default Begi Greddy DP ?

Does anybody out there have any experience installing one. I have been trying to install this thing for 4 hours and had to call a night. Yes, I did read the instructions Begi sent. The upper part of the DP is connected to the Turbo, the problem I'm having is trying to connect the lower half of the DP to the upper. The first problem was the 4" hex bolt. I had to beat it to fit both nipples because the nipples were welded to close to the DP. The problem I having now is with the 1/4" hex lock nut. The nothing wrong with the screw but since the nipples were welded so close to the DP, theres not enough room for the nut to move because it would grid into the DP if I force it to. Greddy guys please help me out, should I take it all off and connect both section of the DP first and then install. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by JerryMouse4U; 12-05-2009 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:41 AM   #2
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I've installed two, the second didn't have the parts that are giving you trouble, it was just an interference fit. IIWY I'd just shove the two together well tomorrow.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:20 PM   #3
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i have my begi dp still in the box

did you end up using this screw, or go without it?

maybe i can save myself some headache
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffrocks_86 View Post
i have my begi dp still in the box

did you end up using this screw, or go without it?

maybe i can save myself some headache
Wanna sell it?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:27 PM   #5
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lol what?

i meant i just received the pipe, and will be installing it tomorrow

i'm just curious if jerry used the cross bolt, or went without it
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:40 PM   #6
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Grind the nipples off,forget using the crossbolt and get a good quality muffler clamp.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:41 PM   #7
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**** no, ditch it. Got to Pep Boys and buy a 2.50" exhaust clamp. The problem i ran into was the cross bolt. Its a shitty design. The two nipple looking things are welded to close to the DP to where you have to hammer the hex bolt in place and then the nut will not secure on the bolt, there's absolutely no room for it to move.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:42 PM   #8
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^ Im with spike.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:47 PM   #9
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yeah, after messing around with that bolt, i already knew that would be a bitch, thanks for posting!
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:54 PM   #10
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No problem, you don't want to be like me and end up with bloody knuckles. Good luck with your project.
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:05 AM   #11
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I installed one on a friends 92 with the bolt no problem. Guess it just fit better.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:31 AM   #12
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i had the same problem installing mine a few days ago. Lucky i installed it at my buddies muffler shop so he just welded a L shape bracket and connect it to the bell housing. Other issue i got was the collector was not expanded enough so i couldnt connect it to the dp. Again, lucky i was at my buddies muffler shop, so we had a pipe xpander. I would cut off that tab from both the dp and the collector pipe, and have a spacer welded on there so that bolt can turn and fit a socket to tighten it. Good Luck!
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:12 AM   #13
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welcome to the suk dude

check out my thread.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t40543/

this is what i ended up doing to get it tight and positioned so i can get it welded.
DSCF0002.jpg

Long story short, i was under my car every single damn day ******* with the bolt, got it welded, havent had a problem since. A lot of people gave good suggestions and if we didnt have a -40 degree winter up here i would have gone with a bandaid however i cannot see my self under my car ******* around with the same bolt in the ice if it came loose again. I dont know why begi made it a 2 piece. Honestly that design imo is crap to save few bucks on shipping... nothing but problems.



Also if you decide to get it welded too do not try to rip the loops off no matter how little material is left holding them. I cut through most of it and tried to rip it off and it took the pipe with it.
DSCF0005.jpg
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:32 PM   #14
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mine went together fine, if you leave the nuts holding it onto the turbo loose you can wiggle the top part of the downpipe to help the nut go onto the rod, plus I cut an open ended spanner down so it would fit into the tiny space you have to work in down there.
It's stayed tight so far, i used a split washer though to help things stay put.
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-NA View Post
It's stayed tight so far, i used a split washer though to help things stay put.


Mine stayed tight too until it came loose

Then i fixed it again, stayed tight again until it came loose again

all 4-5 times on the highway.
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:48 AM   #16
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The bolt is hit or miss. I just jammed the two pieces together snuggly and have had no problems after 2 years. It fit perfectly when lining up to my cat flange like that.
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:43 PM   #17
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We are going to try a larger OD cross bolt guide there. It should give more clearance for the bolt head and nut.
Stephanie
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:18 PM   #18
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Stephanie perhaps having a bigger bolt like 5/16" on the opposite side of where it is now will give you plenty of clearance and this way you can even make a bracket to tie it to the stock tranny just like the stock setup? This way if the bolt does fall out, the pipe will not fall and drag on the ground and make a big mess out of your undercarriage?

2 birds with 1 stone.
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Old 12-17-2009, 08:10 PM   #19
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even if the bolt did fall out there is still enough overlap in the two pieces of tubing and enough resistance from the rest of the exhaust system to prevent the downtube dragging along the road.

moving the locating lugs for the nut & bolt out from the pipe by a few mm would make life a lot easier when it comes to tightening it all up,
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Old 12-18-2009, 01:04 AM   #20
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there is an inch or two of overlap. With the vibrations of the engine that resistance = nothing. There is nothing holding the exhaust in the front. Its held by 1 strap around the cat and thats it. The rest is in the back by the muffler.
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