Begi-S kit is in! After thoughts and questions
 

Finally got the Begi-s kit in on my 99. Overall, the install was not too bad at all and took, pretty much 2 days going at a leisurly pace.(12ish hours of work)
Tapping the pan was easy, The EGR was a pain but it was just time consuming.
I am currently not running any boost since my EMB harness is coming tomorrow. I am also planning on putting on the intercooler and bov tomoroww as well.
I currently have an exhaust leak coming from either the downpipe to catback flange, or the between the two downpipe pieces. (they where kind of hard to tighten.) if its between the dp and catback. i will just use some copper rtv sealant stuff, but otherwise i can try to see how much tighter i can get the two downpipe pieces. Does anyone have any experience with this? tips?

Also, the piece that goes from the maf to turbo doesnt have an ait sensor bung or anything... i currently have the ait(stock) sitting next to the air intake.. i guess this should be ok... but wondering if this is ok and how its supposed to be.

otherwise the car seems to be fine, except for my idle being higher than before, (1500 rpm) for maybe 30-60 seconds. when the car is warmed up, it idles normally.. just wondering what this could be caused from and , if its normal. (my friends mark III supra does this as well)

i am currently being very carefull and not going into boost even with the actuator disconnected. I am hoping to get the management and intercooler in, in the next few days! cant wait!

:giggle:

Good to see another member on the way to boost. Good idea with that actuator disconnected... :giggle:

idea given to me by Mr. Bell.. have to give credit where credit is due lol. :)
btw the kit is great. recommend it greatly!! i think a few bolts on the dp need to be repositioned for easier access though (a mm farther from the pipe to get a ratchet on it!)... but hey, there is probably a reason they are where they are... :)

yea.. i know.. it doesnt take much throttle to get the boost gauge in the, right between boost and vacuum area.. i am being carefull and going easy on the gas!

Even not in boost a turbocharged engine flows more then a NA engine. So that means, its dangerous just not as dangerous as full on boost. I wouldnt do it.

I thought that a piggyback doesn't control any thing out of boost...

This is true.

But I was repeating what I read on this forum a couple of times, so I dunno. :bang:

Btw, if anyone has any maps for emb, or any input on how to help a noob tune emb please check my thread in the emb section! I really need the help!

Wait, your intercooler isn't hooked up?

As in: The air coming out of the compressor isn't actually making it to the intake manifold?

No lol, it is. I am currently running the begi piping from turbo to tb :)

The Xede controls fuel 100% of the time. The zoom3 does not, only under boost.
Stephanie

I would loosen everything and re-tighten it. Not fun..... but.
Can you see any black exhaust gas residue anywhere?

The compressor inlet tube (turbo to MAF) should not have a temp sensor bung. If you need a place to sit the stock sensor, place it next to the air filter, or stick it in the end of the air filter.
Stephanie

thats how it is currently running.

as far as the exhaust leak... i am going to check to see exactly where it is leaking.. if its between the two midpipe sections, can i perhaps just loosen the dp to catback and then tighten the midpipe secions? i also might have a very slight leak between turbo and dp.. you can really hear it at idle, but maybe under partial throttle. we will see in a few hours. i am in class currently :jerkit:

also, just wondering... is there a reason the dp is made of two pieces? can i just weld it together?

The DP comes in halves to make it easier to ship.
It's tough to get the 2 halves to seat together... you think it's fully seated and the bolt is crazy tight, then you go for a drive, everything gets hot, and you realize there was an extra 1/2" they needed to be pushed together.

I tighten the bolt until I can see it start to bend... probably not needed though. I get in there with a 1/4" ratchet and 12" extension.

Cool thanks for the advice... Gives me an idea of how tight I might need to go with it.. :)
When I was tightening it though... There wasn't clearance to get a ratchet on it.. Had to use the wrench..

try a knuckle joint :giggle:

Ok now I have a problem. My engine light came on and my idle is 1500 and then when thw car gets warm it hovers between 1500-1700 rpm.
Other than this the car drives normally... I checked for vacuum leaks and there aren't any. I dis fix the exhaust leak though.. This is bad because the car is kinda awkward to drive with this idle.
My friend is coming in a bit with obd2 scanner to pull the code. I will post it as soon as I can.
Anyone know what's wrong?!

I used a rubber mallet to beat the downpipe together as tight as possible...worked pretty good...at first I tried just tightening the bolt but it stripped out from the tension.

the code that was pulled was P507 which is high idle. I read that it was possible to tighten the idle air screw on the throttle body so i attempted this... i got the idle down to 1100. Still not sure what to do to get it to the correct idle rpm!
Any Ideas??!!

the idle whent down to 1100 as i tightedn the screw and it stayed their. I had to drive the car again, and its back to 1500-1700ish. When I am in gear and push the clutch in, the rpms drop slightly like they are supposed to below 1500, and then they go up to the rpm they stick at.
no idea where to go from here..

A high rpm at idle is usually one of two things. The first is it is running really lean. The second is a vacuum leak somewhere. Of the two, the vacuum like is more likely. So go thru and check all vacuum lines, turbo hose joints, etc...
Stephanie

Really not sure what to do... Don't think its a vacuum leak. At idle my vac gauge shows 20ish pounds of vacuum constantly. At idle my afr is between 14.8-15.2. What can I do? Doesn't this at least rule out a vacuum leak? I have seen threads like this and similar to this over on m.net, but haven't seen any solutions...
Please help!!
Thanks,
Henry

I agree, it does not sound like a vacuum leak. But I would double check everything anyway. I guess another possibility is the TPS is going bad. But that does not happen all that often. It doesn't surge does it?
Stephanie

No the idle is high but pretty stable.. I though I would get a cel code if that went out... Is there a way to check to see if its the tps? The car drives normally besides the idle...

I bypassed the turbo to the intake and idle was still high.
i pulled back the tb, and cleaned it with carb cleaner..
the idle was pretty much good for a few minutes! then whent high again... back to 1500.
I turned the car off, a few mins later started the car, again the idle was good for a minute or so, then whent back to its high point after driving for a bit.
what can this be??? really need the help guys!
thanks,
Henry

With the car warmed up, ac off, try disconnecting the IAC valve. Could be sticking open?

As in unplug the pigtail? Or take it out? This is the bottom of the tb right?

Just unplug the connector -bottom of tb.

When I do this, nothing changes! The idle remains high! Is my IAC bad? I thought when an IAC goes bad, the car surges, not has a high idle! not even sure whats supposed to happen though when the thing is disconnected.. can someone go and try it on their car for me??

I took off the tb again though and tried to take the iac off, I got one screw out and stripped the other screw. I found a screw that i will use to replace the stripped one, but my stripped screw puller tool was too smal :mad:. i sprayed carb cleaner in the tb opening that goes to the iac, and the car idled fine (about 900 rpm) for about 10 mins.. when i started to drive the car, the idle whent high again, and its going from 1600 to 1900 now, just back and forth. this makes it more difficult to drive.. and just even more of a pain in the ass!!!
Help!
what do i do?

Those were my symptoms. Should probably remove the iac and clean or replace it. I bought a used tb and changed out the iac - has been working good since.

A possible hint regarding the 1500RPM surge.
Immediately on startup, 99s usually do jump to a higher than normal RPM, then settle down, eventually to the normal idle. The high RPM (1500) is not that far from norm.
Many turbos produce some additional airflow at idle, once they start spinning. The FM SBB on my 99 will cause the air flow metering to indicate 2x the normal air flow at idle if there is an air leak between the turbo and the intake manifold. This will cause a "pig rich" condition, and cause the engine to blubber out with a closed throttle plate.

Initially the system is in open loop, so the air bleed screw may need to be adjusted slightly. Too much and you may cause the dreaded "idle droup", or an ECU light. The light will usually code out to --The Idle speed is not controllable to within the programmed idle limits. I assume you are using the stock ECU. AMkt ECUs behave very differently, depending on what unit is used. My 99 has the older Link "Piggy", stock injectors, and four additional injectors mounted on the intake manifold.

The air temp sensor will tend to cause a slightly rich setting by the ECU if other inputs allow. Conversely, if the sensor was mounted in say the airflow between an intercooler and the intake manifold, it would result in a higher reading, and might cause the ECU to set for a slightly leaner condition.
(Assuming that you had a way to keep the sensor from popping out under boost.)

The "stock" location of the temp sensor produced a reading that was more or less the same as the temperature at the intake of the air flow sensor.
Mine is mounted in a rubber grommet that gives a bit of isolation from the intake piping between the air flow sensor and the turbo.

Looks like I figured out what was going on. Took apart the iac and hooked up the connector to the car and turned the car on, it made a high pitched noise. figured that wasnt normal... made a temporary duct tape gasket closing of the iac port.
adjusted idle and now idles like a champ. have to give it a bit of gas during really really cold starts for 5-10 seconds... (iac valve allows more air in for higher idle during cold start)
when i did extensive searches for this issue, i saw a few similar cases, but they didnt have solutions..
hopefully someone finds this thread usefull in the future and they dont have to go crazy trying to figure out whats going on! :)

while you have the down pipe assessable I would remove it wield it to one piece and cut off that long retaining bolt loops. I had lots of problems with that hitting the underframe.

The AIT can be installed just past the MAF as long as you make sure that you dont allow any leaks, or else mount it externally next to the Air filter, it just needs to read temperatures going into the MAF.

I don't think I am having problems with the dp any more. Took a bunch of time but I tightened down that long bolt pretty good.. Its in a very difficult area to reach while the down pipe is on the car. If the bolt guides where rotated about 180 degrees it would be MUCH easier to tighten due to clearance issues. If they where also maybe a few more mm away from the pipe, it would have been possible to fit a socket over the bolt, which also would have made it much much easier.
Anyway, today hopefully I can get the intercooler, bov and emb on so I can tune and boost finally!!