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Old 02-10-2009, 04:39 AM   #1
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Default Begi-S kit is in! After thoughts and questions

Finally got the Begi-s kit in on my 99. Overall, the install was not too bad at all and took, pretty much 2 days going at a leisurly pace.(12ish hours of work)
Tapping the pan was easy, The EGR was a pain but it was just time consuming.
I am currently not running any boost since my EMB harness is coming tomorrow. I am also planning on putting on the intercooler and bov tomoroww as well.
I currently have an exhaust leak coming from either the downpipe to catback flange, or the between the two downpipe pieces. (they where kind of hard to tighten.) if its between the dp and catback. i will just use some copper rtv sealant stuff, but otherwise i can try to see how much tighter i can get the two downpipe pieces. Does anyone have any experience with this? tips?

Also, the piece that goes from the maf to turbo doesnt have an ait sensor bung or anything... i currently have the ait(stock) sitting next to the air intake.. i guess this should be ok... but wondering if this is ok and how its supposed to be.

otherwise the car seems to be fine, except for my idle being higher than before, (1500 rpm) for maybe 30-60 seconds. when the car is warmed up, it idles normally.. just wondering what this could be caused from and , if its normal. (my friends mark III supra does this as well)

i am currently being very carefull and not going into boost even with the actuator disconnected. I am hoping to get the management and intercooler in, in the next few days! cant wait!
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:42 AM   #2
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i am currently being very carefull and not going into boost even with the actuator disconnected.

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Old 02-10-2009, 04:57 AM   #3
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Good to see another member on the way to boost. Good idea with that actuator disconnected...
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:39 AM   #4
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Good to see another member on the way to boost. Good idea with that actuator disconnected...
idea given to me by Mr. Bell.. have to give credit where credit is due lol.
btw the kit is great. recommend it greatly!! i think a few bolts on the dp need to be repositioned for easier access though (a mm farther from the pipe to get a ratchet on it!)... but hey, there is probably a reason they are where they are...
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:42 AM   #5
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yea.. i know.. it doesnt take much throttle to get the boost gauge in the, right between boost and vacuum area.. i am being carefull and going easy on the gas!
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:03 AM   #6
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yea.. i know.. it doesnt take much throttle to get the boost gauge in the, right between boost and vacuum area.. i am being carefull and going easy on the gas!
Even not in boost a turbocharged engine flows more then a NA engine. So that means, its dangerous just not as dangerous as full on boost. I wouldnt do it.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:30 PM   #7
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Even not in boost a turbocharged engine flows more then a NA engine. So that means, its dangerous just not as dangerous as full on boost. I wouldnt do it.
I thought that a piggyback doesn't control any thing out of boost...
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:46 PM   #8
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I thought that a piggyback doesn't control any thing out of boost...
This is true.

But I was repeating what I read on this forum a couple of times, so I dunno.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:51 PM   #9
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Btw, if anyone has any maps for emb, or any input on how to help a noob tune emb please check my thread in the emb section! I really need the help!
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:52 PM   #10
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Wait, your intercooler isn't hooked up?

As in: The air coming out of the compressor isn't actually making it to the intake manifold?
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:58 PM   #11
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Wait, your intercooler isn't hooked up?

As in: The air coming out of the compressor isn't actually making it to the intake manifold?
No lol, it is. I am currently running the begi piping from turbo to tb
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:34 PM   #12
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I thought that a piggyback doesn't control any thing out of boost...
The Xede controls fuel 100% of the time. The zoom3 does not, only under boost.
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:37 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Serper3 View Post
I currently have an exhaust leak coming from either the downpipe to catback flange, or the between the two downpipe pieces. (they where kind of hard to tighten.) if its between the dp and catback. i will just use some copper rtv sealant stuff, but otherwise i can try to see how much tighter i can get the two downpipe pieces. Does anyone have any experience with this? tips?
I would loosen everything and re-tighten it. Not fun..... but.
Can you see any black exhaust gas residue anywhere?

Quote:
Also, the piece that goes from the maf to turbo doesnt have an ait sensor bung or anything... i currently have the ait(stock) sitting next to the air intake.. i guess this should be ok... but wondering if this is ok and how its supposed to be.
The compressor inlet tube (turbo to MAF) should not have a temp sensor bung. If you need a place to sit the stock sensor, place it next to the air filter, or stick it in the end of the air filter.
Stephanie
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:46 PM   #14
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The compressor inlet tube (turbo to MAF) should not have a temp sensor bung. If you need a place to sit the stock sensor, place it next to the air filter, or stick it in the end of the air filter.
Stephanie
thats how it is currently running.

as far as the exhaust leak... i am going to check to see exactly where it is leaking.. if its between the two midpipe sections, can i perhaps just loosen the dp to catback and then tighten the midpipe secions? i also might have a very slight leak between turbo and dp.. you can really hear it at idle, but maybe under partial throttle. we will see in a few hours. i am in class currently
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:48 PM   #15
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also, just wondering... is there a reason the dp is made of two pieces? can i just weld it together?
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:10 PM   #16
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The DP comes in halves to make it easier to ship.
It's tough to get the 2 halves to seat together... you think it's fully seated and the bolt is crazy tight, then you go for a drive, everything gets hot, and you realize there was an extra 1/2" they needed to be pushed together.

I tighten the bolt until I can see it start to bend... probably not needed though. I get in there with a 1/4" ratchet and 12" extension.
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:15 PM   #17
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Cool thanks for the advice... Gives me an idea of how tight I might need to go with it..
When I was tightening it though... There wasn't clearance to get a ratchet on it.. Had to use the wrench..
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:35 PM   #18
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try a knuckle joint
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:12 AM   #19
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Ok now I have a problem. My engine light came on and my idle is 1500 and then when thw car gets warm it hovers between 1500-1700 rpm.
Other than this the car drives normally... I checked for vacuum leaks and there aren't any. I dis fix the exhaust leak though.. This is bad because the car is kinda awkward to drive with this idle.
My friend is coming in a bit with obd2 scanner to pull the code. I will post it as soon as I can.
Anyone know what's wrong?!
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:46 AM   #20
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I used a rubber mallet to beat the downpipe together as tight as possible...worked pretty good...at first I tried just tightening the bolt but it stripped out from the tension.
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